Any advice on how to remove the drivers side kick panel so I can try to fix the hood release?

 

Hi,
sounds like your cable has pulled out of the bracket that is behind the panel to the left of the footwell.
This happened to me. The panel is held by clips, so you can simply pull the panel off. I do not remember the exact locations, but if you pry along the edges of the panel you will locate them. A quick pull and they should pull out of their retaining holes.
You will probably need to bend the bracket back slightly prior to reinstalling the cable. I also retained the cable onto the bracket using a zip tie so it would not pull out again.


I also went through the whole bonnet release system, lubricating where possible. It makes a big difference to the amount of pull required to unlatch.

 

As stated, there is a system of clips that hold the panel in place. On my 2009, the panel is part of a piece that extends along the driver seat and to the rear seat where it is locked in place by another piece of plastic. I have a cheap set of body panel tools from Harbor Freight that worked well. $6.00 well spent.
When I had to fix mine, I found that the nylon/plastic cable end had become too deformed to hold itself in the fork of the latch mechanism. I ended up tie-wrapping the cable housing in place to the fork of the mechanism, after I got the hood open. ( I have a new one, but I haven't replaced it yet.)
You will need some help to free the bonnet the first time. Someone will need to push down evenly on both sides of the bonnet, to get the pressure off the release mechanisms, while you pull the cable. I used a pair of needle nose vise grips to pull the cable.
While you pull the cable, have the person up front gently push and pull on the front of the bonnet to free it. If your latches are as cruddy as mine were, they won't release all the way, but the bonnet can be pulled up. After getting it open spray the snot out of the release mechanisms with Kroil, or PB blaster, then use a nice multi purpose grease to lubricate the mechanism.
Go slow and take your time. From what I've read, it's pretty expensive to have this done at the dealer if something gets broken.

 

Here is a picture of the trim panel

 

I did not have to remove the whole panel. Once the front section was reasonably free, I was able to access the bracket and do the repair. Per above, zip tie the cable outer to the bracket to prevent similar occurrence.

 

That went nicely, thank all who reponded. My big worry was that removing the panel would entail breaking a whole lost of nasty little dealer-only clips, as always happens when I have to mess with upholstery on our other car, but the pins on the mini kick panels are all pleasantly robust. so one can pry the panel off with impunity.

I cleaned and greased the release and everything else I got reach, and worked the little while cable guide back into position (the bracket on mine didn't seem to have bent bent at all). Only problem is I can't figure out how to get a cable around the cable guide and bracket or other point in useful fashion. Pull force necessary is greatly reduced as a result of lubing, so it may be a cable tie is not essential.

There is am unused hole in one nearby which has been tapped for a bolt but not used, I'm going to take a look to see if might be used ti reinforce the bracket and guide, it is alarming the bracket and guide move about as pressure is applied to the release lever.

 

Ref the tie wrap.
It is a while since I did my repair, but I thought that there was an opening in the bracket, near where the bracket has a bend in and attaches to the car inner metal panel. I was able to pass the tie wrap through this opening and then zipped up around the outer cable, restraining the cable from pulling out of the slot.
Lubrication is the key for the rest of the system.

 

Bump for using this post today to fix my hood latch. R55. Excellent info here. Easily removed kick panel and zip-tied the cable back in place. Lubricated moving parts on hood latches. Again, great post.