Wow... what a PITA compared to my BMW. The filter is just horrible placement. I got it out okay... but getting it in was a little rough because of the coolant hose in the way.

You REALLY have to crank that coolant out of the way. As almost everyone I've heard of with an N18 engine, a few drops of coolant leaked from that bottom hose, but once back to normal it's fine.

Also, there is basically no way to get the filter out without some leakage as well... so have something down for it. I have a HUGE oil catch pan and it still isn't big enough to cover the drain plug area as well as where the oil will drop down from the filter.

All in all... PITA... but I'll still be doing it every 5k then having MINI do my free ones another 5K. My meter is set to about 8k but they said I don't have to worry about warranty issues since I get my oil from them anyways so there is proof I'm buying it.

Costs me $43 (after taxes) to buy 5L of MINI oil and a MINI filter from my dealer.

 

Lift 4 Das Win! Snake it out the bottom.

 

Yeah, now that I know "exactly" how to get it out, I'll be good. But that first time with trial/error on getting it out and back in (back in was 5x worse) I'm all good.

Of course, having a lift would be great haha.

 

I wonder if the dealer does it differently with a lift.

 

I dunno, I looked (had it jacked up pretty high (about 3') and I definitely did not notice an easy way from the bottom to get to the filter, especially since it's angled upward.

 

For best results its best done when vehicles @ operating temp (hot)! But be warned, don't get burned.

Break it loose from the top (8" 3/8 extension with proper socket such as AST 27mm used by Mercedes) till its just about to fall out (couple threads left), take oil filler cap off and pull dip stick (will help with creating as much of a vacuum when draining oil). Take pan drain bolt out and allow it to drain till its nothing more then a slow drip/gathering. When you loosen the filter housing prior to draining the oil it will draw most of the oil out of the oil filter housing making removal of filter from bottom easy as its already loose and only needs a few simple turns to get it to drop out as well as most if not all oil in filter housing has been drawn into the pan because of the vacuum created by removing the filler cap and dip stick as well as filter housing. Install new filter & o-ring (please do not reuse), reach up and put filter back into place. give it 1-2 turns to start threads, bring car back down and tighten filter from top. fill to proper level, check oil level, start vehicle, allow to idle for 5-10 seconds, then hold accelerator @ 3500rpms for roughly 5-10 seconds to allow for oil pressure to build up. let sit for 10-15 seconds, recheck level and top off if needed.

As for oil, we could debate all day about whats best for the n12, 14, 16 or 18. I would recommend to use a genuine MINI filter & o-ring as I have personally seen so many aftermarket filters that state will work, but just don't get the job done, as well as don't fit properly. I personally am a huge AMS Oil or Redline fan, but to each is their own.

 

Also note, it's not a 8mm for the reservoir like most posts say... for a 2013 MCS it's a 10mm for the coolant reservoir bolt.

27mm for the filter housing. I found a 10" extension and a bending elbow extension to help a TON when getting it down in there to get the filter housing.

 

I don't even shift/move the coolant expansion tank/reservoir to get to filter housing, as well as no need for a swivel as its a straight shot if you have the right 27mm. And yes its a 10mm if you plan on shifting/moving the expansion tank on 2011 and new MC & MCS as well as JCW & even GP.

 

Yeah on my 2013 MCS there is no possible way (at least from my 15 minute studying of it) to get something on the filter without moving the reservoir out of the way. I could be wrong... but at least with mine I totally didn't see that happening.

Maybe though... it sure would be nice. Maybe next time you do yours you could PM me a pic of an angle where you feel like you could get to it without moving the reservoir at all.

 

Trust me it can be done.

Don't own a MINI (any longer), but lets just say, I do plenty of oil changes on them to be able to confidently tell you @ least 4 different ways I've personally seen oil service done on 14 and 18's. I'd say find a way you feel most comfortable with and do it that way.

 

If I could avoid moving the reservoir I'd be a happy happy camper. That's the only part of the entire change that I didn't enjoy.

I can jack it up up and down with no issues at all, but only about 3' up.

 

I move the coolant tank out of the way and loop a bungee around it temporarily. Just takes a few seconds now that I've had some practice.

I've been lucky, I guess, I've never had oil leak from the filter area after removing the oil fill cap and draining the sump first. I do let mine sit awhile before draining, maybe more than some might, not a fan of hot oil burns (who is?).

 

Great tip on using a bungee cord to hold the tank out of the way.

I'll add a tip or 3. Get one of those large metal drip pans they sell at the parts store. Slide that under with the drain pan on it. Catches any drips the drain pan misses.

Loosen the filter a bit & let it drain. Most of the oil will drain back into the engine.

Use a disposable diaper under the filter to catch any oil that may leak out.

It really is not a hard car to change the oil on.

 

I loosened the filter but I may have done it to much as it dripped out almost immediately. I went in and cleaned all I saw though from both top and bottom.

So far it's the hardest car to change the oil on that I've owned. God my 3-series was golden. The filter is LITERALLY on top of the motor... as soon as you pop the hood pointing up at you. Was great.

 

It gets easier with practice. My wife's justa is a breeze, but there is no turbo or bottle in the way.