I'm still here...
A relative suggested he had trouble with a fuel cutoff switch (inertia switch?) on one of his vehicles. I found where it was located on the earlier Minis, but didn't find anything about a 2009. Does this sound like it might be a possibility?

Since my son was in the school parking lot when this initially happened it wouldn't surprise me if it didn't get bumped. No visible damage, though.

Thanks again,
Travis

 

I don't think it's like the earlier gen 1 MINI's.

Real OEM diagram below:

Gen 1 under switches - http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part...+S&mg=61&sg=35
Gen 2 under switches it's not there - http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part...Cooper_S&mg=61

In this thread HERE Way said that in '04 they integrated it into the airbag module.

 

Well I pulled the Mini up to Loveland. They said the DME (computer) was bad, and would have to order one. I left the car there and will make another trip back when it is finished. Haven't heard anything else. Hope that is all there is.

Unfortunately, we broke off the black cowling (?) thing below the radiator grill when pushing it up on the trailer since the car sat so low. Hope we can resecure it back on when we get our car back.

It's always something....

Travis

 

Well, at least now you know it wasn't a simple diagnosis. Glad they were able to figure it out. Are you talking about the lower lip? Hopefully you can reattach it, but if not and you need the part just let me know.

 

Finally picked up the car today.

Last week they replaced the computer and it started up. Then said it was making a noise in the engine, and wanted to know if I wanted them to diagnose it. They thought it might be the timing chain becoming loose or apart. I know a few days before the computer problem started, I heard a little rattling noise when it idled and asked my teenage son about it, and he said it always made that noise. Since my hearing is terrible, I figured he was probably right. So, I told them not to worry about the noise, since we already shelled out the cash for the computer replacement. A few days later, my wife and a friend drove to Loveland to get the car, and I get a phone call from her saying, "Something is not right". No power, acts like something slipping, etc... So, I tell her to leave it there and have them diagnose it after all. To make a long story a little shorter, it did need the timing chain replaced, also they replaced a VANOS solenoid.

The good news is the Mini is running great, bad news, well, the financial damage. Oh well, you can't take it with you, right?

One last thing, on the way home my son is driving in front of me on the interstate and all of the sudden this black thing comes flying towards my car. Thought it was a piece of road debris. Wrong, it was the black plastic window pillar getting launched off of his car. Will it ever end?? Got one on order after getting home, and will work on getting that front end piece on tomorrow. Hope this is the last you hear from me in a while!!

Travis

 

The R56 is known for an engine rattle called the "death rattle." The timing chain guides wear from lack of lubrication and running low on engine oil. This can cause timing chain rattle at start up, noise when running and worse-case scenario a jumped timing engine. I'd be curious if your car ever went in for the timing chain/tensioner issue. I'd call your local MINI dealer and give them your vin to see if your MINI qualifies for it. You may get lucky and get reimbursed for it. Not 100% sure on that though. Since it's been fixed, keep an eye on your oil level. Check it at minimum every time you fill up. Good luck and hope you don't have anymore issues, Travis!

 

Sorry to bring back older post but this is the closest I've found to someone with my exact symptoms.

07 R56,
Same as everything above EXCEPT I've narrowed mine down to a DME plug seating issue or an issue with a connection inside of the DME(broken solder connection). If I press down on either of the 2 largest DME plugs the relay stops clicking and SOMETIMES my car will start right up. Other times I actually have to have someone hold the plug down while I start the car. Once it's running it drives as normally does.

I'm an electrical tech and decided to take the risk and pop open the DME and reflow all the large 90degree pins. This did nothing but was worth a shot as those pins flex if the DME plugs are pressed and pulled directions, thought one cracked.

I found evidence after unwrapping the center DME plug and front plug(2 largest) that someone had spliced off a number of connections. My car had Alta Performance short shifter and rear sway bar installed when I bought it so wouldn't surprise me if someone had a gauge hooked up and needed to tap into the harness. The wastegate line had a random coupler in it too, like someone tapped into that as well.
I cleaned up all the splicing cruddy soldering jobs and didn't fix anything.

pretty much thinking I need a new DME. Thought it might be one of the 50+ possible pins in a single massive plug not making connection with a pin. However, I can press down on either of the 2 large plugs to get it to start. So the pcb may be flexing just enough so make contact with whatever has a missconnection. Im talking a hair gap between a solder ball and its pad, it happens to plebty of electronics out there.

don't want to buy a brand new DME if I don't have to

 

why not open the DME and plug it to the car and test each pin for signal/power? you can also, buy these plugs from ebay and do a continuity test to the PCB board.

 

Do you know what these plugs are called or send me a link?

Right, I can do that and test to see if any male pins aren't making proper contact with the female pins unless the plug is pressed on. Since I reflowed all the legs I'm 99% sure the connections to the pcb are fine. One of the pins could have a bad connection though. Leaning away from that as I can press on either of the 2 large plugs to get the car to start. Pressing on one plug doesn't effect how the other plug is seated. So I'm still leaning towards it being an issue with a component on the pcb.

I can now successfully start my car every time by propping a 1x1 on top of either of the 2 large plugs and resting the hood on it, which then presses on the plug. Then I can start it by myself at least.

I will be away for the next 5 days but will check it out when I return.

 

a quick ebay search yielded these https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...plugs&_sacat=0

not all plugs are the same. notate the year and weather it's an S or non or Auto or Manual.

you also have this site https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/ that will help you with pin wiring and location.