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Stock Problems/IssuesDiscussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S(R56), and Cabrio (R57).
Hi, Hopefully a simple question. I've got an '08 Mini Hatch. One of the side marker bulbs (in the front arch light/reflector on the fender) burnt out. The bulb in the car (and what the factory manual calls out) is a 3W3 3 watt bulb. What most cross-reference lists for Philips and Wagner call for is a 5w5 5 watt bulb. Before I go out and replace them with 5 watt bulbs on all 4 corners, has anyone had any issues with heat from the larger bulbs? The bulb fits into a sort of plastic tube on the arch housing that holds the bulb real tightly with no air ventilation. Last thing I want to do is start overheating that housing and have it start deforming. But maybe I'm over worrying about the hotter bulb.
Others' experience with using a 5 watt bulb would be helpful, as they're a lot more plentiful.
So the replacement arch light comes with a 3W bulb - but the replacement bulbs are 5W. I'm guessing that's OK, then? Any issues folks have seen with the 5W bulb in that housing? I'd imagine that you'd replace all 4 corners with the same 5W so they look similar.
Now I can't get the new socket firmly seated onto the harness connector. I'm lifting the tab toward the bulb but it is not going together all the way.
How are you attempting to install it? You can try to peel back the wheel well liner to expose the side marker light electrical connector (red arrow below) to gain better access to it. You can try to get the electrical connector inserted by pressing the release tab and pushing it straight on. Make sure there are no debris in the way of the connection.
Hmmm. I have pried, not seeing anything to push. Now old one will not seat either. My progress: removed wheel, clips, propped fender liner back, replaced broken light assembly and thought the hard part was over. I have tried to insert an image. Thanks for the help.
This on the rear side marker light.
Last edited by b4hntn; Mar 8, 2016 at 02:10 PM.
Reason: Thought
So the replacement arch light comes with a 3W bulb - but the replacement bulbs are 5W. I'm guessing that's OK, then? Any issues folks have seen with the 5W bulb in that housing? I'd imagine that you'd replace all 4 corners with the same 5W so they look similar.
Hmmm. I have pried, not seeing anything to push. Now old one will not seat either. My progress: removed wheel, clips, propped fender liner back, replaced broken light assembly and thought the hard part was over. I have tried to insert an image. Thanks for the help.
This on the rear side marker light.
Ah, ok. So here is a shot of the rear one. It should have a release tab on it as well. If you can post a picture it might help.
Use the same 5W bulb for both of them if the side indicator light is clear. If the side indicator light #1 is yellow it's a different part number, ends in 798 at that link.
MINI has always had the 797 bulb but it was listed as a "brighter" bulb made by Sylvania. I don't remember the part number for the other 194 style bulbs but it was listed as being for markers. I checked the film and seems MINI deleted that part no. and usage going with the 5W all the way around....
MINI has always had the 797 bulb but it was listed as a "brighter" bulb made by Sylvania. I don't remember the part number for the other 194 style bulbs but it was listed as being for markers. I checked the film and seems MINI deleted that part no. and usage going with the 5W all the way around....
Will double check this in the AM.
Ya, we have them listed as for front and rear. Curious to what you find.
I see now. So from what I see it looks like the connector is attached to the socket. It looks like your release clip is broken off on it. You should be able to get it back into the housing (ignore the red arrow). The socket housing goes in and then turns 90 degrees. You need to align the raised tabs below the o-ring with the openings n the socket housing and then turn it 90 degrees after the o-ring is seated in the socket.
Seems BMW film has made all the 194 bulbs same part no. so 5w bulb.
However, that is not correct bulb for side markers and too hot as I have seen more than a few of those melt.
The proper part number for 3W bulb from MINI for side markers is:
07-11-9-905-358 BULB @ $3.99ea. There are over 2,000 of those bulbs in MINI inventory but part no has been erroneously deleted from ETK film
Actually when entered into the BMW MINI film it back tracked to nothing...."part not found". Your listing must be an older application. Best guess, this bulb I estimate has not been in the film for 3yrs or so.
Actually when entered into the BMW MINI film it back tracked to nothing...."part not found". Your listing must be an older application. Best guess, this bulb I estimate has not been in the film for 3yrs or so.
Ya, I've been looking into this today and those 3W bulbs are only listed for BMW's and not MINI's. I'm going to do a little deeper digging on them. Real OEM even says this: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/partxref?q=07119905358.
Pelican after you assured me the socket is seated I wiggled more. The wire to connector is nor reliable. Socket to connector is fine. I have sprayed it with electrical cleaner four time a day for a couple of days with no improvement.
Background: the light lens was broken and the bulb and socket were full of muddy water so I am thinking corrosion in the wire to connector.
Anyway, light goes off when bending the wire only one way so I reinstalled with that direction up. However, that depends on the weight of the wire for reliability. Stopping to wait your reply.
Do you sell the connector? I would prefer to wait for it rather than doing it again.
FYI on a previous picture the red arrow points to the attachment nut. Use a 10mm socket and make threads on the new part with the nut before installation.
You will need two of these wires with metal bushing ends: # 61130005199 - and getting just the old twin pin #341 connector by itself is no longer possible.
Instead BMW put together a somewhat useless kit. I call it useless because typically the wiring is the issue for this replacement, and 99% of the time the wire is corroded down the insulation 5 inches....and this marvelous kit comes with no wires....it's designed to use the OLD wiring...dumb. It also comes with parts that end up being thrown away.
So you have to purchase this repair kit which is about $15 dollars more than what the connector used to cost and then throw away the rest of the crap in the bag.
You will need this with the two wires above: #61132359999
You push the metal wire ends into the back of the clip until you hear it click into position, then slide the locking mechanism on the connector to lock them in place.
Will also need shrink tubing to seal the soldered connection.
I finished putting it back together. If it goes out and is needed for Texas inspection I'll look for one in a U Pull It. You saved me a lot of time searching the Internet.