Hi guys i'm new to the forum and based in rainy Ireland,i just bought a 2007 r56 cooper and im having terrible problems with it

It doesnt idle smoothly very lumpy..... fine above 1000rpm and goes like **** off a shovel when moving at motorway speed...

The orange EML is on also....

I hooked it up to a code reader and got 2 faults

o2 sensor circut bank 1 sensor 1

and cyl 1 misfire


i ran seafoam through it although prob no point as this is a non S so they dont suffer as much from carbon buildup or maybe not ? is this correct ?


also
i replaced all the coil packs

and the pre cat o2 sensor to no avail now its throwing even more codes up

o2 sensor circut bank 1 sensor 1

cyl 1 and 3 misfire

02 sensor negative current control circut/open bank 1 sensor 1


thing is it drives fine except when at idle i do notice a slight hesitation when stepping on the accelarator pedal until the engine responds put this down to the FBW tho

any help guys would be great as i feel like a fool afer just buying the damm car

 

UPDATE

checked the plugs today all look nice and clean a nice tan colour with no pitting
i removed the lambda sensors both.... and cleaned them
i topped up the engine oil as level was lowish
i sealed the flange between the cold air intake and the airfilter housing which was loose

i also ran a can of Cataclean through it incase the seafoam had clogged up the cat

i cleared the codes and touch wood she seems fine gona take her for a thrashing now hope this has sorted the issue....seems all to easy tho....nothins ever that handy....lol

 

No luck bad idle again this time codes are
P0030 HEATER CONTROL CIRCUIT BANK 1 SENSOR 1

AND

P0301 CYLINDER 1 MISFIRE DETECTED

i also noticed an OL fault in the fuel system any one know what this is ?



can any body see any other errors on these diagnostics ?

 

Crankshaft sensor connection needs cleaning?

 

Thx great video man....i was thinking crank sensor myself even today i had that lag when i went on the gas pedal then slight jerking reminded me of a crank sensor on my e46 3 series...my question is tho would the crank sensor not flag a separate code up and could it affect the 02 sensor readings ?

thanks for the replies keep em comming guys always easier to solve a problem with help

 

Well, you might try moving parts from 2-4 cylinders into the #1 to see if the problem follows any of the original #1 parts.

I know when the crank sensor fails, the engine won't run, but other symptoms dependent upon that sensor are throwing codes so it is still worth investigating, IMHO.

 

Thx man for the reply i've ordered a new crank sensor just in case today i replaced the pre cat 02 sensor for a 14000 mile one from a breakers thankfully the 02 sensor errors are gone and the open loop fuel fault now just that damm misfire

i'm getting two codes and misfires across multiple cylinders now same codes i've ruled out plugs and coils as plugs look new nice tan deposits and no pitting

coils are all new also







where is the crank sensor located on a justa cooper 2007 ?

 

Where is the CPS located on this car? I found videos of older models and the "S" but not the Justa. I will get my Haynes manual out tomorrow, probably not in there tho.

 

the crank sensor is on the geabox bell housing lower right hand side if viewing engine from the front.....
at the end of my tether now with this wee **** of a car costing me a bloody fortune in both time and money not to mention frustration.....

to date

NEW BERU OE PLUGS
NEW COILS
REPLACED BOTH 02 SENSORS
SEAMFOAM TREATMENT
CATACLEAN TREATMENT
INJECTOR CLEANER DIRECT TO THE INLET MANIFOLD/FUEL ADDITIVE
CHECKED FOR VACCUME LEAKS
CHECKED INJECTOR WIRING
CHECKED OIL LEVEL
CHECKED VAVLE COVER FOR CRACKS/LEAKS
RESET ECU

COMPRESSION TESTED

CYL 1-173
CYL 2-174
CYL 3-172
CYL 4-173

I'm fresh outa ideas man

maybe crank/cam sensor but surely that would thro up a separate code directly related to the component that is failing ?

I'm in way over my head now looks like a replacement engine is the way forward by the time i replace everything releated to this misfire i'll have spent near the same money....madness

 

UPDATE

looks like the bstard cyl 1 piston ring is failing....after doing a compression test this morning all came back fine however after removing the plugs again today to check the gap no 1 cylinder plug is full of oil on the tip- engine side nightmare at least now i know why its misfring....solutions,fixes anyone ?

 

Leak down test? Ominous about the oil on the plug,...

 

aye looks like it man...thing is it runs fine no smoke or burning oil also seems to only happen when shes warm after 30 mins of driving...when i did the compression test this morning after about 15 mins driving she was fine.....sure is a strange wee car......looks expensive now whatever way i look at it......do i do the rings,valves,head gasket,head bolts,skim and the usual stuff or just buy a replacement motor.....for a wee engine like this i dont think its worth stripping.....what do you think guys ?

 

Not so fast :

It's easy to learn if you need a valve seat and guide job before the heads are removed. Have a buddy follow you as you're driving 60 mph. Completely remove your foot from the throttle. If he sees smoke from your exhaust, your valve guides are loose. Do a dry compression test and write the numbers. (CYL 1-173,CYL 2-174,CYL 3-172,CYL 4-173) Remove the spark plugs and shoot two squirts of clean 30 weight oil in each spark plug hole. Spin the motor with the starter before doing the wet compression test. The compression numbers should all go up. If one or more cylinders does not, it means you have a valve face or seat problem in that cylinder.

Also, is it possible that the valve cover leaks in the area near the #1 sparkplug, dripping into the hole making the plug wet? Can the Mini leak there like some other engines do?

 

How goes it doctor?

 

Hi guys been working on this for weeks now still no joy RockAZ.......

Compression test came back ok as did the leakdown test so it would seem the engine is not at fault after all.

still running like a bag o sh*te bad idle and now it is chugging and stuttering in all gears under acceleration,it also cut out yesterday at traffic lights........

Today i replaced the crank sensor as the symptoms above replicate that......still no joy at least its not stalling now..........

Dont know where to go with this wee bast*rd now im out of ideas again lol......

the only thing left i can think of is ECU/DME or dirty injectors i cant keep replacing bits here and there tho lol ASOLUTE MADNESS never had trouble like this with any other car man..........

 

Still not convinced the engine is ok......regardless of the tests......take a look at this video....only does this when revved hard does it once than no more smoke is present even at hard loads and high revs......could this just be unburnt fuel from the misfire ? or does it look like water vapour ? i realized the car was losing water when last month the temp light came on and i had to top up the water not much but still.........seems to be losing a very tiny amount each week had to top up again last week like 100ml....


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hiDr...ature=youtu.be

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hiDr...ature=youtu.be

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hiDr...ature=youtu.be

 

Still thinking a block / cylinder head problem or head gasket i tested the compression again today plugs removed and dry and got totally different readings from the last test..... possible as my mates guage is old i used a newish one this time around.......looks very odd....seems way too high and a differential between 2+4 any ideas anyone

CYL 1-205
CYL 2-218
CYL 3-205
CYL 4-225

CYL 1




CYL 2





CYL 3





CYL 4

 

Steadily getting worse now misfiring on at least two cylinders just drove 200 miles in it running like a bag of crap.......i was thinking head gasket or cracked head but i managed 200 mile with heat in the cabin,no coolant loss or smoke from the exhaust......i really dont know where to go next man......only thing left is ECU/DME...........

 

As you know, I'm working an identical issue on my stock 2008 Cooper Base. I have also posted here: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post3950040

Some folks are thinking the timing chain and tensioner could be in need of replacement. Have you tried replacing yours yet?

Ed

 

The symptoms are changing, I suppose that is a plus, you are doing something positive. The compression and the leak down test both indicate good valves?

Switching the coils around did not change or improve the problem?

Does your model have injectors? Switch them around too.

Well, as the other fellow just mentioned in his post, the fuel rail pressure was eliminated as a possible cause on his, you might run the same test.

Sure, the timing chain should be measured as well.

 

Managed to sort the major issues out now with the new cam sensors still a slight wee misfire at idle once it's warmed up gonna replace the Ecu/Dme tommoro to rule out a software issue.........got a cheap injector rail too gonna try that also.......

 

Good to hear. Let me know how that works out for you. I pulled my top cam sensor and cleaned/replaced it. The car ran 100% better. I ordered a new sensor to try that.

Can you explain exactly where the bottom sensor is located?

Let me know how well the ECU change works out too.

Good luck

 

Hey man.....the crank sensor is a pain to get to best from under the car make sure you have a good torch,it's under a silver plastic cover that looks like part of the gearbox bell housing I missed it a few times follow the wires,just beside the starter wires near the driveshaft comming out of the engine,single torx bolt....... think where the gearbox and engine join that will give you a good idea where to position yourself ......... the cover is also a pain to replace ..........running much better now still a rough idle tho when she warms up........so complete ecu transplant tommoro from an updated 2010 model........seemingly BMW have recognised an issue with pre 2009 r56 ecu/Dmes losing their map.........spoke to a mate who works for BMW sure is eye opening.........he also showed me a technical bulletin regarding misfires and bad idle on pre 2009 r56 coopers.......they were told to check.......injectors..........timing.........fuel pressure or ecu/dme............