Hi Guys, recently had our HPFP replaced on a 11plate Cooper S with 38k miles.
All well for two days. Half shaded yellow engine light returned. Taken to two dealers who have cleared the code but problem still persists.
Is there a diagnostic tool we can buy for the R60 to check error codes ?
All the ones listed on various web pages only cover Mini to R56.
Thanks in advance

 

First thing you should know is not all code readers (ScanGauge, Torque App and Dash Command) are capable of reading 100% percent of Mini's codes. Most of us use the three above, if you have the Torque App or Dash Command on your iPhone or Android devices together with a Bluetooth OBD2 device plugged into your Mini's OBD2 port you can read most of the codes.

You could always visit your local auto parts store (Autozone) they will scan your ECU for free.

Hope you get things sorted out.

 

Guys just to let you know this statement above had nothignto do with the HPFP because i sorted it out. It was genuinely a bad MAP sensor issue, i replaced the MAP sensor and all is ok!

Now let me also add to this thread that i smell petrol from the exhaust when i start the engine, the revs are not stable but if i stop the engine and restart it it works like a charm and revs are normal.

 

I hate to revive an old thread here, but I am having some issues I think are related to my HPFP.

Cold start (after sitting overnight), is OK. It doesn't start right away, but will start and run. After it reaches operating temp, then it displays the normal symptoms.
I don't have any lights/codes, so it's not going to be an obvious thing.
I do have a code reader that does live data, and the fuel pressure when it's actually running is around 7-800 psi(48 to 55bar). At higher load/RPMs it can get as high as 1600psi(110bar).
After shutting it off while hot, and while trying to crank, pressure never gets back above 100psi(~6.5bar). It may, maybe, might crank again after feathering the throttle, but that's rare.

So, does this fit having a bad HPFP?
BTW it's at 49k miles.

 

I got the check engine light and misfire codes, and the fuel pressure was checked by the dealer not me (they said it was okay), but all your other symptoms with cold and hot starts and sometimes getting it to start hot by feathering the throttle match my HPFP failure symptoms in my R55S around 55,000 miles. The HPFP warranty was extended to 10 years and 120,000 miles for some vehicles.

 

What is the possible cause?

 

Does anyone know what the psi would be at the rail pressure sensor while cranking? I have a no starting and have 125Psi while cranking . Tested fuel pump it has 72Psi. Should the Fuel rail show 750Psi at cranking? or is that only at idle?

 

I wanted to give everyone an update on this. I finally have gotten the R56 running!
It was the low pressure (in-tank) fuel pump. Since the car had been sitting for over 3 years, I guess it had gotten some water in the bottom of the pump and rusted it. Or what ever. I was able to get a low mileage pump from a wrecker, I changed my new filter over, and all is good.

@jetsr6, I think that your pressure from the low side pump should be ok. The scan tool that I have doesn't update quick enough to show what the pressure is while cranking, so I can't answer. Also, there isn't a schrader valve that I can see. I will say, while idling now, I get around 800psi (high side). Before all of this, it was only getting up to about 650 at idle.

Also, @ everyone. Make sure that the o-ring that seals the filter housing is fitted correctly. It can move very easily while reassembling and cause a headache. Use lots of vaseline to make things go back together easily. I missed this (it fell into the housing) and the car wouldn't even start.

 

This is my first post , so hello everyone
sorry for my english- google translator....
For several weeks, I have a problem with the engine . On a cold wave speed and after a few seconds the car enter into Safe Mode , and then everything is ok. On the hot engine , without undulations rotation immediately jumps into emergency mode . After turning off the car and turned on again , the error disappears. A few weeks ago I changed the clutch and dual-mass wheel - maybe mechanic did something wrong with the engine, or is it a coincidence and just gets off me HPFP? Any suggestions? Below I give the link

 

Need to scan OBD for codes as first step.

 

Hello.
The mechanic says that the starting gasoline engine flooding . That may be the fault of bad supply air- tomorrow replacement throttle. I bought ICAR and WIFI OBD:
error codes: P2C01, P2BE9

 

Post #15 of this thread says that code 2C01 means bad high pressure fuel pump. So maybe bad HPFP..? Bad HPFP is very common on the turbocharged N14 engine used in the R55, R56. They can fail with only 40,000 miles, sometimes less sometimes more. Here in the USA the HPFP has an extended 10 year 120,000 mile warranty for some cars, not all cars.

 

I live in Europe. The Mini cars and the parts are the same , but European warranty for HPFP is two years, not 10.
My car has a new one HPFP. The throttle is the same . Low pressure pump tested and gives 5.5 bar . Unfortunately, all the symptoms are still the same . Does anyone have any ideas what to check or replace ?

 

2005 mini i noticed some hesitation on acceleration a couple days ago now car cranks but wont start. i pushed shrader valve on fuel rail and no pressure at all i disconected fuel line and no pressure and very little fuel came out i turned key to on and no fuel came out car has quarter tank

 

On my 2010 I had exactly the same experience as neonsteve. Cold start stalls, misfire codes. Once warm it ran ok. A little light on midrange and top end acceleration, a little more pop and gurgle than normal. On my 2009 it was a more catastrophic. One moment it was running fine (again looking back it also was a little light on power and had a little more pop and gurgle than normal when decelerating). It went into limp home mode while sitting at a light. I did not stop and drove in limp home mode straight to the dealer. Both cases the HPFP was replaced under warranty no questions asked. After replacing the power comes back like when the car was new again.

 

Not sure if this is what my problem is but I just bought a 2008 Clubman S last week. I travelled about 200 miles to look at it. Everything seemed well, it drove great, came with the past service records, etc. About 45 miles into the drive home the half full CEL came on while cruising at 70 or 75 down the highway. I stopped at the next gas and the car didn't seem to idle any different. After I got back on the road it didn't feel like I was driving an S anymore.... but other than a lack of the previous HP it had wheb I test drove it, everything was the same.

I ordered a diagnostic tool that'll be here tomorrow. I tried a few mechanics in town and neither of their tools would read the OBD II... and the closest MINI dealer to me is a little over 1.5 hours away. Anyways, today I started the car and the CEL was off. I took it for a drive and could tell the HP was back to normal. The first time I accelerated when turning on the highway I got it up to about 5k RPM, the same CEL came back on so I let off and carefully drove home. Also, when the CEL is on it randomly seems like it misses after I shift and begin accelerating again, but it's random.

Is it a bad idea to keep driving it with the CEL on? I'm kind of hoping it leads up to the HPFP so I can get it replaced for free, but won't know until I get my tool tomorrow and can scan it. I want to know what codes it's throwing before taking it all the way to the dealer because I know they'll have to get a HPFP code in order to do the repair.

 

I thought I would add my experience with the HPFP, although I haven't replaced mine as of yet. ( where's some wood?)

I haven't had any cold start issues. What I have encountered is heat soak issues though. And the ability to fix the fuel pressure instantly, while the car is running.

I have my Bluetooth adapter and my Torque app running and logging when doing this.

Scenario #1
I'll drive the car for a while and then make a quick stop for some reason, let's say I run into the store, so maybe 10 minutes or so. Fuel pressure at idle is ~700psi and will hit ~1,600psi when driving.

When I come back out, I start the car and it stumbles and barely runs. Fuel pressure is ~150psi. If I keep feathering the pedal, it will eventually come back to normal and be fine.

Scenario #2
I start the car and let it idle. Fuel pressure is ~700psi. After idling for a while and everything reaches operating temperatures, fuel pressure will suddenly drop to ~150psi and it will idle rough. The reduced power light then comes on. I use my Torque app and clear the codes in the ECU and immediately the fuel pressure jumps back up to ~700psi and everything is fine.

This makes me think that the ECU is actually holding the fuel pressure bypass valve open for some reason, but why?
Or is the fuel pressure bypass valve just sticking and the ECU kicks it during a code reset?

My car is torn down right now while I do a ton of work on it, but one of the things I'm testing is insulating the fuel pressure bypass valve from heat. I picked up some Thermo-Tec adhesive backed heat barrier and I wrapped the fuel pressure bypass valve with it. It'll be a cheap experiment at least.

I'd like to get my hands on a used pump if anyone replaces theirs and wants to donate it.

 

I have been having a nightmare of a time with my 09 Clubman S, similar to what's being talked about here and probably worse. I've had this car for 6 months and it's been the worst car I've ever owned for 5 of those months.

To start in the morning regardless of temperature I have to apply pressure to the accelerator. Sometimes this works and it shoots up to 3000 RPM where I can hold it long enough to warm up, and other times it just stalls. Once the car gets moving it will either feel like it has half power, jerk real bad like it's getting gas and then not getting gas, or will backfire and smoke. Turning it off and back on is like getting in a completely different car. It will run smooth, have plenty of power, and stop smoking. I have had it to BMW twice and they have assured me that the HPFP is fine (I seriously doubt it, but whatever), and after talking to the guys at Detroit Tuned I decided to swap out my coils. While it's running stronger with new coils, it still doesn't want to start. I've tried injector cleaner, resetting the ECU, changing the plugs, and made sure everything was connected and clean. Nothing works. I am getting misfire codes in all 4 cylinders and occasionally the check engine light will flash at me indicating a misfire.

Any help would be much appreciated as I am losing my mind.

 

It sounds like the ecu isn't enriching the fuel air mixture when the engine is cold. maybe you have a bad temperature sensor.

I'm surprise that Detroit Tuned didn't figure it out, those guys are usually pretty good at this.

 

In all fairness to Detroit Tuning they are great. They hadn't seen the car, only spoke about it. I have replaced the plastic maze that houses the thermostat. Is there an additional temp sensor outside of that? And how would I test this? Thanks!

 

There isn't another coolant temperature sensor, but even a new one could be bad. You could check yours with a pot of water on a stove and an ohm meter. Here is an article from Pelican parts, with a description of the sensor and it's temperature range.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eplacement.htm

 

If you don't already have one, I would recommend investing in a ODB2 bluetooth adapter and one of the apps you'll see thrown around on here.


I personally use the OBDLink LX adapter along with the Torque Pro app on my Android phone. Others on here are avid fans of Dash Command. I have both but I've had better luck with Torque.


With either app, you can monitor fuel pressure at the rail, which is what you're looking for to diagnose the HPFP problems.
This will also help you diagnose any other sensor readings that may be off, coolant temp being one of them.


For a VERY small investment, you can have loads of helpful information at your fingertips before you even start pulling the car apart and testing anything.

 

I'll jump in here too...I have an '09 R55 JCW with 189K on it. Looks and drives like new, even my local MINI specialist (Auto4N in Cincinnati) said they couldn't believe how nice the car is for the miles on it. Anyway, I've had a similar issue, but mine starts up fine, idles a little rough, but now under acceleration it starts cutting out. I was getting a CEL for the knock sensor so I replaced that, but it's still doing it. It goes into limp mode then back out, then back to limp, then out...but isn't giving me any other codes. I have a Scangauge that also indicates no codes. Sounds similar to some of the HPFP symptoms here but not identical. Before investing $$$ in a pump, I want to make sure that's it. My car is not included in the recall because it's a JCW and because of the mileage. All of the major service items have been replaced including the timing chain at 163K and the turbo at 176K.
Will the Torque App or Dash Command apps discover codes that my Scangauge won't?

Thanks!

 

Same issues here, cold start..some missing on strong pulls ( when your plugs have been changed and the coils are fine). Also, check the fuel filter just to be sure. Then go to the HPFP.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...r-r56-jcw.html

 

I wanted to give an update since my car is back together and I've been driving it for a little while now.

Before, I could replicate my heat soak problem with the HPFP at will. I knew when it would happen and pretty sure I knew why.

After getting it back on the road I can now say that things are WAY better than before. I've only had one short problem with heat soak/no fuel pressure since putting the car back together.

Did the heat barrier help and is it preventing the bypass solenoid from acting up?
I can't say for sure, but that's the only change I made that I can think would've made a difference.

I did speak with my dealer about warranty and why the 2010 models were skipped, and MINI offered to pay 50% of the repair though. Which is still ridiculous. So I'm waiting until I absolutely need it.