It is a 2004 r53 mini cooper S, 105k miles and ran perfect to now. There has been a noise coming from the engine bay similar to this (Not my car but sounds identical) it was not over heating but the sound was getting worse.

So today I dove into it and took of the supercharger. It sounds fine, the PTO was filled with oil, and spun freely. The water pump appears to be stiff and not really wanting to spin freely but there is also still water in it.

I am a little stuck now as I don't know what is the problem and I don't want to start just replacing parts. Any ideas? How stiff should the water pump be? has anyone had the same issues?

 

I can't tell you specifically but unless the pump is a rubber impeller type (and I don't know what BMW is using) it shouldn't have very much resistance to turning at all. A straight centrifugal pump should spin quite freely unless the bearings are failing which could also account for your noise.

 

Did you check the idler pullies? And the tensioner? Alternator and ac compressor are on the same belt...
Also if the bearings are failing inside the sc, it does not affect the oil level...(did you check the "snount" oil level...not just the waterpump PTO?
If I dug deep enough to get to the waterpump....I might just swap it out...would be with it to me cause with my luck, it would start to leak a week after I put the car together.....

 

I would first take a plastic hose and use it as a makeshift stethoscope to locate the vicinity and or source of the noise. My first thought was your idler pulley due to the light metallic rattle sound. Mine self destructed at 70k.

 

Is this what the noise sounds like?!!!

 

sorry... here's the link to my engine noise.... not sure if that is a SC that needs oil or a wp that is shot or if it is normal. I tend to smell coolant from my engine after each drive and the engine does seem to run a little hot.

 

If it's really the SC-WP going, a cost effective alternative would be to retain the charger & swap in an electric water pump. Saves you $$$$ & removes the mechanical pump's parasitic load on your engine. Sprintex kit uses an electric pump like this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DAVIES-CRAIG-DC-8005-ELECTRIC-WATER-PUMP-EWP-80-KIT/360449724255?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222008%26algo%3DSIC.MOTORS%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140107083349%26meid%3D4540428398763832214%26pid%3D100011%26prg%3D20140107083349%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D330877788683

 

Hi. My '03 MCS was doing the same thing. I pulled the SC and both gears were nearly destroyed. I did not get any overheating issue as well. I guess the gears were still making partial contact enabling the water pump to operate. I am working on a Davies Craig water pump which will install on the same location as the stock water pump. This will be installed using the original hoses as well. This setup is cheaper than an overhaul SC and easy to install. The issue with overhauling your SC is that you will still have the same issue a few years later due to water pump drive shaft seal leaking. I will have photos for this set up shortly.

 

Do what Raven Mocker did here:https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-balancer.html

 

My 2002 SC made the exact same noise. This weekend I replaced the water pump, power steering pump and change the oil in the supercharger. I recommend you get a water pump from Pelican and definitely change the oil in your supercharger before you ruin it. The chatter may be that it is out of oil on the water pump side. Mine was dry, but the drive gears were still in great shape. Any longer though and it would have self destructed.

Pelican offers 3 grades of water pumps, buy either the MINI brand or the second one in price (I did). (Sorry but I don't remember the brands) The second pump is made in Germany and has metal impellers. Going by other sources of reviews I don't recommend the cheap pump.

 

This will happen soon. But clutch is first. Then motor mounts.... I love bmw vehicles. They sick you dry of money after 100k

 

If your SC was dry by adding more oil is only going to slow down the problem, if you didn't have any oil left that means that the seals are failing and soon you will need a rebuild, so it would be wise to keep a close eye on the SC.

 

Minibx, I'm in complete agreement. Adding oil was a band aid until I pull the SC and ship it to one of the 3 authorized Eaton rebuilders in the US. The oil didn't leak out, I suspect that antifreeze leaked in and broke down the oil. The oil in the case looked like it turned into Bakelite plastic, so I chipped it out of the case and thoroughly cleaned the case and gears. The gears were fine as was the needle bearing, so it must have happened recently when the water pump was failing.

I'll keep an ear on the SC. I'm hoping to get maybe 15-20K on it before I have it rebuilt.

Regarding Eaton rebuilders. If you go on the Eaton site they list the information for the 3 companies in the US. The source closest to me charges $795 to rebuild the SC with Eaton parts, which is right in line with the other shops using aftermarket components.
Their turnaround time is about 2 days.

 

That's not a bad price at all

 

Of the four Mini SC's I have dealt with, the snout bearings, rotor bearings and seals were all fine (rear needles included), the least miles of the four was 105K. I pull the rear PTO plate, remove the gear from the driven rotor shaft, pop out the old seal and replace with new (shaft OD has always spec'd out, although I give it a light polish). I pressure test the front and rear cavities to be sure, fill with oil and back on the car she goes. Not sure this is everyone's experience but it appears that rear seal is the primary failure and unless major damage has occurred not sure why a full rebuild is warranted unless for peace of mind. I pulled one last week from my 2004 S with 168K (never been touched) and both ends were still full of oil.

 

There's a member here on NAM that sells the end plate with the bearing seal and shaft for $250. That would be a cheap easy to go. I haven't seen any complaints regarding his product. They must be coming out of China because Eaton won't sell parts unless you're authorized rebuilder.

 

Anyone worked with Stiegemeier?
http://stiegemeier.com/services/supe...ld-and-repair/

http://dynobob.websitetoolbox.com/po...oopers-3029413

I see they are one of the "Authorized Eaton Rebuilders"

A "NEW Supercharger" will cost roughly $500 - $600 more. Is a New one worth it?

 

Bump.

Looking for advise here. Some of you have been through this before, so I rely on your experiences.
Should I:

1. Buy a New Supercharger (WMW has one for $1400). He's a reputable guy and if he says it's new, and Genuine MINI then it is.

2. Get a rebuilt one from WMW. ($800ish if memory serves). Anyone know if they rebuild them in house, or send them to a third party?

3. Send the one I have to Steigemeier. They are an Authorized Eaton Rebuilder, so they have access to factory parts which Eaton does not sell otherwise. Their specialty is supercharged Cobra Mustangs; but I'm thinking they would do a fine job with Eaton's M45 on the MINI. (also around $800)

What do you think?

Edit: never mind. Fortunately for me the noise was the altranator, not SC.

 

Can you please tell me where you bought the PTO seal from? A link would be great. Removing the pto gear can you rate how hard and what to watch for as safety precausions.

 

The seal behind the gear in the rear PTO is a Chicago Rawhide CR6203. I bit tough to find but there was a guy in TX selling them on EBay, I grabbed 5 of them, he may still be selling them. If not I think Diane down at Spinning Wheels in FL was trying to procure some. I will post a couple pictures of the puller I modified and used to pull the gear from the shaft. Was quite easy once I had modified the puller, just make a note of the shaft protrusion thru the gear before you pull it so you can drive it back to the same place. Putting the gear back was easy, just lock up the rotors with a clean rag and drive the gear on with the retaining bolt. You will need some Loctite anaerobic gasket maker, a few bucks at the local auto parts store. Total cost was about $35 for the first one that included the cost of the puller. Each one now costs about $15 and the first one I did has about 30K on her and running strong. Checked the oil about 5K ago when I changed the injectors and still full.

 

Great breakthrough on a DIY fix, Domiracer! Any pics?
I'd still recommend the EWP approach, esp if your gears are gone.

 

Puller needed a mm or two removed then some fettling with a bench grinder to get it under the drive gear and around the casting profile. After that it was all smooth sailing. The old seal was pried out and new seal installed, also changed the rear needles whilst I was in there.

 

I've used the CR6213 instead of 6203 as 6213 is in Viton to handle any extra heat over the 6203. The rest is what I've done in past. Way to go Domiracer!

Jeremy

 

Jhiggs & Domi, hope you could put up a thorough DIY SC rebuild thread! Thanks!

 

+2
For a DIY rebuild....Taking mine to mini to confirm buy dropping those dollar bills!!!