Check Engine Light help
Thread Starter
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1st Gear
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 25
Likes: 1
From: San Diego, CA
Check Engine Light help
Hi All,
I'm brand new to the forum, please forgive me if I'm too soon posting, or breaching some other etiquette...
Backstory:
We bought a 2010 Cooper S last week. First day home, it crapped out, and wouldn't re-start. The guy I bought it from had given a 3 month warranty, and he picked it up same day to bring it to a shop. My gut feeling was the fuel pump, turned out I was right. So it spent a long weekend, and a couple more days in his chosen shop.
Today:
We finally got it back with a brand new fuel pump and apparently running great (per my SO)
She put about 60 miles on it just tooling about, and it ran great. I drove it after work, and I agreed. But after a while the yellow "Full engine power no longer available" light came on. Looks like a Check Engine light to me, but I'm reading from the manual.
The car was running fine, still is, and it has full power, so I don't know what the light is saying.
I plugged in my OBDII reader and there are no codes. I also checked the "Check Control" function, no warnings there either.
(I did experience a similar temporary issue some years back with my older Jag, when it went into "limp" mode. It reset itself overnight and never came back again)
Anyone have an idea what might be going on? Thanks in advance for all help...
John
I'm brand new to the forum, please forgive me if I'm too soon posting, or breaching some other etiquette...
Backstory:
We bought a 2010 Cooper S last week. First day home, it crapped out, and wouldn't re-start. The guy I bought it from had given a 3 month warranty, and he picked it up same day to bring it to a shop. My gut feeling was the fuel pump, turned out I was right. So it spent a long weekend, and a couple more days in his chosen shop.
Today:
We finally got it back with a brand new fuel pump and apparently running great (per my SO)
She put about 60 miles on it just tooling about, and it ran great. I drove it after work, and I agreed. But after a while the yellow "Full engine power no longer available" light came on. Looks like a Check Engine light to me, but I'm reading from the manual.
The car was running fine, still is, and it has full power, so I don't know what the light is saying.
I plugged in my OBDII reader and there are no codes. I also checked the "Check Control" function, no warnings there either.
(I did experience a similar temporary issue some years back with my older Jag, when it went into "limp" mode. It reset itself overnight and never came back again)
Anyone have an idea what might be going on? Thanks in advance for all help...
John
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Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 23
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From: Socal, Ventura County
Thread Starter
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1st Gear
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 25
Likes: 1
From: San Diego, CA
OK so after she drove it a couple more days back n forth to work, that irritating half-CEL went off.
Today, I drove it again, and after one reasonably-spirited traffic light sprint without sport mode, and not going above 5k rpm, that fn light came back on. Still no power reduction or limp mode, checked the codes with my ODB II reader again, and still nothing.
I'm at a loss for now.
Today, I drove it again, and after one reasonably-spirited traffic light sprint without sport mode, and not going above 5k rpm, that fn light came back on. Still no power reduction or limp mode, checked the codes with my ODB II reader again, and still nothing.
I'm at a loss for now.
Thread Starter
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1st Gear
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 25
Likes: 1
From: San Diego, CA
Sorry, we just got the car a couple of weeks ago. Don't have much of a service history, just a Carfax report that doesn't tell anything.
Each time the half-CEL comes on, I scan for codes and get nothing. The real CEL on the speedo isn't on, so it makes sense there are no codes.
What I've found since my other half has been driving it daily to work, is that the half-CEL goes off after a gentle drive cycle, maybe 50 miles or so, but it will come back on when it's gunned only for a few seconds, like when entering the freeway into fast traffic.
Despite the light, it doesn't appear to be in "half-power" or "limp mode" (not the way I've experienced with my Jag anyway), so I'm not sweating it, but it seems to be hinting at some issue, maybe the turbo?
The car has 102k miles, and I bought it from a cheap used-car lot, where I suspect it had been traded in due to issues they couldn't figure out with the "half-CEL".
The more I've read about it, the more I'm leaning towards the Diverter Valve (wastegate?), so for the minimal effort and cost, I'm going to change it (thanks for the link CK, it led me to other links that sent me where I am now).
Like all my other vehicles, I'll get this figured out. I always do. It's just always so much easier with the help of a forum.... Thanks guys
Each time the half-CEL comes on, I scan for codes and get nothing. The real CEL on the speedo isn't on, so it makes sense there are no codes.
What I've found since my other half has been driving it daily to work, is that the half-CEL goes off after a gentle drive cycle, maybe 50 miles or so, but it will come back on when it's gunned only for a few seconds, like when entering the freeway into fast traffic.
Despite the light, it doesn't appear to be in "half-power" or "limp mode" (not the way I've experienced with my Jag anyway), so I'm not sweating it, but it seems to be hinting at some issue, maybe the turbo?
The car has 102k miles, and I bought it from a cheap used-car lot, where I suspect it had been traded in due to issues they couldn't figure out with the "half-CEL".
The more I've read about it, the more I'm leaning towards the Diverter Valve (wastegate?), so for the minimal effort and cost, I'm going to change it (thanks for the link CK, it led me to other links that sent me where I am now).
Like all my other vehicles, I'll get this figured out. I always do. It's just always so much easier with the help of a forum.... Thanks guys
3rd Gear
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 178
Likes: 7
From: Walden, NY
I had a similar thing, but it was during track days. OBD reader showed no codes, needed to have the dealer scan with their tool. It turned out it was the turbo and the problem only surfaced with extended periods of driving.
Thread Starter
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1st Gear
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 25
Likes: 1
From: San Diego, CA
OK so, I ordered the GFB DV+ diverter valve and installed it today. I haven't given it a push yet, but the signs were encouraging when I pulled the original DV.
The rubber seal on the end of the piston and the yellow diaphragm inside were totally shot, meaning that the replacement was definitely necessary.
Cool down first (me, not the car), then we'll go for a spin after dinner and see how it behaves now, but I'm very confident it'll be much better.
And... At the same time, I learned something about myself! It always seems to take me some time to "bond" with a new vehicle. That bonding period seems to be however long it takes until I have to do my first significant repair to whatever vehicle it is... Yup... this was it.
The rubber seal on the end of the piston and the yellow diaphragm inside were totally shot, meaning that the replacement was definitely necessary.
Cool down first (me, not the car), then we'll go for a spin after dinner and see how it behaves now, but I'm very confident it'll be much better.
And... At the same time, I learned something about myself! It always seems to take me some time to "bond" with a new vehicle. That bonding period seems to be however long it takes until I have to do my first significant repair to whatever vehicle it is... Yup... this was it.
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Thread Starter
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1st Gear
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 25
Likes: 1
From: San Diego, CA
I don't at the moment, but they're lying at the bottom of an empty trash can in the garage. I'm all done for the day, but I'll grab some pics later and post them.
The replacement part I installed is
I took it for a test drive, and the difference is night and day. How much better than a stock replacement, I don't know, but my brain is telling me it's sharper in response.
The removal/install was a bit fiddly, probably because it's the first I've ever done on this engine, but it wasn't too bad once I figured out the best combination of tools to use.
The replacement part I installed is
I took it for a test drive, and the difference is night and day. How much better than a stock replacement, I don't know, but my brain is telling me it's sharper in response.
The removal/install was a bit fiddly, probably because it's the first I've ever done on this engine, but it wasn't too bad once I figured out the best combination of tools to use.