so a few weeks ago my r53 was cutting in and out sucking in air and giving me boost and I tested the bypass valve by keeping it open with zip ties but still could notice it. Then it all worked great for a week then today after getting off the freeway no boost again and now rattle and grinding,
i domt understand I just did a huge service including the supercharger oil and the old oil was still plenty amount in there so it wasn't leaking but why the grind and failure now...I can't seem to find the solution now and don't have thousands to through at it.

thanks

 

Moving this to the Stock Problems/Issues section.

How many miles on the car? You are sure that the belt is tight and that the tensioner is good? What about the crank pulley?

Were there any electrical issues when you had no boost?

 

Sounds like either a bad gear in the supercharger internals or maybe the fluid leaked out and you cannot see it at the point? I would also first check that belt and tensioner. But it sounds like something went wrong with the oil change.

 

140,000 miles
will check what you mentioned just funny that before it was kind of random
I did put a new belt on as well so that is good
No issues of electric problems just would sound like the supercharger was not there like a base no grinding or anything until now

i did the service 6 months ago and had been just fine so I don't think it's something I did.

 

With that mileage, I would not be surprised if the sc is shot. Some cars have the sc go around 100k while others are still going with 175k, you just never know.

 

so got home and recorded a video quick will upload shortly and talking to my dad he believes its the valves as in the video the noise is not coming from the supercharger and if it was the sc wouldnt my car be overheating and just drove 70 for 25mins home and no overheating just real slow accleration almost none so now its more like my entire motor is probably shot cause it would run if the timing chain was broken..

Guess a mini is the car to have a daily and your only car when your 19

 

also could it be just the chain tensioner itself but i mean no power coming from the engine after 2500rpm probably some other stuff

 

Did you get codes during any of this?

Off the top of my head, from what you've described, it almost seems like a crank pulley that is on the way out, pull the pass. fender liner and inspect it, they've even been known to re-fuse themselves and be out of balance.

 

If by codes you mean check engine lights....no codes at all which is odd I thought to.

and I will inspect that crank pulley but the only thing that concerns me is why have am having the lack of power and near absolute no air throw the supercharger..

i seem to have nearly these simptoms unfortunately

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=PI5bBV0ZFek

 

Lack of power and no boost can absolutely be a crank pulley issue, while normally you'll get a code or two.
OEM crank pulleys fail due to the rubber connecting the inner hub to the actual pulley, separating, causing either no rotation or mismatched rotation of the pulley and belt.

 

Ok and you are probably correct and hopefully it's not something even more major but would make sense since it sounds like the timing chain is rattling.

now is there a good way to check this without taking it off I will do some research now with what I can do

and thanks a lot

 

Is it the harmonic balancer that is bad or is mine what's behind it in the crank case that drives the timing chain, if it's the inner one I can't seem to find any way possible to get to it with out pulling the engine and taking it all apart

 

Have the valve cover off and the chain is tight so not sure what that rattle is in that area my dad thinks there's a bad valve any ideas on what I can look for

i looked at the harmonic balance while giving the car some gas and twitching the throttle and doesn't spin wrong and don't have a puller to get it off and inspect it but is driving the belt normal

 

While chain tensioners will go bad, they won't cause the problems you're experiencing.
To rule out (or prove) any kind of issues with the valves, you'll have to do a compression test.
But honestly you'd probably be getting a misfire also.
Have you by chance tried an automotive stethoscope to pin point the noises?
You can also pull the belt to do a physical check of the S/C pulley for any unusual play in the front bearing.

 

I have tried using a long screw driver to locate the noise but no luck yet I will take the belt off and check for anything that's loose and I may take it to have a local guy listen at it see what they think

 

Ok I have solved it guy told me to remove belt and noise went away started wiggling things and the sc pulley was loose and I pulled it right off... The bolt holding it on is gone...WHAT!!!

anywhere i can get just the stuff that holds the pulley on



Now my only worry is did I harm anything driving it like this for about 30mins

 

ok never mind there is no bolt holding it on it looks like the actual pulley is stripped and no longer on tight to the shaft

 

Describe the pulley, does it have any "screw holes" around the outer edge? The factory pulley is pressed on, there should be no bolt holding it on. The hole in the shaft has a round plastic clip that threads in. If the pulley has screw holes, you have an aftermarket pulley and it has some loose.

Below is a video from Mod Mini that shows removal replacement.

 

Besides any damage to the S/C input shaft itself, the only other real damage would be from overheating, if that didn't happen, you're probably fine.

 

yes that is what im worried about no overheating but the shaft is slightly grooved at least you can kind of feel it not major though..

I did see that video and that why im surpised by how it could of come off and so is my best option order a new one and put that on good...



quick side not any recomendations to help keep my valves clean thankfully it wasnt these.

 

and the pulley is the same just a WMW 17%

 

You will get pros and cons on the size of pulley to put on. With a 17 you get more heat, with 15 less heat, it is more driving style.

Also, just to make sure, you are aware that the water pump is driven off the supercharger? Check your oil and antifreeze. Oil in water or water in oil (the oil cap will have chocolate milkshake goo) means the car got hot and you could have a warped head.

 

Ok so I'm going to go with a new pulley any brands they all seem to be around the $100 price.. that would be a good investment...I've got Alta stuff in the car so maybe get that one to match but maybe there's something better for the same money.

thanks for the help guys

 

and anyone know what the tolerances on the input shaft are since now it has been worn I want to make sure a pulley is going to be able to get tight onto the shaft.

Or else big problem probably sc rebuild

 

Did you already remove the OEM SC Pulley ? THAT is the trick to this mod.

Don't want to use ANY prying of any kind to remove it. Doing so will separate the internal locking C-ring from the spline, and if that happens you'll typically need to purchase new SC.

If by chance there's a shop in your area who has done these before, best to sub this out to them....Cant find one... Seek out your area/regional MINI Club and ask.

As far as brand goes, Way Motor Works.

Differences between the 15% and 17% SCP is that when in top gear, you will rarely if ever need to down shift from 6th to 5th to pass cars on freeway.... Have had a 17% SCP on my 03' since day 1 and now at 231K miles with having had two supercharger services performed and 3rd water pump in the interim.