2007 MCS

At this point I'm just waiting for it stop working

 

147k on my 2007 MCS. Had all the valves replaced at 114k when one of the exhaust valves burnt up, among other preventative maintenance items along the way. Hoping that should carry her on to the 200k club

 

156,000, 2008 Non-S
Brake pads
Brake Rotors
Coils
Plugs
Tires etc...
Timing chain upper guide (x2)
Timing Chain Tensioner (Have never replaced whole guide and chain - still sounds quiet to me...)
Shocks
Oil pan gasket
Crank Gasket
Valve cover Gasket
Water pump
Water pipe
T-Stat (x2)
PCV vent tube to intake manifold
PCV rubber red gasket
Lots of rust remediation - especially around the spare tire and brake lines!

Still on the original clutch - However, my FIL (original owner) and my teen age son are both avid drivers who know double clutching, rev matching and heal/toe very well.

 

My 2010S with JCW kit has 124K. I love the performance but unfortunately it has been plagued by electrical problems as soon as it hit 100K. So far this year it has cost me over 4K just to keep it running. Engine is good, tranny (6speed) is good. Latest problem was a crank but no start issue. The mechanic realized the low pressure fuel pump was only receiving 8 volts. We discovered that the FP relay is not working. Everything is hard wired on that right side panel so you can't just replace the relay you have to replace the whole panel, $470. Of course the low voltage fried the FP so that had to be replaced also. Then to no ones understanding (including dealers) when the panel was replaced the car went into transport mode (TRA) so I couldn't even drive it to the dealer (30 miles away). That is just the latest of the issues, there have been many more. I can't afford these bills and I can't trust the car on a long trip so I will be getting rid of it as soon as I find something I like. Good luck out there.

 

Hi Sikamini,

You still own your mini and do you do all the repairs yourself? I have a question: I have a 2007 MCS want to know how do I tell if my Turbo is actually working? I drive with the Sport Mode on but feels the same if I turn it off.

 

Sport mode only changes the shift points - makes little if any diff to boost

 

This is my 2009 Mini Cooper S Hardtop Coupe (R56). While it's been fun to own and drive, I've spent thousands of dollars in upkeep

 

That's a great looking, clean car. Such fun to look at and drive....a shame that the repair issues overshadow all the good aspects.
If you keep them long enough (based on what I read here and my own '12 MCS)....you will likely pay the piper.

 

thanks

do you still own your 2012 Mini ? What sorts of major repairs/failures have you encountered? Transmission failure? Engine water pump failure?

I would think the BMW engine equipped Mini’s are much more stable?

Funny, you sure see quite a few Mini’s on the road, everywhere.

 

264,597mi other than thermostat housings and oil leaks, not much really. Only major repair I did was the timing chain at 200k as a precaution. Did axels as well, but that's it. I don't think I've done any other repairs, just seals here and there. Also routine stuff, but that doesn't count

 

I see, thanks. Good to know you've got over 200K miles on yours, that gives me some hope. I've been somewhat fortunate in that I've been mostly retired a few years after I purchased my Mini (back in 2008), so I have'nt had to do the daily freeway commute here in L.A.. That saves a lot of wear & tear (although I still experience other types of failures). My Mini just turned 50K miles, at 14 years old.

I just experienced an oil leak. Had oil pan gasket replaced. Also replaced valve cover (Nick Alexander Mini, Los Angeles). Just need to replace shocks and suspension parts now.

 

WestCoastD, Yes, still have my '12 MC-S. Ultimately my problem was a bad ECU that had to be replaced. Total cost was a shade over $2K, which included two different tow jobs when the first BMW-Mini specialist couldn't do the job because he didn't have access to the MC software. This happened when the car only had 29K miles and when I wasn't prepared to spend that much money. As I've mentioned...I've been spoiled by Mazda Miatas that for twenty years only required basic maintenance. And if there were ever any parts that needed to be purchased, they were at a very reasonable prices.

Having to replace the ECU after owning the car for less than a year, blindsided me. Not to mention the constant "barrage" of mechanical issues that seem to appear on every Mini forum, website or FB page I frequent. That said; I LOVE driving it and while different that my past Miatas certainly no less fun.

But, I cannot shake the feeling that I'm driving a car that cannot be trusted and one that is ultimately going to bite me real bad someday. I'm changing the oil every 5K miles and keeping a close eye on the top ten list of problems that most owners experience. However I plan to let it go at the end of 2023 with no more than 30K miles on the odometer. Good luck with yours!

 

wow, a 2012 with only 30,000 miles on it? So you did'nt purchase it brand-new? Because it seems, being under 30K miles, the ECU would have been replaced (by the dealer) under warranty?

And, yes, I don't enjoy the feeling of driving a car that can NOT be trusted! I've owned only Acura Integra's prior to the Mini (Honda's are solid). But I do love driving the Mini. And I love being able to park just about in any size space!

 

No, I purchased it used from the original owner with 29,500 miles on it. He special ordered the car, kept it garaged and covered and his wife only drove it to work and back. He was **** about its upkeep and even today....people mistake it for a new car. Super clean. But that didn't keep it from leaving me stranded thirty miles from home. Again, I love driving this car and it fits me to a T. But I'd never trust it as a daily driver. Those cars have been Camrys, Accords and a Mazda 3. At 200K miles I end up giving them to my adult children who then drive them for years. But before I get thrown off this forum...I love driving my Mini and what I'd really like is a R58 Mini Coupe!

 

same here, I love driving my 2009 Mini Cooper S. And I would love to own a new (2023) Mini Cooper S coupe, 2-door. I would expect a new BMW power plant would be much more reliable than the Peugeot manufactured power plant in my 2009 R56 ?

I’m 63 years old, and semi-retired. All I’ve ever owned prior to my Mini, is a 1993 Acura Integra, and a 1996 Acura Integra (tells you how much I loved the Integra’s). They were solid cars (Honda’s). And tons of cool after market accessories and mods (ie. shocks, springs, headers, exhaust, cam gears, rims/tires, etc.,.,). They looked and sounded cool, and were fun to drive. And still very RELIABLE!

I drove the 1996 Integra up until October 2008, when I had a minor accident. A week or so later, after the insurance company recommended to write-off the car as “totaled”, I went to the Mini dealer. They just received a transport full of new models (still had white protective sheeting all over the body panels). I saw my silver/black 2009 Mini Cooper S, and purchased it on the spot (it had 6 miles on the odometer).

More importantly, upon driving my new Mini Cooper S the first time, it outperformed my (modded) Acura Integra’s, right off the lot! The Mini exhibited noticeably more power, with a much more refined “feel” to it. A complete different experience. The turbocharged engine propelled the car like a slingshot. Obviously you can’t really compare those two vehicles. The Mini is much lighter than a Acura Integra (Honda).

 

Good luck, hope you enjoy your ride....whatever it is.

 

Hi BIkerboy2018. Sorry to hear about your misfortune with the ecu. You're on the right track though with the other things you are doing. Changing your oil every 5k is one of the most important things you can do to get the most smiles per mile out of your Mini. It seems that as with most English cars, these tend to need a little extra TLC and preventative maintenance to operate at their peak. Things such as replacing the coolant and brake fluid every two years, transmission fluid every 40k to 50k, walnut blasting about the same, spark plugs every 30k miles, 20k if tuned, etc.. I like to think of all these as just good preventative maintenance.

On the ecu, hopefully you never have another one fail, but if you do there is a much cheaper alternative to buying new. There are a few vendors here on NAM with the ability to clone ecu's. You would first need to shop online for a used ecu with the same part number as the one you have now and then mail both in. Provided the memory in your ecu isn't buggered, which is rare, it can be turned around the same day and shipped back. We charge $100 plus shipping and I believe most vendors with the capability charge about the same. Your best bet would probably be to find the one closest to you, to keep the shipping time to a minimum. Also make sure to request and verify that your ecu is getting cloned and that you will not receive a copy that has been IMMO'ed off (immobilizer deactivated). On an IMMO ecu, if the factory software is ever updated by a shop, the vehicle will no longer start. Most types of OBD tuning can also lead to the vehicle not starting. A cloned ecu however, in every way acts as if it is your original ecu. It can be updated and tuned normally and there's no need to reprogram the keys or re-initialize anything. Unplug the old, plug in the clone, start her up and drive away.

Happy Motoring

 

thanks for the tips.