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Stock Problems/IssuesDiscussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.
I was in the middle of replacing my clutch, and when I got to removing the slave cylinder the bolt snapped. If anyone can help, I would very much appreciate it. What doesn't look right? 🤔 How do I get it out now?!
Need to think whether you back it out, or drill from the backside so that easy out will draw it forward. If you broke it trying to loosen it I am thinking you try tightening it by going the opposite side.
Would also put some penetrating oil on it and then heat it as well.
A real good home made penetrating oil is 1/2 automatic transmission fluid and 1/2 acetone. Mix it up just before you use it, because the acetone evaporates out after a while.
This mix has worked for me on rusted bolts that nothing else worked on.
From the picture, it looks like a little bit of the bolt is sticking out the other side, could you get ahold of that and screw it all the way through the casting?
Before I tried taking it off I soaked both sides with pb blaster. I have a new slave cylinder so I'll cut off this slave cylinder and see how bad the bolts are stuck inside. The bottom bolt snapped off too.
Well I was able to get the slave cylinder off the bell housing.
Those are the bolts I have to deal with! But now I have another issue because the plug that goes into the slave cylinder snapped. 😭
As the bolt is sticking out the other side, try sawing a channel in the bolt with a hacksaw blade. Wrap duct tape around the hacksaw blade for a handle. Then use a screwdriver socket and try to screw the bolt out. screw to the right. Good luck....
The galvanic action on those bolts is really something. I would think you would have to heat the hell out of which would screw up what is inside. I would drill them out and then retap.
Yeah I thought the toughest job for this project was the subframe and belt housing bolts. Just to be held up by these bolts really puts a damper on it. I hope I'll be able to find that plug part or else this would all be for nothing.
Yes the clutch line to slave cylinder pn is 21526759854, if anyone has to replace theirs. realoem list the part for $15.15, but everywhere else sells its for $60...
Last edited by Mini_Chan; Jul 30, 2017 at 03:16 PM.
You rock. I worked on my clutch this weekend and had the same concerns as you: Subframe bolts being stuck. Thankfully I didn't have to deal with that. I DID have to deal with a broken slave cylinder hose. I'll check out the realoem website. Nice work
Also, I did notice you were using a normal ratcheting wrench. I highly recommend getting a small impact driver. It will often times prevent bolts from snapping and will break *most* corrosion without damaging the hardware.
I would heat it and work it with some pliers first to see if you can get it turning out.
Otherwise you need to VERY carefully drill it out slowly and break it out and then retap the hole. Again CAREFUL as this is part of the trans case so you don't want to ruin it.
Weld nuts on the remaining metal of the bolts. The heat will help break the bond between the broken bolt and the housing, then just use a socket and remove.
+1 on the previous posts. EZ-outs can actually swell out the bolt when you hammer the EZ-out into the drilled hole. This can make the bolt even tighter and harder to remove.
Does realoem actually sell parts? Or do they just list the price? I'd much rather pay the $15 than the $71 I've found it for elsewhere.
Yea they don't sell parts, and the prices they list is never close to what the dealers sell them for.
As for the bolts I don't have access to a welder, so I can take off the bell housing and try heating up the bolts and see if that will help loosen the rust.
So I took off the bell housing yesterday to try to take off those bolts. Everything was good and as I was prepping it for drilling. Then this happened...
I was using a hammmer and nail to make a center hole for the drill. I wasn't even hitting it that hard and it broke off It looks like I'll need to bring it to a shop to get it welded back together and while they are at it maybe they can take out those studs for me too
I feel your pain, brother, the exact same thing happened to me. I assume you got this figured and are back to motoring but in case this project is ongoing; I just googled "welding" for the city I live in and called the first guy that came up, asked if he could weld cast aluminum(not everyone can). He got me going for $45 and back to work in less than an hour.
in another post on here , think it was the one that said can this be welded , someone put up a site that has replacement steel bracket for repair of this area.
and if you do weld it back together think of using studs instead of bolts.
This looks like what I typically deal with! Hope you got back on the road without too many more issues
Originally Posted by megaDan
*snip*
Also, I did notice you were using a normal ratcheting wrench. I highly recommend getting a small impact driver. It will often times prevent bolts from snapping and will break *most* corrosion without damaging the hardware.
*snip*
I read this post back when you posted it. I snapped off the pinch collar bolt on my passenger side steering knuckle yesterday with an impact wrench. Bastard did NOT want to come out.
Sorry for your troubles, that sucks. Later youll have to deal with air in your clutch cylinder.. be prepared for another pita day of clutch line bleeding lol.