Downpipe leak and influx boost
During my install I damaged one of my turbo housings screw, there Is a possibility it's leaking right at the mounting point; would this cause boost to slowly be lost?
I will be driving along with the same force on the pedal and the boost slowly decreases not necessarily one by one though. I'm curious as I've never really payed attention to it.
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I will be driving along with the same force on the pedal and the boost slowly decreases not necessarily one by one though. I'm curious as I've never really payed attention to it.
Sent from phone
So I'm not getting anything so let me rephrase the question. Should boost remain the Same constant number when your foot is applying the same amount of pressure, not counting for shifts
No, unless your RPM, resistance, and other factors are identical. Holding steady as RPM drops will cause your boost to drop off as well. Holding a constant acceleration (continuously moving the pedal to adjust for such) will keep the boost relatively constant.
And a leak at the downpipe connection will not cause your boost to drop off by itself. At that point, it has already spun the hotside of the turbo. Is the leak there or somewhere else?
And a leak at the downpipe connection will not cause your boost to drop off by itself. At that point, it has already spun the hotside of the turbo. Is the leak there or somewhere else?
It's where the downpipe meets the actual turbo or where the gasket is. One of the nuts stripped and the gasket isn't sealing completely.
Is it possible the turbo isn't getting enough exhaust to keep the boost?
Is it possible the turbo isn't getting enough exhaust to keep the boost?
No. The turbine is BEFORE this point. It's not possible. You could have an exhaust leak and you are placing more stress on the remaining two bolts...
Agreed. This will not affect your boost output. It may melt soft (plastic) components in the area though if you are blasting them with 1600F or higher temp exhaust gases due to the leak.
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If you strip the inside of the hole, use a bolt and nut on other end.
I was able to get the bolt about a quarter of the way in with the nut. It's torqued to 30lbs but even then it's not that tight, it was the best I could do
It wasn't the bolt and nut- I got new ones from the dealer, it was the threading inside the turbo part.
Ah, ok. I was worried about that when I had to take my DP out. You have the option of retapping.
I apologize for bringing up an old thread, but did you ever find a solution?
I may be in a similar boat with my DP not properly tightened to the turbo housing.
Wouldn't a leak at that point cause a loss in backpressure velocity, thus not opening the wastegate as much as it should?
I have no power when flooring it in third gear at 2K and my gas mileage has gone to sh*t. I suspect either the leak can cause my issue or my fuel pump may be on the way out.
I may be in a similar boat with my DP not properly tightened to the turbo housing.
Wouldn't a leak at that point cause a loss in backpressure velocity, thus not opening the wastegate as much as it should?
I have no power when flooring it in third gear at 2K and my gas mileage has gone to sh*t. I suspect either the leak can cause my issue or my fuel pump may be on the way out.
I apologize for bringing up an old thread, but did you ever find a solution? I may be in a similar boat with my DP not properly tightened to the turbo housing. Wouldn't a leak at that point cause a loss in backpressure velocity, thus not opening the wastegate as much as it should? I have no power when flooring it in third gear at 2K and my gas mileage has gone to sh*t. I suspect either the leak can cause my issue or my fuel pump may be on the way out.
I don't have a solution. But I ended up not having a leak in the downpipe. A leak in the downpipe would certainly melt anything it's coming into contact with. IE. I forgot to put the O2 sensor back in closed can't remember if I closed the hood but it melted it.
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