Hi Guys

So I had my dmf machined I know alot of talk that it can and can't be done.

Having trouble with the gears not been able to go in. Replaced slave bled like crazy no joy.

So the machine shop wants to verify if the DMF was not taken down too much.

Apparently they saying the area where dowels are should not have been machined.

Could anyone with an old dmf or new please measure the heights from where the dowling pin starts (bottom of pin) to the bottom of the first flywheel (the part that doesn't move) and also please could you measure the same thing but where the bolts lock on to.

Sorry if this doesn't make much sense and for any typos I'm typing from my phone and it's not the friendliest keypad.

 

Short answer and probably not the one your hoping to get, you have or should I say your machine shop have reduced your DMF to a very costly piece of scrap, there is no tolerance for any material to be removed from the primary face.

Time to throw it away and replace it.

 

I have to agree with the other poster. Your DMF is toast. They CANNOT be skimmed, despite what you may have heard. The shop should never have agreed to machine a DMF.

Hope you don't have to pay a 2nd time to have the engine and bell housing pulled to replace with a new one.

 

Ok so toast in the sense that I have lost too much "meat" or cause the step is lost?

Hypothetically speaking and on a temporary measure if they made the clutch thicker to compensate would that work and spacers to the step?

I think the guy only took off 1-2mm is that really that bad?

I must say I managed to drive the car rev matching and no clutch. So would u still say dmf is dead? Got full power managed to get up to 120mph easy.

 

As I have already mentioned, you can NOT re-surface the DMF, regardless of how little/much your machine shop has machined off the primary face, so do yourself a huge favour, stop messing about, waisting more time and money, and simply purchase either another DMF, or get yourself an aftermarket solid (single mass) flywheel and clutch assembly, then with the solid (single mass) flywheel you will be able to re-surface the face!

I will try make this really simple, you thought that whatever material you had machined from the primary face, you would have the same machined from the dowel locating and fastening block steps ? Yes

Although this made logical sense in your head, equal distance machining, keeps everything equal ? You have made a very basic error in understanding calculated measurements for the operation of the clutch fork acting on the throw out bearing!

By doing what you thought, you have moved the operational pivot and operational working travel distance of the clutch fork, the very reason you have difficulty in engaging gears, is because the pressure plate fingers have not enough travel distance to release the friction plate, allowing full disengagement!

Furthermore when you machine any amount of material from a DMF you drastically upset the harmonic balancing between the primary and secondary masses.

 

Fair enough it's just that i needed to get the car out of town and having no dealership in my country it will take a while to get one down.

Besides the OS Ginken are they any other single mass flywheel available you can recommend?

 

There are quite a few aftermarket flywheel/clutch assemblies available, simply check out some of the site sponsors, as I currently don't have the names to hand.

 

There are aftermatket df flywheels by LUK, and several single mass flywheels...but going to a single mass flywheel will result in the need to swich to a sprung cluch to prevent auto enguagement from the extra vibrations....the reason single mass flywheels are usually sold as a kit with a clutch.