2004 Automatic will not turn over!
#1
2004 Automatic will not turn over!
Okay okay, I know I'm about to get blasted with comments saying you should have just searched the internet because there are hundreds of threads about this. Ive looked through them all, hoping I won't have to get this thing towed to a mini dealer.
Work started off replacing both front wheel bearings. Then both front Axel's. Since all the transmission fluid exited, I refilled it. In order to do that I had to take the battery out along with the brainbox next to it. Took the battery out first then the brain, then put the brain back in and then reconnected the battery. Car will not start.
Put the key in and it dings so it's not immobilized( or so I hope), then all the dash lights come on. Fuel pump runs. Hear some other stuff happening under the hood as well. Checked the ignition switch thinking it would be simple, contacts are all good. Reset the ECU via dash (hopefully not a bad thing). Still nothing.
Pulled a working battery with the same cranking amps and it does the same thing. I have not checked the starter and if I did I would need a little bit of guidance. Just a little frustrated! I've read about the immobilizer brain can go bad if the battery goes down or I'm sure if the ECU gets disconnected and it needs to be resynced, and of course only a mini dealer can do it.
Work started off replacing both front wheel bearings. Then both front Axel's. Since all the transmission fluid exited, I refilled it. In order to do that I had to take the battery out along with the brainbox next to it. Took the battery out first then the brain, then put the brain back in and then reconnected the battery. Car will not start.
Put the key in and it dings so it's not immobilized( or so I hope), then all the dash lights come on. Fuel pump runs. Hear some other stuff happening under the hood as well. Checked the ignition switch thinking it would be simple, contacts are all good. Reset the ECU via dash (hopefully not a bad thing). Still nothing.
Pulled a working battery with the same cranking amps and it does the same thing. I have not checked the starter and if I did I would need a little bit of guidance. Just a little frustrated! I've read about the immobilizer brain can go bad if the battery goes down or I'm sure if the ECU gets disconnected and it needs to be resynced, and of course only a mini dealer can do it.
#2
#3
#4
Do not confuse the ability to turn the key with an electronic interlocking relay from the ignition switch to the starter, or to the engine. Below is a thread that details the relays and fuses. I know that R1 relay controls the power to the engine. If the grounds are tight and you have good voltage, I am still thinking that a control circuit is loose.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...nd-wiring.html
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...nd-wiring.html
#5
Okay I just checked and double checked all the fuses in and out of the car. Found a blown cigarette lighter fuse and replaced that. The relay you mentioned seemed alright, I swapped it with a known working one. Still nada. I checked the battery voltage and it was sitting at 12.00v it's on the charger now. What do you mean by loose connection? Are there certain ones that I should look for? Thank you for replying and helping me out.
#6
Would assume some electrical gurus will chime in but there are different types of relays. In some instances a relay connects a high amp circuit (power), such as the starter, by using a low amp circuit (control) to "close" the heavy amp switch. I am assuming the R1 relay has several pins and therefore there are several functions that most occur before the heavy amp/power switch will close. You changed relays but I assume did not test to see if the control circuits were functioning correctly.
At this point I would test to see if the starter solenoid is getting voltage. This is a two person job and you need to have somebody turn the key while you are testing the starter. The issue is that the Mini starter is in one tight spot. You would also need to check the main power connection to the starter (the thicker wire) to see if there has been any corrosion. Here is a link to a starter video.
The car worked before you did any work. You worked on the transmission and disconnected the battery (usually all you need to do is remove the ground/negative strap at the battery). Logically the issue is at one of these two areas.
At this point I would test to see if the starter solenoid is getting voltage. This is a two person job and you need to have somebody turn the key while you are testing the starter. The issue is that the Mini starter is in one tight spot. You would also need to check the main power connection to the starter (the thicker wire) to see if there has been any corrosion. Here is a link to a starter video.
The car worked before you did any work. You worked on the transmission and disconnected the battery (usually all you need to do is remove the ground/negative strap at the battery). Logically the issue is at one of these two areas.
#7
Trending Topics
#9
Wow after reading that glad it was something simple, i was going to say check the plugs and the ignition switch.
__________________
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172