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Issue after rebuild

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Old Sep 11, 2016 | 11:05 AM
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Issue after rebuild

I just finished installing a rebuilt head on my 08 N14 engine. It starts and idles fine for 1-2 minutes. Then it starts sputtering and surging. If I give it gas it smooths out but I still hear some popping. I haven't road tested yet. It is still in the garage on stands. My plan is to get a good analyzer clear all the old codes and see what new ones pop up. I don't have one now. Any tips on what I may check while I am waiting to get my new tool? Also any recommendations a good Diagnostic Code Scanner? I'm willing to spend a couple of hundred for one.
Thanks, Greg
 
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Old Sep 11, 2016 | 11:26 AM
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it sounds like you were describing my car...i got the same thing. i cleared coded numerous times and still sputtering. basically, there is probably a vacuum leak some where. I have not dug deep yet into mine, but soon will be looking for it. I hear hissing sound on the side but the sputtering is not constant.

did you check compression and all that? do you have miss fires?
 
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Old Sep 11, 2016 | 11:36 AM
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Sounds like fuel or vacuum to me, since it changes as you warm it up. That tends to point away from spark or electrical issues.

OTOH, if you pull codes and get misfire indications, I'd look at the coil packs. Their performance can change as they warm up. Easy way to check coils is to move them to different cylinders and check codes again. If the code moves with the coil, it's the coil.
 
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Old Sep 11, 2016 | 12:44 PM
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Did you follow the directions and lock the doors and wait 5-10 minutes before installing? That could be what is causing it
 
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Old Sep 11, 2016 | 04:58 PM
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Sounds like it could be air in the cooling system. If you elevate the front it makes it easier.
 
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Old Sep 11, 2016 | 09:21 PM
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I got this cheap reader and it worked great for me. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'd pull the intake and make sure i didn't miss something. Did it 5 times on mine... finally ended up being a failed BOV, which had no issues before my rebuild...WTF.

Point is, it could be something you didn't mess with, which is frustrating. Good luck, cheers.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2016 | 05:00 PM
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I finally had time to work on the mini again. The engine starts fine and runs smooth for about 2 minutes with no codes. Then it starts idling rough and throwing a P1497 code (Downstream Throttle Air Leak). It revs smooth with some minor popping.

I checked and rechecked all connections on hoses between the turbo and filter. I have read this could be the valve cover. Is there any way to test it? Of course I used all new gaskets and followed all torque specs from the Bentley manual.

Why would it run smooth for a couple minutes before throwing the code and sputtering?
All the sensor connectors seemed to fit and plug in one way during reassembly.
Is there anyway I could have swap 2 sensor connectors?
What am I missing?
Thanks in advance,
Greg
 
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Old Sep 29, 2016 | 05:32 PM
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I think it could be your valve cover. How many miles are on your valve cover? Mine was shot at 105K. The new one is a newer revision. Unfortunately they cost a fortune.... You could have a shop do a smoke test, I've heard that works well for detecting vacuum leaks but I've never done it.

You could have swapped a sensor plug but I think it would give you a code and most connectors only plug into a certain spot.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2016 | 01:18 PM
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A little back ground.
The motor has around 50K. It is a replacement motor that came from a crashed mini at a salvage yard. I have put about 10K on the motor since it has been in my mini and it was running great. Then one day accelerating on the highway I got CEL. Code pointed to misfire in cyl 3. After more trouble shooting discovered no compression in cyl 3. I suspected a blown head gasket and pulled the head. What I discovered was a broken valve in cyl 3.


There also was a lot of carbon buildup on the valves. I suspect the original owner of this motor used a lot of regular gas.


I sent the head out for reconditioning at a local speed shop. It looked beautiful when I got it back.
I then methodically reassembled following the Bentley manual and helpful YouTube videos.

So here I am today with it running badly with the 1497 code.
It's a rainy weekend so I plan to do some more inspection and troubleshooting tomorrow.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2016 | 01:25 PM
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i can only think of one other thing...valve cover ---> PCV valve gone bad. is the cover you have new design or old?
 
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Old Sep 30, 2016 | 01:36 PM
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How do I tell the difference between new and old design?
 
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Old Sep 30, 2016 | 01:37 PM
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the new design does not have the "mini" logo. also, the new design has some sort of a "breather/nipple" sticking out towards the middle of the cover on the side.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2016 | 01:38 PM
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Old Sep 30, 2016 | 01:46 PM
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I have the old design then.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2016 | 01:49 PM
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mine has the old one too and the engine shakes after few seconds of start. I will replace it tonight or early tomorrow and see if that make a difference. it isnt cheap unless you get it from a junk yard..check car-part.com first.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2016 | 02:09 PM
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forgot to mention, someone had that P1497 code and in his case it was the BOV, you may want to add that to your check/replace list!
 
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Old Oct 1, 2016 | 11:00 AM
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when you reinstalled your hpfp did you use new line's ' or use the old line's ??
 
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Old Oct 1, 2016 | 11:15 AM
  #18  
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And have you double check to make sure all IC piping is tight' normally when that code pops up it's the coupler on the Throttlebody! or the coupler on the noise maker are loossee
 
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Old Oct 1, 2016 | 12:10 PM
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I used existing lines for the HPFP.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2016 | 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by TSTSleeper
I used existing lines for the HPFP.
Your head looked exactly like mine 6 months ago... I used a new fuel line when I did mine because Bentley says to replace. I think it was 50$ at the stealership. I remember it was a pita to torque. I had to buy a clawfoot wrench. As for the BOV comment in above post, mine when out right after my rebuild but I got a different code 28AA
 
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Old Oct 1, 2016 | 03:18 PM
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I checked and rechecked all the hoses. Even tried spraying starter fluid around all the joints to see if I could get the engine to surge. No luck.
I'm beginning to think I do have some type of component failure,

I'm going to talk to a mechanic I trust that works on a lot of Minis BMWs and Porsche to see if he has any suggestions. If not, I will tow it over to him to work on it. The only thing he usually has a 2 or 3 week backlog.

Thanks for all the suggestions.
Greg
 
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Old Oct 1, 2016 | 07:44 PM
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Ever time you remove tho's line you need to replaces them' they are pressurized and when you brake the seal there no resealing it! there could be a fuel delivery problem!
 
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Old Oct 1, 2016 | 08:03 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by BigBoost
Ever time you remove tho's line you need to replaces them' they are pressurized and when you brake the seal there no resealing it! there could be a fuel delivery problem!
Think something like 10,000psi. $50 is pretty cheap insurance... I'd replace it just to be safe.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2017 | 01:05 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by MiniToBe
forgot to mention, someone had that P1497 code and in his case it was the BOV, you may want to add that to your check/replace list!
Hi. What is a BOV?
 
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Old Dec 17, 2017 | 02:24 PM
  #25  
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BOV = Blow Off Valve

Though it isn't really a blow off valve, those vent to atmosphere. Our MINIs have a recirculation valve that recirculates pressurized air from the turbo outlet to the turbo inlet, it prevents the turbocharger from surging.
 
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