Alternator/Battery charging question
Alternator/Battery charging question
Hey NAM,
So yesterday my car wouldn't start and had AAA give me a jump. He tested the battery and said/showed me that the battery was fine just needed a charge but my alternator wasn't charging as it was showing 12.8V The A/C works, power steering works and my S/C pulls just as it did before. I drove the car under heavy load for about 15-20 minutes. As I was driving, my battery gauge would dip from 8V-13V.
This morning, car wouldn't start. So I just took the metro to work. Can the alternator die within a couple days? Any advice? Before this incident nothing changed except for the addition of my pulley but that was a couple weeks back. Also the speedo does that dance every time I try to turn it over.
Thank you
So yesterday my car wouldn't start and had AAA give me a jump. He tested the battery and said/showed me that the battery was fine just needed a charge but my alternator wasn't charging as it was showing 12.8V The A/C works, power steering works and my S/C pulls just as it did before. I drove the car under heavy load for about 15-20 minutes. As I was driving, my battery gauge would dip from 8V-13V.
This morning, car wouldn't start. So I just took the metro to work. Can the alternator die within a couple days? Any advice? Before this incident nothing changed except for the addition of my pulley but that was a couple weeks back. Also the speedo does that dance every time I try to turn it over.
Thank you
Who did the pulley install??
There have been a few folks who fail to install the ground cable right on the passenger side mount, leading to issues with the electrical system....charging issues first, then sometimes a burnt out ecu.
As to the life lifespan of an alternator....
Have a Toyota highlander (same denso core as the gen1 OEM unit, just different case) with almost 240,000 miles on it....but have known folks who go through a "discount" lifetime units every few months on a mini.....
Units don't tend to last as long on a mini...rpms are tough on the bearings and brushes...The highlander crises at 2000 rpms and rarely goes above 3000....my mini cruises at 3200....
But you USUALLY get a RED light with an alternator failure...
There have been a few folks who fail to install the ground cable right on the passenger side mount, leading to issues with the electrical system....charging issues first, then sometimes a burnt out ecu.
As to the life lifespan of an alternator....
Have a Toyota highlander (same denso core as the gen1 OEM unit, just different case) with almost 240,000 miles on it....but have known folks who go through a "discount" lifetime units every few months on a mini.....
Units don't tend to last as long on a mini...rpms are tough on the bearings and brushes...The highlander crises at 2000 rpms and rarely goes above 3000....my mini cruises at 3200....
But you USUALLY get a RED light with an alternator failure...
Since they are a pro shop that knows mini's, I'd say they are competent.
My guess....
Your PS pump (very common issue)or maybe another item (lights by accident or mechanical failure) did not turn off...and killed the battery..
I would listen in a quiet location, like a garage, car off...and listen for the PS pump...try to turn the wheel...see if it moves easy, like the pump is running.
My guess....
Your PS pump (very common issue)or maybe another item (lights by accident or mechanical failure) did not turn off...and killed the battery..
I would listen in a quiet location, like a garage, car off...and listen for the PS pump...try to turn the wheel...see if it moves easy, like the pump is running.
As I was pulling away from my driveway, I have to go at it at a 60-70 degree angle, and it was fluid so I don't think it's the power steering. Can it be a bad battery? even though the AAA guy said it had no bad cells? Also I only drive about 8 miles a day, total of maybe 20 minutes, and basically none on the weekends.
One failure mode of the PS pump is IT DOES NOT TURN OFF.....but works fine with the car running...thus killing the battery.
A bad battery will loose power as it sits, a "test" is usually just a load test and a voltage test...no longer term check to see if it self discharges.... Out of car is best to see if a cell is bad to isolite a "phantom" load, like a bad PS pump.
A bad battery will loose power as it sits, a "test" is usually just a load test and a voltage test...no longer term check to see if it self discharges.... Out of car is best to see if a cell is bad to isolite a "phantom" load, like a bad PS pump.
oh so turn the key to the on position and see if it turns without too much hesitation? is that what you are referring to?
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so i just checked if the power steering pump makes any noise with the car off, i don't hear anything and without the engine on, the wheels turn pretty smoothly. i tried turning my headlights on just because and the car blacked out basically. any other advice would be greatly appreciated.
If you are still having issues with the voltage dropping off and crazy electrical antics when your engine is under heavy load (lights on, A/C blowing, etc.) Have the crank pulley checked (Vibration Damper) see the bottom of page one of this post: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...y-blk-r53.html
Motor on!
Motor on!
Hi, Madness here, sorry to hear you are having problems. You are correct if we had messed up the wiring you wouldn't have had any charge in your batter. I am glad you were able to find out the problem, please feel free to call us if you have any further problems.
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