Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.

Spark plug threads stripped. Repair questions.

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Old Aug 25, 2014 | 12:43 PM
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Spark plug threads stripped. Repair questions.

I just got back from almost two months of traveling. Just before I left, as I was on my way to the airport, my 2003 MCS decided to eject the number 3 spark plug. Since I obviously didn't have time to deal with the problem then, I have the great joy of attending to it now.

The threads in the head are totally stripped, and I'm hoping to have a helicoil or timesert repair done. Before I ask any questions, a bit of backstory:

I purchased the car in June from my friend, which I posted about here:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...me-decide.html

This problem with the number 3 plug had occurred some years earlier for my friend too. Threads had stripped out, and a mechanic had installed some sort of insert (I'm going to assume a helicoil). My friend had no trouble with it in the years since that repair was made.

A few weeks after I bought the car, the plug popped out on me; but I managed to screw it back in. The threads didn't seem great, but it worked. I figured I'd attend to it after my trip. Life had a funny way of teaching me that was a bad plan.

When the plug popped out on the way to the airport, I couldn't reach where the plug ended up in the engine compartment - and I pushed it even further into the car trying to retrieve it. (Despite much effort later, I have not seen or been able to retrieve the plug since.) I tried installing a new plug, but there are simply no threads left. I assume that the previous fix (probably a helicoil), came out with the plug.

I'm hoping to not have to replace the head, because that's a time consuming and expensive task. I am hoping that a repair can be made without removing the head. So I have a number of questions:

If the cylinder has already been tapped for a previous insert repair, will the head still be able to be tapped for and accept a new repair?

I have read that a timesert is preferable to a helicoil (especially in that they are far less likely to pop out). Is this true?

Does anyone know a decent head shop in Bay Area of California (preferably the South Bay)?

Thanks for any help you can provide.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2014 | 01:02 PM
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Sorry to hear about the unfortunate situation you have found yourself in.

Time-Sert is by far the superior product to place in your head as thread replacements go. Helicoils tend to vibrate and eventually come off and at times, can come off at the same time when removing plugs.

We recently performed this on a R56 as shown below in the photo. Let us know if you need any assistance.

Name:  timesert_zps00987902.jpg
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Old Aug 25, 2014 | 01:58 PM
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In the Aerospace industry we use "Keen-Serts". The beauty of them is that they have 4 locking tangs that drive in vertical, between the base material and the screw in insert. They never come loose.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2014 | 06:23 PM
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TimeSert for the win! I installed one after my Mini spitted the cylinder one plug and it's been almost 3 years (I believe, stupid memory) and everything is fine. I prefer the concept of TimeSert as it's a full sleeve rather than a spring thingy.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2014 | 04:48 PM
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After much more research, it seems like a time-sert is the way to go. But I'm still apprehensive about trying to cut threads into the already re-tapped plug hole.

Has anyone here ever tried to cut a time-sert hole on top of a previous helicoil type-repair?
 
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Old Aug 27, 2014 | 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by alistaircookie
After much more research, it seems like a time-sert is the way to go. But I'm still apprehensive about trying to cut threads into the already re-tapped plug hole. Has anyone here ever tried to cut a time-sert hole on top of a previous helicoil type-repair?
Your in a tough spot. But it's very simple to decide. The time-sert is the obvious choice. Why u ask. If it works great. If it doesn't well then you are back at square 1 and will have to replace the head or at least send it out for repair.

Simple first. Hard second. You have ZERO to loose attempting the time-sert.

My .02.

Good luck. And let us know how it turns out.

Question I have is why did it spit the plug in the first place? Not a common occurrence. Over torque under torque antiseize wrong plug. Overheat????????

Sent from my iPad using NAMotoring
 
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Old Aug 27, 2014 | 07:38 PM
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From: Perth West Australia in an industrial unit with my numerous cars.
Always use anti-seize and a torque wrench, but I guess you have worked that out by now. When you do the 'head on' repair grease the tools up so as much swarf as possible sticks to it and blow out with compressed air after. Good luck.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2014 | 08:06 PM
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You should be able to repair the threads still as Helicoil is a bit smaller than the inserts from TIME-SERT. We've done several R56 and E9x series vehicles. We haven't had to work on a R53 or we would have been able to lend you the kit (with a deposit of course).

It's likely you'll want the 4412E kit which is meant for the M14x1.25 threads on your head and 44111 inserts. It's not too complicated and as MINIFatherFigure stated, just be sure to grease up the step tap real well and it'll catch a lot of the chips that come off your head.

Good luck!
 
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Old Aug 27, 2014 | 08:07 PM
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Oh, and just be slow with it and take your time working it in, no power tools are needed.
 
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Old Aug 28, 2014 | 12:54 AM
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Alright, I'm convinced I should try the time-sert repair.

Does anyone have a Time-Sert 4412E kit (for the M14x1.25 threads) I could borrow?

I'd be happy to pay a deposit and any shipping costs.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2014 | 12:18 AM
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Update: I successfully repaired my car yesterday with a time-sert!

Thanks to everyone for all your help!
 
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Old Aug 31, 2014 | 01:00 PM
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Nice job !! Did you have any problems or was smooth sailing ?
 
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Old Aug 31, 2014 | 02:34 PM
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TIME-SERT is really easy to use. Good job!
 
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Old Aug 31, 2014 | 03:42 PM
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Excellent. I finally read up on them and it looks like a good solution. My oil pan threads gave up due to the OEM oil temp gauge (which has all of three threads). I replaced it with a full length bolt, but would be nice to have the oil temp gauge actually work!

alistaircookie, did you end up borrowing or buying a kit?
 
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Old Sep 1, 2014 | 11:38 PM
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I didn't have any major problems.

Mostly it took me a little while to realize I should use a socket on the wrench, and not the supplied handle. And the seat cutter was difficult to remove.

Otherwise, oddly smooth sailing. Apparently I had just enough metal left after the previous repair to cut new threads.

I posted about my experience here:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...il-repair.html
 
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Old Sep 1, 2014 | 11:41 PM
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I ended up buying a Time-sert 14mm x 1.25 extended kit (Part 4412E) and a package of five inserts.

I am thinking of trying to sell the kit eventually. But I think I might hold onto it for a while, just in case I need it again.
 
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Old Sep 2, 2014 | 12:16 AM
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Originally Posted by alistaircookie
I ended up buying a Time-sert 14mm x 1.25 extended kit (Part 4412E) and a package of five inserts.

I am thinking of trying to sell the kit eventually. But I think I might hold onto it for a while, just in case I need it again.
At a minimum, you could sell the +1 insert.
Thanks sharing the story. Makes me itchy to fix my oil pan.
 
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