So I have an '05 R53...... my drivers side door wont open from the inside, pulled door panel off today and from what I can tell the cable must have stretched out since I dont see anything hanging out...... does anyone know how to replace this cable? Second issue started yesterday. Driving, everything seems fine and then my car all of a sudden goes to 1/2 power.... Check engine light comes on, EML and some other light. I turn off the car and start back up works fine only the check engine light is on. This has happened several times today. Sometimes the check engine light will turn off. Anybody have any ideas there? I'm calling the shop tomorrow to get an oil change and have other regular maintenance items checked.

I'm a little frustrated with this car, traded it in since driving a truck over 60 miles each day for work was getting a bit expensive and its been one thing after another. So any ideas, ways to fix somethings myself would be greatly appreciated.

 

I can't help you with the door pull; I have no experience at this point with it.

As for your car going into "limp mode" you need to be careful at this point.
There will be codes that need to be "read" and that will help diagnose the problem. It could be as easy as a sensor, it could be as bad as catastrophic internal engine damage. Either way, no idea until the code is read. You can pick up your own OBDII reader or go to a shop and they'll pull the code for you.

The first gen cars are not cheap to keep on the road, but in some cases if you pick up a Bentley manual you may be able to fix the problem yourself.

If you haven't already, check your oil and make sure to check it every week or so.

 

Door problem is the Bowden cable. it has either stretched or the end right behind the manual door lock lever has popped out. I just popped my 05s back in on Monday. Remove the door panel, follow the cable from the handle to behind the manual lock lever. Remove the manual lock lever, so you can see were the end of the cable is. Should have a green plastic piece that snaps into the latch mechanism. Sometimes they pop out of that. If it has not order a new cable.

Limp mode. Have only had it once in 332,000+ miles on my 03 and it was due to a bad plug wire. So check those.

Good Luck,

Nik

 

taking car in next week for oil change and a look over. i mentioned the noise and the lights coming on. today no noise, only light thats been on recently has been the battery light for only a minute or so yesterday. oil level was fine. i will take to advanced auto/auto zone to see if they can run a diagnostic test. lil tired of fixing things!

 

ok i will check the plugs today. hoping its something simple. i checked what i thought was the bowden cable...... i think i looked at the wrong cable. ugh! will recheck that. thanks for the suggestions! hopefully all of this is an easy fix, trying to save up for a move across country and i need this lil car to make it

 

car died on the way home. in the shop. on way home lost majority of power EML and check engine light came one. turned off the car, restarted and only went about 20ft before it happened again. after 5 times i gave up. once i hear what is wrong i will post for those who experience the same thing.

 

Batt light on for a minute? Crank pulley gone on permanent vacation, perhaps?
These lil cars need to be understood, pampered & they will reciprocate. Almost if not all its flaws are known & have been addressed by updated OE or improved aftermarket. There are many high mile, well cared for gen1s that are running like or better than new. Have patience & try finding joy in the challenge to nurse it back up to its feet.

 

Wondering if it is the pulley since there was a high pitch noise coming from that side intermittently. I bought the car used last year so I have no idea if the previous owner took car of things. Any suggestions on aftermarket mods to help this lil thing run for a long time? I dont mind pampering if I know what I should do..... my toyota truck didnt need any pampering so this is all new to me!! I love this car, enjoy driving it on the country roads to work.

 

Whenever I buy used, I start fresh w/ new fluids. Oil, coolant, brake fluid, tranny & w/ the MINI, even fresh CHF11s Power Steering fluid. I never rely on service records. Use top tier petrol too. 93octane up.
Known weaknesses of R53 (most or all are DIYable):
-Crank Pulley. Change to ATI Super Damper.
-Belt tensioner. Swap every few years w/ $80 Gates from Amazon
-Lower Control Arm, swaybar bushes. Go Powerflex. When doing these w/ subframe off, do the ball joints, PS hose clamps & PS fluid change.
-install Cravenspeed or VIP strut tower reinforcement plates.
-low speed cooling fan. Do the resistor mod or bypass the low speed resistor. There's a sticky on this
-check potential leaks from the ff:
Thermostat
Crank position sensor o-ring behind the radiator
Oil pan gasket
Heat exchanger under the oil filter
Power steering cap O-ring & hose clamps
Coolant Expansion Tank splits. Swap w/ Canton or RMW w/ real caps

All these aren't really difficult to do. There are many threads that discuss these in-depth.

 

First thing I'd do is wait until the diagnosis comes back.
It could be a $300 problem or a $6000 problem.

 

Well, damn! haha. ok that will get me started. thanks for the info. I shouldve taken it to the shop to have it checked over and fluids changed when I bought it but figured the dealership i bought it from wouldve...... i'm gonna learn alot more about cars owning a mini for sure.

 

definitely waiting obviously until i get the car back since maybe what is wrong is something on that list. no idea. getting anxious waiting for this phone call.

 

You don't have to hurry & do all in 1 take, of course. Haha. I tackled them as budget allowed, if they weren't immediately needed. You can start by gathering parts & gradually doing them.

 

I sure did learn.
I payed my $16,000 idiot tax for not understanding that a car can invisibly consume 3L of oil in 3000kms (spun a conrod bearing -Check that oil level often).

...But now I know how to replace an engine in an 05! I'm not scared of working on this car now - that's for sure.

If you want to learn even more, spend a lot of time in the first gen forums and read as much as you can.

 

cool. i'm trying to save to move across country, guess its good that whatever broke, it broke now not 1k miles into my move. i checked oil a month or so ago, i think low oil may have played a possible role based on a smell when i opened my hood yesterday. the oil sensor never came on though..... idk. will start with fixing my door and then some of the cheaper stuff. def will be spending time in the 1st gen forums now.

 

Minitorque, motoring*lliance , motoringunderground are good forums to visit. Remember to enjoy the journey!

 

So the list of things wrong: harmonic balancer, belt, tension assembly, valve cover gasket, right inner boot, both front tires & air filter. So the 1st 4 things listed are big and def caused all the problems. For all $2200 but waiting on tires (gonna replace all 4) and can do the air filter myself. Any suggestions on tires?

 

ATI super damper- $349 + new OE crank bolt from Way
Axle boot-pelican has decent replacements (empi or gkn loebro) for less than $20.
Valve cover gasket-$40ish from Way
Can't seem to add up to $2200 even w/ tires, CAI & labor. These are all DIYable.

 

Damn. Depends on if you want to run summers and winters or all seasons. I have Michelin's Ultra High Performance A/S Plus's and love them. They are great in the dry, rain and snow, but do get a little slidey (predictably I might add) in very cold weather. Just make sure you don't get runflats they suck and make the ride much harsher.

Mark.

 

If I had the time patience & proper place I prolly would try. I will be upgrading things & working on them myself. Just glad that I didn't destroy my engine since I was out of oil due to the leak.

 

Heck...tires...
you have to pick...grippy and short lived...
or less grippy but longer lasting....overall cheaper, but less fun...depneds on the driver and driving style...
then add your climate....
A touring tire might be perfect for some, a high performance all season, a uhp or a summer and winter set for others!!
A set of (cooper)Zenons are cheap safe rubber, some generals perform better, for slightly more...and you go go all the way up to a Michelin....priced from about $75 to about $170 Each... so huge variety!!
Not knowing HOW or where you drive....or even the size (you have stock 16 or 17...)..hardto make a suggestion...

 

Proper tools, ramps, jackstands, a scangauge2, Bentley manual will be investments you won't regret. Resulting savings will mean more mods!!!!

 

I live in NC; very hot summers & pretty cold winters. I don't race around corners at 60mph. I plan on driving across country to CA next yr so I need the tires to last. Not sure if this info helps. Should I go run flats or no?

 

Run flats will punish you & your suspension.

 

Alrighty...... Don't want that. With this fix I've been punished enuf!