A year ago, my wife's 2009 Clubman S started leaking oil at the turbo supply line. It was repaired at the dealer under warranty. This month my wife complained of oil-buring smell, and since we are now out of warranty I decided to replace the factory line myself with a Detroit Tuned stainless line. However, when I went to remove the down pipe in preparation of installing the oil line, I discovered that the dealer must have broken one of the studs that holds the downpipe to the turbo during the original repair, because one position was now held with an anemic 3 mm diameter bolt and nut, instead of the original 5 mm diameter stud and nut.

From the picture, it appears that the backside of the flange chipped, presumably causing the need for a bolt instead of a stud. Furthermore, from the white deposit on the flange it appears that we have an exhaust leak next to the replacement bolt.

I have no experience with turbos. Could uneven pressure from using a 3 mm bolt cause this leak? I thought a bolt should clamp as well as the nut and stud, but perhaps the 3 mm bolt can't hold as much torque? It's such a PITA to get to this step, that I don't want to put it back together, just to have to take it apart again for an exhaust leak. On the other hand, I don't want to buy a new turbo, just to repair the flange.

I don't expect to get any help from the dealer since we are out of warranty, so any suggestions are appreciated!

 

I think the dealer should stand by his repair work and look at the bolt that is no original. It's only one year and it does not hurt to ask them.

 

my dealer states all their repair work and parts are covered by a 2 year warranty

scott

 

I agree that the dealer should stand by their work. Unfortunately, we need to use this car as a daily driver, so I need to get the car back on the road before I can ask the dealer to make good on their repair. And will be hard to prove that the dealer damaged the flange, and not me. It is essentially my word against theirs. An 8 mm bolt will fit, so I'll use that to put everything back together.

 

What torque do people use on the nuts on the studs that hold the down pipe/catalytic converter to the turbo? I used the Bentley spec, and seem to have quite an impressive exhaust leak coming from under the heat shield on top of the turbo. I assume the leak is at the flange between the turbo and the cat, and I'll try and re-torque a bit tighter tonight.

 

first off, as soon as your removed the downpipe/cat from the exhaust housing/hotside of turbo you broke the seal (in a joking way). The gasket is a 1 time use gasket (crush/layered) and honestly once removed should be replaced. I know a ton of tech's who don't do so causing a leak in the area you are describing (sometimes you can get away with it, but more often you will not...). Also find that sometimes the studs will become damaged. Usually when I do oil feed/return lines (or if i have to replace cat) I will replace all 3 studs as well as nuts and gasket (the cost is minimal and will save me from doing the job twice) regardless if the studs & nuts as well as gasket look to be in ok condition. Who wants to spend 30-45 min ripping that all back out over $15 (cost). Its called doing the job right the first time.

Oh and as for torque, there is a specific spec, but honestly german torque specs "gut und tight" should be fine and make sure you go around the world when doing so. Don't tighten 1 to max tightness then move to the next, evenly distribute torque for a nice even pressure against the gasket.