Since it was unlikely mine hadn't been done before. (Got with 43k miles and at 71.5k now) decided it was a good time. I had been having some hesitations and surgeries under low rpm load and even gotten a CEL for misfires. After opening up they were pretty gross. With #1 being the best and #4 the worst.

I started using the HF blaster method but was having troubles getting it to pull the walnut shells in. So used one from Northern tool and it went MUCH smoother. Took no time at all after that. I used that in conjunction with the BMW spray wand and vacuum attachment and got very good results. I would blast, then inspect and pick some of the heavier gunk, then blast again.

Before


After


Both #4 cylinder.

The setup I was using.


After cleaning and reassembling it started and ran very rough. Then after shutting down and restarting wouldn't start. So took the manifold back off, checked over everything, then restarted and it ran. However rough. Got some misfire codes. One MAF sensor. Started to think I somehow threw the timing off but as it ran it slowly got better. Swapped out to some newer plugs and put some miles on it and haven't gotten any fault codes yet however still hearing some clatter from the valve cover possibly.

Is there a good way to check and see if the timing is off?

Either way its not a very hard undertaking and does seem to have more pep. We'll see after the first tank of gas gets run through on mpg's. I didn't do a catch can just yet since I'm not really planning on keeping it too much longer.

 

Strong work!

 

if you're not planning on keeping the car much longer, can I call early dibs on the BMW vacuum attachment and the blaster wand?

 

Do you mind posting links to what you purchased to get this done? I'm thinking about doing this myself as well.

Thanks!

 

You know, a you tube video would be nice if someone would want to do a step by step when they do theirs next. I have 51k and imagine in a year or two I may want/need to do this. How much do you have invested? You can rent the blasters from a rental place if you have one near by. Brian

 

I can tell you this, if your car has been running with the carbon levels you've shown above for over 70k+ miles you can only imagine how the DME has had to adapt/compensate in terms of timing, fuel and overall adaptations values to allow it to run properly or as close to properly as it could. Then you go and clean it all out, but the DME is attempting to continue to run with the original/learned adaptations. Honestly my recommendation would be to have your local BMW Dealership or MINI reset your DME's adaptation values as well as perform the latest DME software encoding/update which is usually performed if you were to have this service performed by the dealer. Oh and good job by the way doing the service to your intake valves and runners. I've seen guys who get paid reckless amounts of money to do this job, and do half the job you just did.

Oh and the noise/clatter you are hearing from the valve cover area could simply be the valve train which is inherently noisy in the n14 as well as the DI system in combination with the Vacuum Pump. Its that or your timing chain is done or has what BMW refers to as excessive deflection/stretch which could also be causing your misfire issues. Might want to inspect your timing chain & guides as well as physical timing to be sure your misfire faults are related to a timing issue.

Just my 2 cents though.

 

I'll try to get some links later on this evening. I started out with the HF blaster which in my opinion was junk. Fortunately dad had this blaster still in the box, quick run to Home depot for an adapter and was in business. I follows the N54 guide to doing it as far as setting up the blaster. I"ll link that too.

I might have had $100 in everything. I didn't have to buy the Northern Tool blaster as dad still had it new in the box from who knows when. I got the vacuum adapter and the wand from Wezag Tools and it was about $58 shipped. The HF stuff I used a 20% coupon on (walnut shells and 1st blaster)

IF you can rent a nicer blaster then that would be the way to go. I've heard success stories with the HF blaster but I just couldn't get it work reliably and was frustrating. Maybe I was doing it wrong though.

Didn't think about the adaptive values. I'm sure they were working overtime though. I just assumed them being adaptive would relearn for the amount of air coming in. I'm sure it was leaning it out alot to compensate for the less air getting in. I noticed my computer mpgs shoot up into the 50s which was crazy. Though was less (about 27) when calc'd by hand. Now with only half a tank run on clean valves it was up into the 29s. Still on first full tank. However the computer is now reading in the 40s so closer to reality.

More of a reason to get my INPA istall working correctly. Keep getting a IFH-009 error. Thinking it might be my cable but not sure. So that could reset my adaptive values but for a DME software update doubt I'd be able to find that and I'm sure the dealer will want some coin just to do that. So might just live with it.

Next job will be to measure the slack in the timing chain to see if the elongated tensioner will help. Through all the noise in the valve cover can hear the injectors firing. However there's a distinct metal sound. I wasn't aware the vacuum pump made that much noise though. When I got the car they said they did a timinig chain fix. However not sure if that was just a tensior or the full monty. Need to call and get a history sent over. I'm inclined to think the full monty since the intake didn't have the back smaller bolt installed and some of the fender liner screws were missing. Which I haven't messed with that side before. So it stands to reason the intake has been off before I got it as well as the fender liner.

After that will get the improved turbo oil feed line, mines been fine so far however it appears to just be a ticking time bomb from what I've read.

 

: thumbsup:

 

How did you turn the engine to close the valves? I'm thinking about doing this myself as well.

 

I did it by removing the front pass wheel and the inner fender lining to get to the crank bolt. 18mm socket and rotate CW as looking at the pulley's. Removing the spark plugs makes it easier as well.

I think you can remove the lower splash shield as well and get up in there. However probably have to get the car up high.

 

Good work. It should run much smoother now--especially around idle.

 

It does run better for sure. However mileage didn't improve. I think its probably down to the adaptation values.

 

I have considered having my valves done too,

 

CSMITTY, Still love to see those links.....particularly for the wand and vacuum adapter. I'd like to, at least, find a picture so that I might be able to fab my own.

Tia, Jon in SC

 

I found these parts from a thread on another forum. Are these the ones you used?

Extraction Adapter
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/81292208038/ES2166079/
Part#: 81292208038

Blast Wand
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/81292208032/ES2166078/
Part#: 81292208032

 

Would you mind giving us a link to where you got the vacuum adapter and wanf from Wezag tools? I'm on their site and am having a hard time finding it!

Thanks!

 

Yeap, those looks like them. However they're much cheaper direct from Wezag. I don't think the list them on their site however I just sent a general email to wezag@wezagtools.com and a Lisa DuSatko responded quickly and I just provided her all the info. The vacuum adapter was $35.23 and the wand $13.30. Shipping was $10 I think.

I'll find links to the other stuff this evening and how I modified this to fit together. Sorry its taken a while.

 

Was this the same blaster you used from Northern Tool?

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...ct_17798_17798

 

Yea that looks like the one. Can't remember the exact model number. Just in my experiance found it worked 5x better than the HF one. And I even had that one suspended to have gravity help but just had issues. I think it stemmed from how the gun sealed. Either way once I switched the Northern one it went quickly.

 

Cool. Did the MINI blast wand fit on the gun alright or did it need some attachments?

Thanks!

 

Man, you guys are very clever. We bought the factory setup for big buxx. It's paid for itself many times over, but it was many times more expensive than what you're cobbling together.

 

No it doesn't fit directly on. However it only takes two fittings from the hardware/plumbing section at HD/Lowes for a few bucks. I used the procedure one guy wrote for his N54 cleaning to adapt to the HF gun where he had to enlarge a fitting to get the threads to catch better on the BMW wand as it has a tapered cone then a threaded nut to clamp it down. I can find the fitting part numbers later. I want to say it was a 1/4NPT threaded adapter (male threads on both ends) then used a 1/4->1/2 NPT adapter (both ends female) to adapt to the Northern sprayer wand. Might could snap some pictures later this week too.