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rattling noise from the back

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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 10:09 AM
  #1  
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rattling noise from the back

There was a discussion on here about this but I can't seem to find it. Do any of you have this rattling/clunking noise from the back (2009 base cooper ~25K miles). I can't tell if it is coming from the inside or the outside of the car. It isn't a loud noise. But it is definitely audible without trying to hear for it. For me, it happens when I go over small bumps at low speeds. The noise may also be there at high speeds but I can't tell maybe because of the road noise. One of the service bulletins talked about this kind of noise coming from loose latch for the backseat. I checked this and that wasn't the case for me. I am going to find someone who knows how to drive a stick have have him drive it while I sit in the back to see if I can pin down the noise, but in the meantime, has anyone dealt with this before?
 
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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 11:22 AM
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May be a silly question but have you checked to see is you license plate screwed down tight? They can rattle like a kid's toy, that's experience talking. A less silly question: You would actually let someone else drive your MINI???? NOBODY cares about your MINI the way you do. You drive and make them listen.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 12:01 PM
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I do have only the 2 top screws holding the license plate so that's worth a check. But I don't think the sound I heard would be from that. Could there be something in the wheel well, any of the suspension parts that are loose? Not that I would know any of that stuff. I may just have to take it to an expert to figure this out.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 05:41 PM
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Another thought is the passenger side seat belt. I was hearing a rattling noise from this as well. Easy enough to rule out....
 
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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by d00lindalton
... rattling/clunking noise from the back (2009 base cooper ~25K miles)
My 2008 Cooper had this noise. Replaced rear sway bar bushings - fixed, good ever since.

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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 08:16 PM
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Same here. My 2008 had the sway bar links and bushings replaced for the noise you're describing. Problem solved...............
 
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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 09:19 PM
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Thanks guys for that tip on the sway bar bushings.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2013 | 06:40 PM
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Don't forget the links too.........
 
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Old Feb 21, 2013 | 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by mini coop
Don't forget the links too.........
FYI - - -

I didn't touch the links on mine... bushings only. My original links are still good @ around 55,000 miles.


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Old Mar 3, 2013 | 07:55 PM
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A quick pdate on the noise. For me it is the end links.

I've been thinking about ugrading the rear sway bar. I'm thinking this is a good time to do it while addressing the noise. I looked at few of them and it doesn't look like the end links typically come with the bar. Is that correct.

Is there a package deal out there that would include the end links?
 
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Old Mar 4, 2013 | 07:58 AM
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The end link don't come with the bar , they are separate.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/33506772789/


I really like the H&R rear sway bar. Both are adjustable in the 19mm version & 22mm version.

2008 R56 Base Cooper

19mm Rear sway Bar
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/ES1304051/

22 mm Rear sway Bar
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/ES2581649/

Hope that helps.

Thanks
 
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Old Mar 4, 2013 | 08:15 AM
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I wanted to confirm that you cannot buy only the bushings for the end link but have to replace the end links ?
 
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Old Mar 4, 2013 | 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Dozuki01
I wanted to confirm that you cannot buy only the bushings for the end link but have to replace the end links ?
You have to buy the end link. Just like the picture above. Its two pivot bushings and the straight bar.

Thanks
 
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Old Mar 5, 2013 | 07:38 AM
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Installation question

Originally Posted by ECSTuning
You have to buy the end link. Just like the picture above. Its two pivot bushings and the straight bar.

Thanks
Are they easy to replace myself - Are there any torque setting to lock it down. Will it be hard to remove the old one.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2013 | 08:19 AM
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They are very easy to replace. All you need to do is get BOTH rear wheels off the ground at once. Remove them and go at it.

The torque is 41 ft/lbs.

The only way I could find to be able to read a torque value when tightening was to forgo using the allen head in the bolt and use a thin wrench on the flat spots on the linkage near the rubber while tighening the nut. Those flat spots end up being behind the sway bar. If I used the allen, I couldn't use my torque wrench.

The links provided above were informative and one of the selections has a GREAT price. You can't tell everything from the pictures provided, but the lowest price offering doesn't seem to offer those "flat spots", so I don't think a standard socket torque wrench could be used. You'd have to just get it good and tight. That should be good enough.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2013 | 08:31 AM
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Thank you Mini2na ! Going to order them and give it a go. How about the Front End link... did you replace them too.

Which one should I get are they better than the OEM? as far as the busing go.

I was more concern if they are too tight for me to take them off or having enough leverage.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2013 | 07:09 PM
  #17  
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Every Mini Rattles, And I am carful over bumps and I avoid bad roads.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2013 | 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by GOC4RT
Every Mini Rattles, And I am carful over bumps and I avoid bad roads.
My '08 MINI is pretty rattle-free @ around 56000 miles.

I live in a rural area - bad roads are pretty common. I'm careful with my MINI too, but I don't baby it at all. Nothing better than doing a little back-road attack every once in a while. Mud, potholes, slush etc., my car just eats it up. I've owned sports cars in the past that felt like they would self-destruct on anything other than a billiard table smooth surface (I'm talking about you, Lotus). My MINI is not one of those.

Don't obsess over keeping it perfect forever. Go out and enjoy beating on it a bit every once in a while.

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Old Aug 19, 2013 | 07:15 AM
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Has anyone else experienced the rear hatch rattling due to it being loose? I took it to the dealer a few months ago and the service manager and I narrowed it down to the hatch not securing because the rubber nubs were completely compressed. After replacing the nubs the sound seemed to go away for a few weeks but came back. I've gone through two pairs of these rubber nubs and the hatch is still shaking whether I screw them all the way in, all the way out, or anywhere in between.

The rattling/shaking happens when I hit small bumps.
 
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Old Aug 19, 2013 | 08:19 AM
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Have not heard of the hatch rattle that could not be fixed with the rubber bumper adjustment.

The end link noise is difficult to actually see. Sometimes the noise happens even if you can not see or get any movement out of the end links manually.

Another noise from the rear are the sway bar bushings. Grab the sway bar and see if you can pull/push it easily when both rear wheel are off the ground or both on the ground if you can reach it. If so, the bushing are worn and can clunk pretty bad. Easy and cheap fix.
 
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Old Aug 20, 2013 | 04:47 PM
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Timely topic as my 2012 MCS with 14,000 miles has also developed a rear rattle much as described in this thread. It sounds like a loose hatch or m maybe a suspension component. Because it is under warranty will have it checked out at next service.
 
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Old Aug 20, 2013 | 06:18 PM
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I had a noise (vibration buzz) coming from the backseat area. Going over rough pavement created a buzz of unknown origin, but generally from the backseat.
After a frustrating period of investigation (I examined EVERYTHING), I found the origin to be the rear seat seatbacks fit together so tightly, they were buzzing when jostled.
I stuffed a piece of foam rubber between the backs (near the top edges) where they touch and the noise is gone. Whew!
 
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Old Aug 21, 2013 | 07:02 AM
  #23  
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Check the latch bar that holds down the rear hatch. There is a black plastic piece that surrounds the catch. If it has broken off, that will cause a rattling sound. If you put some tape around it, the rattle will disappear.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2013 | 07:22 AM
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Another area to check if you get the rattle is the rear parcel deck. If you hear a rattle and its located higher and not coming from the rear suspension, it could be the parcel deck bouncing around on the missing bump stop nub.

R56 MINI Rear Window Parcel Shelf Deck


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/51467151717/ES119957/




And the diagram #1



If you are missing the side stud its here, two per rear deck. #3


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/51467295501/





For the Rear nub that the deck sets up against when the trunk lid is closed.

There is two of them.

You can see on this R53 / R50 version rear trunk interior panel the rubber nubs at the top.





#3 Bump stop - Priced Each


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/07132756983/



Thanks
 
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Old Aug 21, 2013 | 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by danEdmonds
Has anyone else experienced the rear hatch rattling due to it being loose? I took it to the dealer a few months ago and the service manager and I narrowed it down to the hatch not securing because the rubber nubs were completely compressed. After replacing the nubs the sound seemed to go away for a few weeks but came back. I've gone through two pairs of these rubber nubs and the hatch is still shaking whether I screw them all the way in, all the way out, or anywhere in between.

The rattling/shaking happens when I hit small bumps.
The rear hatch was rattling on our 2008 MCS. I repostitioned the latch so it would hold the hatch closed tighter, and the rattles are gone. You have to remove the trim piece that covers the latch in order to get at the latch attachment screws.
 
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