Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.

Clutches don't normally just stop working do they?

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Old Dec 3, 2014 | 06:37 PM
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Clutches don't normally just stop working do they?

My son's 2004 r53 won't shift (I haven't actually tried it yet, it's stuck at his GF's).


He says the pedal has no resistance,, but, it wasn't making any noise.


Is there something that can become disconnected?
 
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Old Dec 3, 2014 | 07:03 PM
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Clutch activation is hydrolytic... So a failed master or slave would make sense, assuming you can shift OK with the motor off.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2014 | 07:34 PM
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Thanks zippy. Although I think I may have figured out the drops on the garage floor.

I always thought it was motor oil. Now, I'm thinking it's brake fluid.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2014 | 05:22 AM
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Yup...uses dot4 from the same resiviour as the brake's...
So a leaky cylindar would make sense...
 
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Old Dec 4, 2014 | 05:25 AM
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Originally Posted by ZippyNH
Yup...uses dot4 from the same resiviour as the brake's...
So a leaky cylindar would make sense...
I sure hope that's all it is. I stuck my finger in one of the spots on the floor and gave it a sniff.

No smell.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2014 | 05:49 AM
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+1 on more than likely the Slave Cylinder and/or Clutch Line, the connector is an ABS Plastic to ABS Plastic connector with an O-Ring held in with a Spring Clip.

You might be able to just TOP OFF your Brake Reservoir pump up your clutch pedal to get it home to work on it.

Best of luck.

Motor on!
 
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Old Dec 4, 2014 | 02:38 PM
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Well, the fluid was definitely low. I got it to shift and brought it home.


Shifting got better and better the more I drove it, but, it's not shifting as smoothly as before.


I'm guessing it needs to be bled. Is that a big deal?
 
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Old Dec 4, 2014 | 02:43 PM
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First replace the leaking part, then bleed.
Bleeding is a bit tricky to get all the air out.
Usually have to remove and compress the transmission side slave cylinder to do it properly.
Do a search on it or get someone who knows how.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2014 | 02:56 PM
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Double post (sort of)
 

Last edited by traildog; Dec 4, 2014 at 04:09 PM.
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Old Dec 4, 2014 | 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by cristo
First replace the leaking part, then bleed.
Bleeding is a bit tricky to get all the air out.
Usually have to remove and compress the transmission side slave cylinder to do it properly.
Do a search on it or get someone who knows how.

I may or may not attempt it. I will find the leak first.


York, PA huh? Mom grew up on 941 North Duke Street!
 
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Old Dec 4, 2014 | 04:51 PM
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Wow! YouTube is my friend! Looks like a really easy job.

I'll be making the tool to compress the slave cylinder.

I'll let you know how it goes.....
 
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Old Dec 4, 2014 | 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by traildog


York, PA huh? Mom grew up on 941 North Duke Street!
That's just a couple dozen blocks north of me.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2014 | 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by cristo

That's just a couple dozen blocks north of me.
Truly a small world...........
 
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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 04:02 PM
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Well, I guess I need a new slave cylinder. Got her bled out, but, I still have to double pump the clutch to get it to shift.


I may bleed it again just in case........
 
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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 05:16 PM
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I'd just change it...
It should be sealed, and never need to be bleed once installed..and a puddle of dot4 on the floor is it dying cry for help!!
 
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Old Dec 6, 2014 | 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by ZippyNH
I'd just change it...
It should be sealed, and never need to be bleed once installed..and a puddle of dot4 on the floor is it dying cry for help!!
Well, I changed it and all is well again............

Thanks for the help fellas.
 
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