Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S(R56), and Cabrio (R57).

Walnut Blasting!

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Old May 30, 2017 | 11:01 AM
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Walnut Blasting!

So the time has come where the carbon build up is just to much for my R56.
Hard start and sometimes will not start,multi misfire codes. I have sea foamed her used a system called performance plus changed spark plug and coils. Walnut blasting is my last option but the dealer wants 600$+ for the service. Oh they also want to diagnose the problem im sure that comes with a nice charge

So does anyone know who sells a good kit for a decent price? Bavauto has one for under 300$. or should I piece the parts separately?
 
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Old May 30, 2017 | 11:17 AM
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https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ting-time.html
 
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Old May 30, 2017 | 11:27 AM
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Thanks for the link. what did you do about the vacuum hose?
 
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Old May 30, 2017 | 11:59 AM
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while im sure walnut blasting is probably necessary, sounds like it could also be high pressure fuel pump going out
 
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Old May 30, 2017 | 12:33 PM
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for my sake I hope not I don't even think I can afford the part. What are the normal symptoms of the HPFP going? Cold start misfires from what I have read are carbon build up. The car runs fine once its warmed up
 
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Old May 30, 2017 | 12:47 PM
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@randeez I checked online but i'm going to call to confirm. Mini has extended a warranty for the HPFP for the N14 engine 10yrs 120k miles.
 
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Old May 30, 2017 | 01:23 PM
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yea if you fall under the extended warranty you should be good, dealership will usually want to see the code for low fuel rail pressure. but if you can verify pressure is low with torque/dash command/etc. it would probably be worth it to leave it with them over night and tell them to diagnose it on a cold start
 
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Old May 30, 2017 | 04:53 PM
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You can also just do it with carb cleaner and a few brushes and picks. Done it twice manually. This last time just now and I also did the exhaust ports. I think there's a thread here somewhere. It's really simple. You remove the intake manifold. Close the valves manually for a port and clean. Repeat until all four or eight are done. The cleaning part took me a day. Cost about $20-$30. Above is a cleaned intake.
 
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Old May 31, 2017 | 04:21 AM
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FYI: The HPFP warranty expires on the 10 anniversary of the In-Service date. Symptoms really sound like the pump, rather than coked valves.

Have you taken off the intake manifold for an valve inspection?

With a good blaster, either walnut shell or soda, cleaning a port should take no more than a few minutes.
 
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Old May 31, 2017 | 08:51 AM
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Yes, with the blaster its quick. Talking the intake off and set up takes much longer but the actual cleaning is super quick with the baster.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-cleaning.html
 
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Old May 31, 2017 | 10:25 AM
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I wouldn't say super quick. I blasted and blasted for a couple hours but just couldn't seem to get the right angles to get all of it off. I got most of it, then gave up on the rest and put the car back together.
 
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Old May 31, 2017 | 10:50 AM
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Thanks for all the info. I have torque but I have no idea how to check the fuel pressure. I am not getting any codes for fuel. Just misfire codes from a cold start ( I have newer coils and plugs). besides getting a code for the fuel rail is there any other signs of the pump going bad?
 
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Old May 31, 2017 | 10:56 AM
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Add gauge for fuel rail pressure.
With key on engine off, low pressure pump should show 65-70psi on gauge
Start engine. Pressure should jump to 1000+psi...bad pump on cold start will taking a while to build pressure engine will flutter , but run, on 100psi.
 
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Old May 31, 2017 | 01:41 PM
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713.6 is start up 82.7 was keys in.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2017 | 07:25 AM
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I started it this morning and it was 52 degrees outside. keys in the ignition 17.8 and start up was 643 I think its safe to assume its the pump at this point. But how do I fight them when they tell me its carbon build up?
 
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Old Jun 1, 2017 | 07:52 AM
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In tank pump, looks like...not covered, but also not 1000$+

Did you give it plenty of time to run before starting? You Shouldn't need to, it should prime as soon as you unlock/open door but maybe keep an eye on it next few cold starts
 

Last edited by randeez; Jun 1, 2017 at 08:12 AM.
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Old Jun 1, 2017 | 08:23 AM
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So I should check the fuel pressure from just the tank pump next?
 
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Old Jun 1, 2017 | 09:11 AM
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The in tank(low pressure) pump pressurizes the fuel rail. There's probably some fitting to check just the line before the high pressure pump on the side of the head.
To get an accurate reading from the rail for low pressure pump you need to let car sit for a few hours, residual reading from high pressure will remain on rail
 
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Old Jun 1, 2017 | 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by YeahDudeGuy
I started it this morning and it was 52 degrees outside. keys in the ignition 17.8 and start up was 643 I think its safe to assume its the pump at this point. But how do I fight them when they tell me its carbon build up?
How old is your MINI?
 
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Old Jun 2, 2017 | 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by YeahDudeGuy
713.6 is start up 82.7 was keys in.
What does one need for this app to work? Is it on a phone or some other device?
 
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Old Jun 2, 2017 | 04:50 PM
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for android obd2 bluetooth adapter is like $15 elm327 iirc works well, I've been using mine for over a year with little issue. the aap is torque pro - its $5, can be used on multiple devices as long as they share the same google account.

iphone i think needs to use wifi obd2 adapter, app same price.

there is also "Carly" which has a little more indepth diagnostics, some coding, etc but the adapter is $50+ and the app is $50+
 
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Old Jun 2, 2017 | 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by randeez
for android obd2 bluetooth adapter is like $15 elm327 iirc works well, I've been using mine for over a year with little issue. the aap is torque pro - its $5, can be used on multiple devices as long as they share the same google account.

iphone i think needs to use wifi obd2 adapter, app same price.

there is also "Carly" which has a little more indepth diagnostics, some coding, etc but the adapter is $50+ and the app is $50+
Thanks, good to know!
 
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Old Jun 18, 2017 | 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by samsports
Hi every one we have same issue with all cars with direct injection carbon build up so bad and it took us hours to clean it, but recently we start using a brand new product that recently released in the U.S. market it's german made for the carbon build up on the valves without the mess of the walnut shell and without taking the intake manifold out and job was done in 2 hours with great results its called carbon x from German company bluechem you can find the product on there local website GoAutoProfi.com and it cost us shipped less than $90 and it did 2 cars, that a life saver product...
How is it applied? The only way any product will clean a direct injection engine port is if the product can somehow be applied to the port. Can't be done through fuel so that to me leaves only the air intake system.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2017 | 02:08 PM
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Really the getting at the intakes in a R56 is not that hard. Get rid of the noise maker and half the work is done. I'd say less than one hour to take the intake off on mine. Spend a few hours cleaning with carb cleaner, toothbrush and you're done. The thing is, it's a job that needs to be done every few years to keep from having to spend days cleaning. Just my opinion.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2017 | 05:39 AM
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Thanks for the info.
 
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