Or just check it cold, after all the oil has run down into the sump, pull it out, don't wipe it off, note the oil level and put the dipstick back. It's easy and accurate.

Dave

 

yes, here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2007-2012-MINI-COOPER-S-R55-R56-R57-ENGINE-OIL-DIPSTICK-DIP-STICK-OEM-/251515274405?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ACooper&hash=item3a8f7a84a5&vxp=mtr
does my dipstick still have that issue since its not the red plastic one? and do people grind the bulb down on my version?

i have no trouble reading the dipstick, I can check it 5 times and the oil level is exactly in the same spot each time. even if the bulb draws oil into the tube, theres already oil in there from getting sloshed around. I can see oil on the 2 marks and the bulb, but between the two marks is always dry from my paper towel down to where the oil level is. I can see an issue if you just look at the top mark and see that its wet and the spring is dry. those marks will always be wet because the tube is wet. I think that lower bulb is there to actually center the dipstick in the tube so the spring area inside the 2 marks doesn't rub against the tube.

 

If you are getting a reading that actually shows an oil level between the two bulbs with the area above the oil level and the upper bulb dry, then your dip stick design is working and no further action would be required.
On my unmodified OEM dipstick it would have oil on it from the top bulb down, thus the need for me to modify it.

 

Then why did Mini redesign the Mini R56 dipstick three times if there was nothing wrong with it? It has nothing to do with inexperienced and mass hysteria, it has to do with some owners getting inaccurate oil level readings because of the oil taking a ride up the tube.

 

They changed the color of the plastic on the end, they haven't changed the design of the dipstick, on series two MINIs.

Dave

 

There isn't any colored plastic on the dipsticks for the early R56 MCS. They didn't just change the color on the tip of the dipstick to red, Mini changed it to plastic instead of the metal coils with medal beads, is that not a redesign?

 

The shape and length is still the same.

Dave

 

I'm trying to be kind, honest and 100% accurate with the facts and my statements, I don't care much for those that try to be thick headed about everything!

 

Just try to read the dipstick like I said, you'll see it's not difficult at all.

Dave

 

This has nothing to do with me being able to read the stock dipstick, never has been. Mini did get complaints about the stock coil type dipstick for fact, so Mini altered the design a little by adding at first a yellow plastic tip and then a red colored plastic piece at the end of the dipstick. It's that simple. that's it.

I will admit it takes more time for me to see where the oil level is when you must look in-between the gaps in the coils, when the oil is fresh it can be difficult to see properly. The craven dipstick simply makes it easier to see where the oil level is at without having to stare at it. This was my experience as was it for others, the metal used for the stock dipstick is darker and the Craven uses light natural color stainless steel.

 

The answer to if a refund is possible if the timing chain was replaced before the service bulletin and your car is listed as one of those effected.

My timing chain failed at 24k miles (check engine light, lots of noise, engine still running). I had it replaced at a MINI dealer. Warranty expired 5/2011, service date 9/2011.

I contacted MINI and Motorad and asked for a Goodwill refund and was denied.

At the end of 2013 I received a letter stating that I should have my timing chain tensioner checked. I had it checked at another dealer and I have the current version. The second dealer told me I had to contact the dealer that performed the repair to pursue a refund.

I contacted the Service Advisor at the repairing dealer. He forwarded my request for review/refund to his director. Nothing happened, so I followed up again. The second time the SA got back to me and told me the director sent the info to the regional manager. Once the regional manager returned from his vacation my refund was approved and the SA let me know. The dealer sent me a check and I received it yesterday.

It took almost 3 years and a lot of wasted time, contacting MINI in 2011, and then following up this year. I hope other people are receiving refunds for something that should have been a recall.

 

I've had my 09 JCW hardtop for almost 3 months and today I decided I didn't feel like changing the oil after being at work all night. So I drove over to that modern art shop that they refer to as the "dealership" so they could do it. While I was there they informed me I had some open campaigns, the turbo heat shield and check the timing chain tensioner. Told them to knock it out right quick. An hour goes by and the man comes up and tells me they have to replace the timing chain some other stuff. I don't think they found any records of it being changed prior to now and having just rolled over 80,000 miles I'm glad it's getting done on their dime. Anyways I guess I'll quit rambling on.

 

Must just happen to be in the right VIN range. I called about a month ago and my wife's '09 JCW convertible isn't getting covered...I was told the convertibles used better componentry...they cheaped out on the hardtops.

 

Wow that's great, most JCW's VINs are not apart of the campaign. Count yourself luck that you don't have to worry about the timing chain debacle and you got 80,000 miles out of the first timing chain. Have you ever heard a rattling sound at startup?

 

I've been listing to the rattle on startup for 8 months now, goes away after its warm. sound hasn't changed. I wonder if its normal or ok for it to rattle only on startup. the tensioner has to get pressurized to take up the chain's slack, right? so it seems like it would be normal for it to rattle when cold. unless its a new car of course with a chain that hasn't gotten stretched.

 

8 months, I didn't think such a thing was possible!

You probably have chunks of plastic in your oil pan from the timing chain hitting the guides! Well my timing chain make a little noise for the first 1-2 seconds that's normal, once the oil pressure is up things quiet down quickly. I'm referring to rattling that last 30+ seconds, that is not good.

 

You should bring it in to have the chain checked for excess slack, it can't hurt and could save you thousands.

 

I have to agree with DneprDave on this one, 8 months wow!

 

hm, I'm not sure how long mine rattles for, its longer than 30 seconds though. I haven't waited around to see how long it takes to go away. I have a powertrain warranty so I'll get it checked out within a few months. I also need a new turbo oil line cause the banjo is leaking. kinda waiting for something new that needs fixing since I've had both issues since I got the car and I can pay the $250 deductible to get everything fixed.

 

Just so you know if the timing chain jumps the camshaft sprocket your engine is toast, valves crash into the pistons! Just so you know, depending on the year Mini USA has been footing the bill for timing chain components for 2007-2010 MCS's. At the very least call Mini USA and give them your VIN to be 100% sure, nothing to lose.

Don't bother entering your VIN for the recall info because Mini USA doesn't refer to them as recalls, they call it a campaign. That's how Mini keeps things hush quiet, a recall is if the government forces a car manufacturers hand, then it's a recall.

 

yeah I know. I have a few posts in this thread. mine isn't part of the campaign. someone in the thread mentioned that since my tensioner was replaced for leaking, then my vin probably got removed from the campaign due to them possibly using a updated tensioner during the repair. since it doesn't rattle after warming up, how likely is it that the chain could jump?

 

You luck this far is outstanding, eight months! Your luck will run out soon, that's the way our universe works. When mine started to rattle it broke the guide mounted above the camshaft sprockets after just a few startups, the broken bits fell into the oil pan, who knows how long those bits were there. You want to pay for a new or rebuilt engine? I pay $200 for my warranty deductible, I wish now I had it at a $100 deductible knowing how things go bad often.

I at least have the HPFP to deal with in the not so distant future, think I have an injector in the process of dying in cylinder #1 or a Vanos solenoid and a main water pump since it's made from plastic. If my water pump doesn't fail before my warranty is up I will go ahead and have it replaced as preventative maintenance. I can replace the injector, Vanos solenoid and HPFP on my own, not the pump though.

 

my deductible is $250, and it would cover a new engine. if I didn't have the warranty, I'd be worried for my wallet!

i recorded a video of the sound today. the audio quality isn't too good, sounds like its under water, but you can hear the sound I'm talking about. you can hear it really well in the video, its harder to hear in person for some reason. let me know if you think its the timing chain. the 1 minute 15 second point you can hear it pretty well. thanks.

 

If the noise is coming from the far left of the valve cover (passenger side) it's probably your timing chain slapping around with little to no no tension at all. If you continue to run your engine the timing chain can hop off your camshafts damaging your engine. Can you do a video when you first start your car up in the morning?

 

when i took that video the car hadnt been started for like 20 hours. the sound is coming from the left. heres a video I found that has the same noise mine has. in the description it says "this is what my mini sounds like the day after the timing chain was replaced bmw say its the oil pump?"