Walnut Blasting!
Walnut Blasting!
So the time has come where the carbon build up is just to much for my R56.
Hard start and sometimes will not start,multi misfire codes. I have sea foamed her used a system called performance plus changed spark plug and coils. Walnut blasting is my last option but the dealer wants 600$+ for the service. Oh they also want to diagnose the problem im sure that comes with a nice charge
So does anyone know who sells a good kit for a decent price? Bavauto has one for under 300$. or should I piece the parts separately?
Hard start and sometimes will not start,multi misfire codes. I have sea foamed her used a system called performance plus changed spark plug and coils. Walnut blasting is my last option but the dealer wants 600$+ for the service. Oh they also want to diagnose the problem im sure that comes with a nice charge
So does anyone know who sells a good kit for a decent price? Bavauto has one for under 300$. or should I piece the parts separately?
for my sake I hope not I don't even think I can afford the part. What are the normal symptoms of the HPFP going? Cold start misfires from what I have read are carbon build up. The car runs fine once its warmed up
yea if you fall under the extended warranty you should be good, dealership will usually want to see the code for low fuel rail pressure. but if you can verify pressure is low with torque/dash command/etc. it would probably be worth it to leave it with them over night and tell them to diagnose it on a cold start
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You can also just do it with carb cleaner and a few brushes and picks. Done it twice manually. This last time just now and I also did the exhaust ports. I think there's a thread here somewhere. It's really simple. You remove the intake manifold. Close the valves manually for a port and clean. Repeat until all four or eight are done. The cleaning part took me a day. Cost about $20-$30. Above is a cleaned intake.
FYI: The HPFP warranty expires on the 10 anniversary of the In-Service date. Symptoms really sound like the pump, rather than coked valves.
Have you taken off the intake manifold for an valve inspection?
With a good blaster, either walnut shell or soda, cleaning a port should take no more than a few minutes.
Have you taken off the intake manifold for an valve inspection?
With a good blaster, either walnut shell or soda, cleaning a port should take no more than a few minutes.
Yes, with the blaster its quick. Talking the intake off and set up takes much longer but the actual cleaning is super quick with the baster.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-cleaning.html
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-cleaning.html
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MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
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Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
I wouldn't say super quick. I blasted and blasted for a couple hours but just couldn't seem to get the right angles to get all of it off. I got most of it, then gave up on the rest and put the car back together.
Thanks for all the info. I have torque but I have no idea how to check the fuel pressure. I am not getting any codes for fuel. Just misfire codes from a cold start ( I have newer coils and plugs). besides getting a code for the fuel rail is there any other signs of the pump going bad?
Add gauge for fuel rail pressure.
With key on engine off, low pressure pump should show 65-70psi on gauge
Start engine. Pressure should jump to 1000+psi...bad pump on cold start will taking a while to build pressure engine will flutter , but run, on 100psi.
With key on engine off, low pressure pump should show 65-70psi on gauge
Start engine. Pressure should jump to 1000+psi...bad pump on cold start will taking a while to build pressure engine will flutter , but run, on 100psi.
I started it this morning and it was 52 degrees outside. keys in the ignition 17.8 and start up was 643 I think its safe to assume its the pump at this point. But how do I fight them when they tell me its carbon build up?
In tank pump, looks like...not covered, but also not 1000$+
Did you give it plenty of time to run before starting? You Shouldn't need to, it should prime as soon as you unlock/open door but maybe keep an eye on it next few cold starts
Did you give it plenty of time to run before starting? You Shouldn't need to, it should prime as soon as you unlock/open door but maybe keep an eye on it next few cold starts
Last edited by randeez; Jun 1, 2017 at 08:12 AM.
The in tank(low pressure) pump pressurizes the fuel rail. There's probably some fitting to check just the line before the high pressure pump on the side of the head.
To get an accurate reading from the rail for low pressure pump you need to let car sit for a few hours, residual reading from high pressure will remain on rail
To get an accurate reading from the rail for low pressure pump you need to let car sit for a few hours, residual reading from high pressure will remain on rail
How old is your MINI?
for android obd2 bluetooth adapter is like $15 elm327 iirc works well, I've been using mine for over a year with little issue. the aap is torque pro - its $5, can be used on multiple devices as long as they share the same google account.
iphone i think needs to use wifi obd2 adapter, app same price.
there is also "Carly" which has a little more indepth diagnostics, some coding, etc but the adapter is $50+ and the app is $50+
iphone i think needs to use wifi obd2 adapter, app same price.
there is also "Carly" which has a little more indepth diagnostics, some coding, etc but the adapter is $50+ and the app is $50+
for android obd2 bluetooth adapter is like $15 elm327 iirc works well, I've been using mine for over a year with little issue. the aap is torque pro - its $5, can be used on multiple devices as long as they share the same google account.
iphone i think needs to use wifi obd2 adapter, app same price.
there is also "Carly" which has a little more indepth diagnostics, some coding, etc but the adapter is $50+ and the app is $50+
iphone i think needs to use wifi obd2 adapter, app same price.
there is also "Carly" which has a little more indepth diagnostics, some coding, etc but the adapter is $50+ and the app is $50+
Hi every one we have same issue with all cars with direct injection carbon build up so bad and it took us hours to clean it, but recently we start using a brand new product that recently released in the U.S. market it's german made for the carbon build up on the valves without the mess of the walnut shell and without taking the intake manifold out and job was done in 2 hours with great results its called carbon x from German company bluechem you can find the product on there local website GoAutoProfi.com and it cost us shipped less than $90 and it did 2 cars, that a life saver product...
Really the getting at the intakes in a R56 is not that hard. Get rid of the noise maker and half the work is done. I'd say less than one hour to take the intake off on mine. Spend a few hours cleaning with carb cleaner, toothbrush and you're done. The thing is, it's a job that needs to be done every few years to keep from having to spend days cleaning. Just my opinion.






