On the way home I downshift while climbing a steep hill then heard a pop and followed by a lack of power and a loud exhaust sound. I limped home and put the car up on jacks, thinking maybe I did not tighten exhaust bolts after realigning the system. Nothing so simple. A quick start of the car with the bonnet up revealed that the no. 3 plug had blown out.

I can't get another plug to thread in. I tried with a fresh plug,but I just blew that out too (and I can't find it- at least the compression must be damn good). I can only guess that when I put in the Iridiums last October I did not thread the plug right or I did not tighten it enough. Now what do I do? Do I dare try and put a tap down to ream out the threads or must the head come off for such work, or a heli-coil, or a new head. Ouch!

What would you do? It may be an excuse to get a hotter replacement head. I don't even want to think what I might hear if I had the car towed to the dealer with all of my after-market mods. :???:

 

Sorry to hear that! What mods do you have? What plugs are you using?

 

Plugs shouldn't blow out under any circumstances. Take your car to a competent mechanic ASAP!

 

Ugh. You'll need a helicoil or a spark plug rethreading kit.. Helicoils cut less but use mucho grease either way. Good luck!

--
Cheese

 

>>Sorry to hear that! What mods do you have? What plugs are you using?

In the engine bay- Alta 15% pulley, Webb/Powerchip ECU, Alta intake, Alta oil catch can, Pilo coil, Nology wires, and Denso colder plugs. Also, Milltek header and Alta exhaust.

Can any of the thread repair be attempted with the head on?

 

ouch!!

 

>>>>Sorry to hear that!

 

This happened to me a few years back on my tacoma pickup. I had put in bosch platinum 4's and began having troubles. I must have torqued them down half a dozen times before one finally backed out , blew out the threads, and broke the coil pack in half. I tried a plug thread chaser, no luck. So I wound up using a spark plug rethreader kit. This is a little nicer than a helicoil, because the insert isn't actually a coil. It works pretty much the same way though. You tap it out with the supplied tap, then put the insert onto the new plug with some loctite on the outside of the insert. Tighten it in there, and you're done. Worked great on my old truck, I sold it shortly thereafter, and I know the guy who bought it. It's held up fine for 50k miles. Don't panic and good luck.

 

Thanks for the comments. Two competent garages looked at it and had the same comments and plan of attack, but neither could do it immediately. One was even willing to weld an extension onto the tool if necessary to get it down the tube through the valve cover. The dealer, who is well-regarded and has done several JCWs said they could get to it immediately. Since I'd rather drive the Mini than the Suburban and I'm overdue for the 10,000 mile service (though I've changed my oil and filter), I am putting it on a flat bed for Hartford this morning. It will be a sad and solemn moment. Also, if the head must come off to get it done right, I'd rather have someone do it who has worked on Minis to this extent. They promised to take it easy on me, but with 37" sleeves it is not that long a reach to my ankles,anyway. If the head must come off, this may be the time to exchange for a modified head and cam set up.

To pocketrocketowner, many people wonder about me. I do drive agressively, and my son tells me that the other kids and parents on the drive to his school think I'm a bit fast and crazy on the backroads. However, I've never over-reved the engine or done anything really stupid (other than whatever I did in putting in the Denso IK-22 plug in No. 3). Yes, there is much to wonder about- why would a middle-age, overweight attorney still act like a kid, trade in a modified big Audi for a Mini, consider ice climbing and extreme skiing relaxing and fun, and enjoy the solace of solo winter summiting in the White Mountains or of offshore kayaking alone in Maine. Go figure.

 

Is your MINI dealer doing this repair under warranty? I too have the Denso IK-22 plugs to match my pulley mod, CAI, ECU upgrade...

Is there any relationship of the blown 3# plug to the use of these colder plugs assuming proper installation torque?

By the way, does any known the torque spark plug torque?

Thanks,
SMKKVK

 

PMC,

I have essentially the same mods you have and would be interested to hear what the dealer says (or doesn't say) regarding your mods and any likelihood that (they believe) the mods caused the problem. And, of course, what they charge you for the fix.

Don't let them reflash your ECU!!

 

proper spark plug torque is 21 lb-ft

I'm not sure what to think of this yet....

 

>>PMC,
>>
>>I have essentially the same mods you have and would be interested to hear what the dealer says (or doesn't say) regarding your mods and any likelihood that (they believe) the mods caused the problem. And, of course, what they charge you for the fix.
>>
>>Don't let them reflash your ECU!!

I have a memo going to the dealer that instructs no ECU re-flash that may distrub the new performance parameters. I hope they read it, but I'll follow-up by phone on Monday anyway.

I am sure I will get an ear-full from the dealer, and I will relay it to anyone who is interested with the cost. No, this is not a warranty item. I can only surmise that my misfortune relates to my own mechanical incompetence when I put the plugs in at the October Boston Pulley Party.

 

>>I am sure I will get an ear-full from the dealer, and I will relay it to anyone who is interested with the cost. No, this is not a warranty item. I can only surmise that my misfortune relates to my own mechanical incompetence when I put the plugs in at the October Boston Pulley Party.

Yeah, I let Randy install my plugs. If this happens to me, I'll have someone else to talk to! Thanks for keeping us informed!

Tim

 

Sounds like a well-lived life to me! I'm with you on the skiing and climbing, but only rock. Ice climbers are *crazy*

Two points. The recommended plug torque is all over the board depending upon whether or not you're adding anti-seize. Denso and NGK both have torque charts and notes about how much you should reduce that amount if the threads aren't dry.

Second point is that I recall reading (here) that the head studs are single-use and that the installation is pretty specific. Point being that if you're taking it to an independent shop or DIY I'd take the time to get the relevant details.

If they're doing JCW kits, though, they're familiar with all of that, no?

Sorry to hear of the misfortune. Perhaps time to start trolling hear/mini2/ebay for heads that have been swapped for the JCW? I've seen 'em for sale cheap.

Jeff in ATL

 

>>proper spark plug torque is 21 lb-ft

Are you sure? This sounds high to me. It's probably right,
but it would be nice to verify.

What is the diameter of our plugs?

Here is a site saying conical-seat plugs in an aluminum head at
7-14 foot-pounds for 14mm and
14-21 foot-pounds for 18mm.
Spark plug site

 

PMC,
I told you you didn't need to use that breaker bar with the 4 foot pipe extension to tighten the plugs! :smile:

_________________
MCS, with some stuff. Stuff. Just stuff, alright!

 

Bisch- Thanks for the humor. I need it after watching my car go down the driveway on the back of a flatbed and suffering post-partum depression. Unfortunately, this is one of the few times where I tried to avoid excessive force.

As to your other point, Ommegang and cars have worked well for me this year. On a waterfowl hunting trip in December near Cooperstown, NY we limited out early and decided to visit the brewery despite the snowstorm. The brewery was unplowed and but we drove in anyway and found the assistant brewmaster ready to lock up. We bought some beer and tried to drive out where we thought the driveway should be, only to put the Suburban on the rock of Gibraltar concealed by a snowdrift. The brewguy opened up the place and gave us free beer and munchies. We told the tow people to take their time with the others stuck in the snow. The vehicle survived and was driveable and we owned the brewery for a while. I have a nice picuture of me behind the bar opening bottles and as happy as a pig in sh*t; I'll send it to you if you PM me at pmclaw@snet.net.

 

Now I REALLY wonder about you. Race ya anyways (once the wounded beauty gets back on the road that is) good luck and do tells us the damages.......
Lesson # 1 on sparkplugs: ALWAYS use copper ani-seize.
Lesson # 2 on sparkplugs: ALWAYS thread them in by hand till they seat.
Lesson # 3 on sparkplugs: NEVER use a torque wrench on an aluminum head. All you need to do is crush the gasket, you do that with a half turn of a 3/8ths ratchet.
Cheers

 

Pocketrocket- Never used #1, but will look into it. I always follow your #2 and #3, and I've never had a problem before. God only knows what I did to my poor no. 3 cylinder. After the car diappeared in the fog as it descended the long driveway I went on ebay and bought a head from someone who did an 04 JCW conversion- if I need the head now I'll use it; if not, I'll have a head for performance mods later. I need to turn a bad situation into a net gain.

 

OFF WITH THE HEAD! No, I'm not quoting Henry VIII; that is what the service people said is necessary for proper repairs. Rather than spend $1,000+ in labor just to tear off the top of my engine and repair the head, I am opting to let the car sit a while and have Randy Webb modify a replacement head and port/polish the runners and plenum. I might even go for the Alta 19% pulley- after all, the warranty is so far gone, performance is addictive, and replacements are not that expensive in the whole scheme of things.

Any other thoughts? What would you do in this situation?

 

Copper anti seize is a copper grease. I use it on EVERYTHING I disassemble and assemble (or mean to anyway). A one pound can lasts me a couple of years and I never have ANY seized nuts (my wife will argue with that ) or dramas when disassembling. Best mechanics lesson I learned from my pal in the UK who owns a repair shop.
Samrt man on getting the head off!!!!

 

>>Now I REALLY wonder about you. Race ya anyways (once the wounded beauty gets back on the road that is) good luck and do tells us the damages.......
>>Lesson # 1 on sparkplugs: ALWAYS use copper ani-seize.
>>Lesson # 2 on sparkplugs: ALWAYS thread them in by hand till they seat.
>>Lesson # 3 on sparkplugs: NEVER use a torque wrench on an aluminum head. All you need to do is crush the gasket, you do that with a half turn of a 3/8ths ratchet.
>>Cheers
>>
I respectfully have to disagree with #3. If the manaufacture gives a torque spec that is specific for a aluminum head. Given that the head is completely cool, why not just shave a pound or 2 off of said spec and use a small torque wrench ? Seems a lot better then guestimating. You won't have overtightened it or failed to completely seat it. This particle case seemed to be believed by the owner to be one of undertightening. I used a torque wrench to insure my denso's were fully seated and I am now very happy I did.
I read somewhere that anti-seize has a effect on the recomended torque spec, maybe that has a impact on your suggestion?
I found out the hard way that crushing the gasket by feel alone is not always perfect. Granted the retightening of a used plug, or pre crushed washer, is more obviuos and the 1/8 th turn, or whatever the manaufacture suggests, should be fine.

 

I once owned a '67 VW Westfalia (I miss my split window It held for a few hundred miles, then I sold it. It may still be there!

 

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