Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.

No spark after clutch job...best guesses?

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Old Apr 20, 2017 | 01:32 PM
  #1  
bdubya's Avatar
bdubya
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No spark after clutch job...best guesses?

Nearing the end of a clutch replacement, etc. on my R53 ('04), so I had the radiator support off and the subframe down. Got all the working bits back together, fluids topped, battery charged, and went to turn it over. Engine cranks, but no start. Spark tester shows no spark. At this point, I discover that my cheap scanner (Innova 3100abs) that I use on a Ford and a Volvo won't connect to the Mini. So while I'm deciding which one to order and waiting for it to arrive, does anybody have any suggestions for obvious things I might have failed to connect (or connected wrong) while reassembling the car? I verified that the crankshaft position sensor is connected tight, but can't think of anything else. Would love to hear any suggestions for other things I should check that might cause this.

One thought I had, but I doubt it's the issue, is that the steering wheel got spun an unknown number of times while the linkage was disconnected (unlocked it while trying to reconnect the linkage, and one of the kids got in the car before I reconnected it). The steering angle sensor wouldn't affect the ignition, right?
 
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Old Apr 20, 2017 | 10:00 PM
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Minnie.the.Moocher
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From: earth PNW
Negative battery cable, ground connection, etc.?
 
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Old Apr 21, 2017 | 02:20 PM
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SRICHS
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From: Dupage County, IL
do you have a noid light? check for fuel injector pulses.. EWS controls fuel and spark.. could be as simple as a fuse..
 
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Old May 1, 2017 | 06:35 PM
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bdubya
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Sorry I let this one slide...life got in the way. Anyhow, battery and ground connections are tight. But I got ahold of a noid light, and yes, I also have no pulse to the injectors. All the fuses that might be relevant look good (and the engine started fine before I started the clutch job). I can't imagine why the EWS would be causing trouble (still have the same keys/ECU/etc), but it would fit. Looks like I need to invest in some diagnostic gear (which will be a separate thread), but if anybody has other ideas, I'm all ears. Thanks for the responses.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2020 | 02:16 PM
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It was just called to my attention that I never wrapped this one up...my problem was the ECU wasn't fully seated. I was afraid to bend any of the pins, so didn't press down hard enough, and figured if the cover went back on it was seated. Ooops.....
 
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Old Jul 26, 2020 | 02:56 PM
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From: Colorado
You should use the connector to snug down the ecu, as long as its on top evenly, as you push the connector plastic in from the end, it snugs the connector down to the ecu , both the front and back cables have that feature.
 
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