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R53 Won't Start-Good Crank, Spark, Fuel Pressure, Compression

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Old 11-30-2012, 07:09 AM
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R53 Won't Start-Good Crank, Spark, Fuel Pressure, Compression

Need some help!
[FONT=Calibri]My 2006 R53 (2006 with 45Kmiles) will turn-over but won’t start. Last Weekend my car was missing bad at start up. I turned it off right away and checked codes with reader. No Codes. I then restarted the car with no problem. I drove about 3 miles to the store and it restarted fine for my trip home. The next morning it turned-over but wouldn’t start. After a few tries, the car started but felt like it was running on one cylinder. I then checked for codes which showed nothing. [/FONT]
[FONT=Calibri]Fault Isolation: I checked the plugs which were wet with gas and all plugs have spark. I replaced the coil with a good one that I had and still no start. All the vacuum lines and boost line seem to be OK. I’ve check compression (cold engine) which is good (about 120 on all cylinders). The battery is new and charged. Yesterday I removed the bumper, etc for service mode and didn’t see anything lose. I connected a fuel pump pressure gauge which showed 45psi with key "on". I've disconected the battery to reset the computer. I tried my spare key too. I'm aware that the TMAP sensor or Crank position Sensor could be bad, but don't really want to start spending money on replacing parts that don't fix it. I'm not sure what effect a bad sensors has on the car not running (do they cut spark if bad?). Any Ideas Please? Thanks[/FONT]
 
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Old 11-30-2012, 08:26 AM
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install new plugs and make sure the battery is fully charged


Originally Posted by Mini SUV
Need some help!
[FONT=Calibri]My 2006 R53 (2006 with 45Kmiles) will turn-over but won’t start. Last Weekend my car was missing bad at start up. I turned it off right away and checked codes with reader. No Codes. I then restarted the car with no problem. I drove about 3 miles to the store and it restarted fine for my trip home. The next morning it turned-over but wouldn’t start. After a few tries, the car started but felt like it was running on one cylinder. I then checked for codes which showed nothing. [/FONT]
[FONT=Calibri]Fault Isolation: I checked the plugs which were wet with gas and all plugs have spark. I replaced the coil with a good one that I had and still no start. All the vacuum lines and boost line seem to be OK. I’ve check compression (cold engine) which is good (about 120 on all cylinders). The battery is new and charged. Yesterday I removed the bumper, etc for service mode and didn’t see anything lose. I connected a fuel pump pressure gauge which showed 45psi with key "on". I've disconected the battery to reset the computer. I tried my spare key too. I'm aware that the TMAP sensor or Crank position Sensor could be bad, but don't really want to start spending money on replacing parts that don't fix it. I'm not sure what effect a bad sensors has on the car not running (do they cut spark if bad?). Any Ideas Please? Thanks[/FONT]
 
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Old 11-30-2012, 09:58 AM
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Thanks! You read my mind. That's what I was planning to do tonight. Sometimes it's something easy (I Hope)
 
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Old 11-30-2012, 11:42 AM
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I was stupid and burned up my starter because I had fouled Brisk plugs and the car (2003 R53)would not start. Turnovered fine but would not start.
 
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Old 12-03-2012, 04:45 AM
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It was the plugs! And they were the Brisk Silver plugs (about a year old). I had checked for spark with different plugs on the wires. I did look at the plugs earlier and they just had the thin black (Carbon) film on them like I had seen before. I have had 40 years of car and never had a fouled plug. I'm a believer now.
 
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Old 12-03-2012, 05:07 AM
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The brisk plugs by most accounts are short lived....now you know why.
Ngk's seem to work great on a mini, last a long time....and cost less....
 
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