Hello All,

First off, I've searched all over the web, and this site for instructions on removing and replacing the serpentine belt tensioner, and, as far as I can tell, none of them mention this trick I've discovered.

If you've read any of the DIY instructions on how to remove the belt tensioner all of them state that after the belt is removed, the engine needs to be jacked up in order to slip the tensioner out of the engine bay.

That's the hard way.

Here's the easy way: Remove the dampener first.

That's right, remove the dampener before unbolting the part from the engine. So, instead of removing a rigid part, it becomes a flexible part thanks to the spring in the middle. That will give you enough flex to rotate and move the part toward the front of the car. Then with a couple of slight jiggles, it falls right out. Reassembly is even easier—just don't forget to bolt the dampener back onto the tensioner before motoring.

This tip makes this a 35-45 minute job from start to finish.

 

Very cool ...I'm subscribing to this as I'll be replacing mine in a few months time.

I'm guessing for reassembly you took the dampener off the new one and slid it into place and bolted it back down?

 

Yup, that's right.

Also, upon reflection, if I did it again I'd start the bolts on the tensioner, then bolt on the dampener, then finish tightening the bolts on the tensioner. The dampener helps keep everything in line as it's going up against the engine.

Good luck on your project!

 

I did mine a couple of years ago and I don't recall having to remove the damper or jack the engine. Maybe it was because I replaced the crank pulley at the same time and likely had it off when the tensioner came out/went in.

 

Yes, if you have the pulley out, the tensioner is not obstructed at all. Last time I replaced the tensioner I did it with the pulley at the same time and that made it easy. If you only need to do the tensioner, you're stuck.

BTW, The reason I'm doing this again after only three months is because the Gates tensioner I installed destroyed its rubber dampener bushings. Next time I won't assume that even when parts seem to be of good quality, they aren't necessarily the same quality as OEM.

 

Gates makes the OEM dampener. WMW has derlin bushings that will last a lot longer

 

OEM supplier quality is different from aftermarket quality,even when they are the same supplier, but it's weird you had an issue with the Gates tensioner, as we offer those at near half the cost of the factory one without issue.

Powerflex offers poly bushing inserts that can be replaced in around a half hour, and should offer a lifetime of trouble free operation.

http://www.detroittuned.com/powerfle...amper-bushing/

 

Hi JeanPaul.

So You Say To Remove The Shock First
N' Then The Damper?

Also Ask That Job Is From The Passenger Side
From The Tire?

 

I know this is an old thread, but I think it deserves a bump.

I replaced the tensioner on mine yesterday, and this tip certainly helped. I had replaced the belt and s/c pulley on mine just a few weeks ago, before the tensioner started making noises. Didn't want to go through the same engine lifting procedure all over again... so now I managed to swap the tensioner without even taking the belt off. Only thing that needed to come off first was the engine mount bracket, because I was doing the job from above, and not removing the wheel and wheel liner. I did have to support the engine from below though, so lifting it wouldn't have caused much extra work. But I don't think it would have helped that much either.

 

Thanks JeanPaul for saving me a ton of grief! Much appreciated! 🤜💥🤛👍🏿👏🏿👏🏿👏🏿🥳🥳🥳🥳🥳🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸

 

By removing the dampener, do you mean the crank pulley?

 

NO......he means the thin black shock like piston attached to the belt tensioner.

 

Makes sense now, thanks!

 

Yes, thanks for the clarification.

 

Any pictures. This thread would make a lot more sense with one picture. I thought he was talking about the front shock....

 

Has anyone ever installed a ALTA shock on their R53 pulley tensioner belt? Or is it best to purchase the power flex bushings for my original OEM shock.

 

The general consensus is that they're not a good idea, it's better for the tensioner to be able to move and adjust as it's in use, instead of being fixed like the alta tensioner. I recently replaced my tensioner. The pulley was making noise and the damper wasn't damping at all, but the bushings were actually fine. This tensioner had 17 years and 100,000 miles on it. I put the powerflex bushings in, but in hindsight I'm not sure they're really necessary.

Also I tried the trick on this thread, I couldn't get it to work. I ended up having to put the car into front end service mode to get the tensioner out. If someone finds a way to do it like the OP suggests, I'd love to see a picture or video of it.

 

Hi, I use offset ring spanners, wheel off but it's a pain in the bum...

 

that is too much work, I've never found it hard but i remove the spring retainer to make it easier to install it