I replaced the LCA bushings on my 2006 MCS JCW. I had the subframe out. I reassembled everything and now there is no power steering, really heavy. I checked the connections and cleaned them. Still nothing. I reset the ECU as I also did the transmission bushing and had it out of the car. I checked fuse F39, looked fine but swapped it out anyways. Fluid is topped off as i spilled out what was in the reservoir. I have no idea what is going on.
Don't think this would affect it but I ran the car for 30 seconds with the serpentine belt not tensioned. It worked fine before...
Any thoughts?

 

Is there a way to see if the pump is getting power?

 

Check the power steering pump plug at the top , you might have bumped it.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...rt-number.html

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...mp-wiring.html

 

I unplugged it, cleaned it and reconnected. I could have possibly bent a pin while plugging it in, will check but i doubt it.

 

If I have not mistaken, there are three electric connections for the power steering when you remove the subframe.

One is the cooling fan for it. The other is the power steering control module, and the third is the two contact plug just for the pump motor power. The last one has no locking mechanism so you have to make sure you firmly seat it.

 

I took a voltmeter to the pump inputs. 14v on the power in X13441 and 2v on the alternator signal x6975, pin 2 yellow wire.

Things i have read lead me to believe this should be 12V.
Is this correct? Voltages taken when engine is on.

 

Upon assuming that the alternator signal should be 12 v i shorted it with the positive on x13441 and still nothing. Im starting to think my pump is toast.

 

Should be around 12-14v. Are you in Canada? They had a recall but only goes to 2005.

I would retrace all the lines to make sure everything is connected correctly, then go for swapping the pump:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ring-pump.html

 

I'm a idiot and bent pin 2 in the 3 pin plug. The 2 volts were probably caused by a drained battery. After re charging the battery pin 2 was up to 14v. I pulled the pump out, straightened the pin and reassembled. Everything seemed to work fine.

Now the pump stays on after the car is off. I must have dislodged some of the carbon dust inside the pump and shorted the circuit boards. Will attempt to take it appart and clean it. If that doesn't work i'll have to order a new pump.

What is everyones take on the Dorman remanufactured pumps?

 

It happens to the best of us, glad you rechecked that. Something did not sound right. I would do the fan at the same time if you can.

If you want a lower cost and good pump AAE has pumps they rebuild in the US and they have no core charge as of now. Good price. Other than that people use the Genuine or original ZF units the most.

https://www.ecstuning.com/News/MINI_...g_Pumps_19695/

 

I opened up the pump and cleaned it with compressed air and lots of electrical cleaner. Tons of dust came out. The pump works now.

 

Nice! Any notes or pics of the procedure?

 

Many times "operator error" is the issue. Couple threads here lately on a starter issue and turned out the engine ground strap was not connected.

Its threads like this that make NAM so good. We have been talking about a cross reference system of key issues/problems. This would be in addition to the search function and hopefully point quicker to the right direction.

Thanks to the OP for taking the time to get and stay involved!!!!