I just bough a 2004 Cooper S with the John Cooper Works option. It has a few defects and was hoping someone may have some insight and knowledge to share.


1st issue, mushrooms under the hood. Does any one know a fix for this. I have heard to use a mallet and a 2x4 to bang it out and them buy strut tower brace or strut tower reinforcement blocks. Does the 2x4 thing work or is there a better way.


2nd issue, over heating while idling. Turns out the car was just low on coolant. I refilled and we will have to wait to see if there is a leak or not.


3rd issue, squeaking noise when turning at slow speeds. When I am driving slow and turning there is an odd squeaking noise that sound like rubber being mashed and twisted together. It's hard to explain, I may have to do a sound clip.


There are a few other minor details but I will have to drive the car again to remember what they are.


Does anyone know the best place to get a replacement manual shifter box bezel/trim?


Thanks.




-Gunner

 

The 2004 would be an R50, so you might get more answers in the R50 section.

 

Turns out I have an R53. It is a MC40, 40th Anniversary Monty Carlo Limited edition #546 of 1000. I am stoked.






-Gunner

 

There is a lot of information on many of the issues you will encounter in NAM. The search engine works very well, however, right at this time there is another active thread asking the same question about strut tower mushrooming. Giving the benefit of the doubt, yes, the 2 X 4 and strut tower plate is the proscribed method. Squeaky noises can come from a variety of sources. Best bet is to have a good independent shop give your car a thorough inspection. How many miles on the clock, any mods and what kind are handy things to know for offering help. I'd sure want to know the condition and age of all the normal wear bits too including belt, all fluids, pads and discs, etc.

 

All right, lots of news incase anyone is interested. I need new shock and strut mounts and the coolant expansion tank seal is damaged and it leaks. That solves all the mechanical issue with the car but unfortunately I am realizing the car may not be lowered, once the strut mounts are replaced it will probably sit much higher, lol.



I am getting my chrome GB, MC40 stem caps and shifter trim in the mail next week.


Fun stuff.


-Gunner

 

Those are common service items and border on a 'right of passage'.
Two things to keep in mind: Regardless of OEM propaganda, change the oil and rotate the tires at the same time at 5K intervals and at least weekly, a full preflight; fluids, tire pressure and beer fridge (for post flight debriefing).

 

After you fix your mushrooming, make sure to get some strut tower defenders / strut bar to prevent it happening again.

But keep in mind they're not all created equal. You have to remove the bar (no matter the design) to change the oil. Some are easier to remove than others. Some don't remove fully.

I have the VIP set and it's awesome ($279 USD - came with the car when I bought it). Scroll down on this page until you get to the R53 section:
http://www.vipcustomparts.com/suspension%20parts.htm


Overheating can be multiple issues. As you mentioned, keep an eye on the level. If you don't know when the thermostat was last changed, it's worth doing that (make sure to get the correct gasket and use it properly). The thermostat housing/gasket is a common leak point.

Your squeaks may be coming from your suspension, or the low ride height may be rubbing your tires against the inside of the wheel well.

 

I found the leak. It's the reservoir. I can hear it leaking from the pressure. That's where I'm starting anyway. I will probably replace the thermostat anyway just to have it done.

 

I went to one of the local parts stores looking for a generic expansion tanks and struck out, to no surprise. One of the parts guys said it sounds like I have another leak and that having pressure coming from my expansion tank wouldn't leak coolant, just pressure. I don't think he understood how the cooling system works on a MINI and thought it was more like a over flow reservoir which is different (correct me if I am wrong).


So any way, I will tell the story of what is going on.......
I fill the coolant up and let the car run until it reaches normal operating temperature and top of as needed, I also fill the radiator through the vent plug to speed things up. If I drive the car locally everything is fine. If I drive for over 30 minutes or so it loses coolant, enough coolant will remain in the system so when I am moving the car stays at normal temp. (so at no point does the car run completely dry). At this point of I stop and the car idles it will begin to overheat until I begin to drive, or rev the engine above 2.3k, at which point the car will cool down and stay cool until I stop and idle again.


Note, the expansion tank does release pressure after I stop. I can't hear it when the engine is running because the engine is much louder. The expansion tank cap is designed to release pressure at a certain psi but I don't know what that is and if that happens under normal operation. There is a bulge/some sort of damage on the tank.


Here is where I am going to start.
1) replace expansion tank
2) rent cooling system tester and test for leaks
3) ??


My question is, if the expansion tank is defective would there be coolant leaking?


Thanks.


-Gunner

 

the seal in the tank gives way bc its 2 plastic pieces sandwiched and sonic welded together. this breaks over time and heat, causing said leak.

if its still leaking beyond that check thermostat. ive read thats next most common leak point.

just try and find a used tank. then spray it with high temp silicone paint; its what i did. good $5 insurance i think. mine is still in great shape at 110k.

 

I was thinking about just pulling out the tank I have and rebuilding it over the holiday weekend. I still want the aluminum one from ProMINI
or a similar one piece, but that will have to wait until after the 15% pulley kit.


After reading a few threads (like I should have done first) I found out #3, assuming repairing/replacing the expansion tank doesn't fix the leak........


2) rent cooling system tester and test for leaks
3) tear car apart looking for leak (not the fun part)
4) fix leak.
5) go have fun test driving car (that's the fun part)


Diagnostic tools that will help when tracking a coolant leak....


Coolant Pressure Tester



Video scope

This tool could save us MINI owners a lot of unnecessary time and labor




I still wonder if someone know if the expansion tank would leak coolant? Or does it just leak pressure? (thanks in advance for your help, this is the question that is causing me anxiety)


-Gunner

 

Sometimes the tanks will leak on the back side where you cannot see it easily. Seeps out over time. Check the seam all the way around. I would inspect that and the thermostat housing and thermostat. Looks for leaks around the thermostat housing on the side of the block. Thermostat comes with a new cap also, encase that's an issues also.

Here are some options from OEM to Forge Alloy.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/17137529273/



&&

Thermostat Replacement Kit 11537596787KT

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/11537596787KT/



Thanks and good luck with the new MC40.

 

What does the car car sound like when idling?
Beyond the "egg beater" sc sound, any other odd noise?
To have a car OK at rpm, but overheat at idle sounds like it could be water pump issue...or maybe just an airbubble (common without bleeding the cooling system...the s has 2 bleed valves) or maybe cause you cannot build any psi cause the tank leaks and or a bad cap....

And YES, a resiviour may leak coolant, or just pressure....depends on the place of the leak...
See how the seam on the tank (in the ecs picture) is right at the max line....
I would toss a new tank and cap on it ASAP... Might be partially a cap Issue...
Look around for whiteish residue from drying leak coolant....many folks neglect the mini's cooling system...it needs to be drained/flushed filled every 36-48 months....remember...we have a CASTIRON BLOCK....it corrodes... And chunks of rust can plug things...usually the heater core to start...then the seal on the oil cooler fails and the head gasket.....

 

Why do you have to remove it to change your oil?

 

bc the strut bar is in the way to be able to reach down and grab the oil filter.
although some guys at shops will go from under the car i think sometimes.

 

P.S.
The "squeek" sound you hear at low speeds is likely the steering wheel shaft u-joint...
They tend to wear and fail....a bit of lube should extend its life and stop the squeek.
Other place to look is the rubber bushings on the top of the front struts...those can wear and tear...making some noise.

 

I would if it means you have to remove the strut bar each time.

 

On the VIP, it takes less than 1 minute to remove the 4 allen head screws. That's why I love that design.

There's no way I'm going to grab the filter from underneath. Not only would it be impossible to put a wrench on (and remove the filter), but the angle and proximity to the exhaust (and deflector) makes that a batshitcrazy idea.

 

The squeaking went away from the new struts and mounts. I suspect it was the old mount turning inside of it's self. Just a few days ago it started on the other side. I think it just needs some more grease in the right spot, I am going to disassemble, re-grease, then check for noise.