I recently got at CEL and went to the Dealer, after letting them hang on to my 2009 R56 S for a day, they said that my MAF Sensor is faulty. A little background is my car has been idling high, stuttering at high speeds (like shaking or I guess you could say would do a skipping feeling), and miss firing when starting the car. Anyway, they said that my MAF Sensor needs to be replaced and it was because it was covered in red oil. They said that this was from my K&N Filter. I can see how that make sense, because I definitely over oiled my filter. So it's all my fault!!! However, they want to charge me $464 for the MAF Sensor, $62 for Labor (only take 10mins to install the part), and $120 to re-program the MAF Sensor. I told them that I would purchase the MAF elsewhere and come back later to get the re-program. They also said that they programmed it to DEFAULT MODE. What in the world is default mode? Probably should have asked that, but didn't think of it. Are they pulling my leg or is it really something like a dealer mapping to the ECU??

My question is can I just buy the part, install it, and then flash or re-flash the ECU? Does a MAF Sensor really need to be programmed to be optimized for full functionality with all the other parts of the car, or can't it be just Plug and Play?

I did go to Autozone and pickup CRC Mass Air Flow Sensor cleaner, just for kicks and cleaned it out thoroughly and then let it air dry for an 1hr and then re-installed it, but it still idles bad, hasn't stuttered, but still miss fires. It might be faulty or the ECU is performing in Default Mode so that is why I have not seen any improvements.

Anyway, just to clarify:
1. Do I need to go back to the dealer so that they can reprogram my ECU to stock conditions or can I do it myself with an ECU Flash?
2. Does a new MAF really need to be reprogrammed? Shouldn't it be PnP as it wold adapt to the engine and ECU?
3. What is Default Mode?

P.S. Found a BOSCH MAF OEM Sensor on eBay for $282, and an A1 Cardone MAF OE Sensor on A1Cardone.com for $192.00 with a $48.80 core deposit. I will probably go with the A1 Cardone.

 

One, I've never heard of a MAF requiring programming... of any kind; it's a feedback sensor, not a adjusting tool.
Two, once you've installed the new MAF, you would only need to clear out the faults codes in the ECU.
Three, I don't believe "default mode" actually exists... unless they are using a 'cover-name' for something else.

Buy a new MAF yourself (make sure to get matching parts, NOT an aftermarket), install it, and address your issues with the K&N filter.
Personally you should ditch the oiled filter as that does significantly increase MAF failure.

- Erik

 

Buy OEM

 

I agree that cars with MAFs should not use oil type air filters like K&N. I thought MAFs got better but perhaps not. I found that ITG filters with oil failed my MAF on one of my 90s cars. In the 90s MAFs were breaking down due to filter oil and even PCV vapor. You can clean them with the proper spray cleaner but some of the thin wire designs still fail. I got spare "improved BOSCH MAFs" for some of my older cars because the original BOSCH OEM versions fail so often even with standard air filters and good replacements are difficult to get when stock is low. The design of MAFs improved but it looks like they still can fail.

MAFs are tricky and I would only use BOSCH OEM parts. If I see an aftermarket MAF on a car and it is running strange I want to replace it first thing to see if that fixes the issue.

 

I had the same exact issues with the MAF on my previous car (Beetle 1.8 Turbo). Swapped to a K&N and killed the MAF. That filter was straight out of the box too. The price of the first replacement was crazy! I had to replace it again at about 140,000 miles and the price had dropped signifigantly. I don't understand the pricing for these things and never had a good explanation given to me either.

I'm with the others, I don't see what they would have to reprogram. The ECU should be able to adjust to the new item. If they re-programmed your ECU to some sort of "safe" mode, then they should have to put it back to stock.

 

I appreciate everyone's feedback. Will get that OEM on ebay for $282, but I will still have the problem of running the car in default mode, of whatever that is. I scanned the car with my Scanguage 2 and I get a code that is P0E5F, after looking what this code is online, google searches say that it can only be read with the proper scanner. I am guessing this is the default mode. So they definitely place my car in a particular mode so that I would have to come back to the dealer to get it cleared and placed back to stock. I am thinking about going to Autozone and getting them to scan it so that maybe they can clear it for free or remove it from my engine and CPU for good. Scanguage pulls it as a pending code and, when I go to clear it says that it has been cleared, but when I go back to the pending codes it still is in the pending codes section. So it obviously doesn't clear it. Accordingly, even if they clear, what is my car then running in, probably still not stock, so it looks as if I have to go back anyway.

In addition, to getting the OEM Bosch MAF, can someone point me in the right direction of oil-free or non-oil filter that can go on the DDM Works intake that I have now? The MAF Outside Diameter is 2-3/4", so I need a filter that is Inside Diameter 2-3/4", that is not longer than 11" so that it fits in the air box. And I am not talking about a drop-in filter, its a regular cylinder filter that is basically floating inside the stock lower air box as it is connected to the MAF. I would like a cylinder foam filter I guess. K&N from what I saw online is mostly pre-oiled filters and Alta also sells foam filters, but also from what I saw they are too oil foam filters. Basically I would like a non-oil or oil free foam filter. Who sells these, can't seems to find any like this. However, HKS sells the Mushroom Oil-Free Foam Filter for EVOs and Soobies, but I don't think this setup will work in my DDM Works Intake. Thanks.

 

No, it means the current scanner (your ScanGauge) isn't reading the MINI-protocol correctly.
Try using a MINI approved scanner like a Bavarian Technic unit or the factory service scanner [like at an independent repair shop].

- Erik

 

Ok, I will stop by my nearest Import Shop that services EVOs and Soobies, as they have been doing my mods, like my res delete. Thx!

 

Amsoil Dry Filter is one of the few that does not need oil. I don't think it will work with a DDM CAI.

Put your stock CAI back on...poof, no more red MAF.

If you want a CAI that works without the hassle, JCW Stage 1 with the Amsoil dry filter.

 

I am guessing they mean they will reset the adaptives so the car doesn't have any info from the old sensor. I'm pretty sure aside from maybe not running perfectly in the beginning, it should figure it out on its own over time. Do a bunch of stop/start cycles, not just mileage. After 3 of 4 starts and 25 miles or so the car should be fine.

Point is at 1 bar, the old sensor may give 3.534 volts and the new one give 3.223 volts and the car thinks you are now at the top of pikes peak.

Just a guess, but that is the computer reset I am imagining, though I be 90% of older minis never have that done. Probably more like 100% of minis that have work done at places other than the dealer.

 

So after thinking about what I should do, I really have not decided. I have taken it to a import shop near me as they service MINIs and BMWs, but they still have to tell me if they have the latest scanner to scan for my codes. They said they have up to 2008 to scan for codes, but they said they would get back with me about it. They also said that they could program my MINI if I were to install an OEM MAF Sensor. Til then I will hold out.

I did call MINI of Annapolis and MINI of Montgomery County to see what they had to say about default mode and if the MAF has to be reprogrammed. I first called Montgomery and they said that the MAF is plug and play. They also said that default mode is B******t! I then was like OK, no worries. I then called Annapolis and they said that the MAF needs to be reprogrammed and that Default Mode is a program in the ECU telling the engine to run as close to stock as possible. But its not stock. They also told me that its not that they are programming the MAF to work with everything else, you are basically letting the engine and ECU know that you are adding a new part or a replacement part. MINI of Annapolis also told me that MINI of Montgomery County just opened up a month ago and the techs are just learning the MINIs, so their experience is just not there yet!! They said that if you are to trust anyone it would be your own dealership or us here at Annapolis, as 2 specific (and he named them, one guys name is Robert) has been here for 4 years and the other guys has been here for 8 years and they know what they are talking about.

When I went to the import shop near me, the tech confirmed the same things that MINI of Annapolis said about default mode, being close to the stock mapping and that the MAF needs to be told that it is being added to the engine and ECU to confirm this. So (2) MINI Dealers and an Import Shop said the same things.

For the time being however, I will stay away from the Dealer and see where this Import Shop will lead me. My MINI has been idling not as bad since after taking it to the Dealer and cleaning it myself with CRC MAF Sensor Cleaner, its not stuttering when accelerating, and the miss fire I have not really taking notice of. So I really won't replace the sensor unless it starts to get real bad or my MPG starts to drop drastically.

1. One question for you guys is, if the MAF sensor was completely shot, then why is it still reading Air Intake Temperature on my ScanGauge correctly? You know what I mean. I am half tempted to remove the sensor cable from the MAF, start the car, and see if it reads Air Intake Temp. If it does then the MAF is not sensing the air for temp, and something else is, but one would assume that the MAF is sensing the air temp. If it doesn't read the temp, then I know that the sensor is not completely faulty. However, I am afraid that if I do remove the cable from the sensor it will spring a CEL and then the car will be in limp mode, and I don't want that. Now one would think that I could just clear it with my ScanGauge, but to tell the truth I have not cleared any CEL codes, just the codes that are in the pending codes bank. I mean the ScanGauge is suppose to clear CEL codes, but will it really, and if it doesn't then I have to go back to the Dealer so that they can clear the code and charge me an additional $62 bucks to clear the code.

Anyway, let me know what you guys think about the MAF actually sending info to the ECU to show me on my ScanGauge, in the Intake Air Temp Gauge?

 

From the service manual on replacing a MAF, there ZERO reference on "programming" or requiring adaptation to such.
Simply install, clear any fault codes present, and drive.

Because the Intake Air Temperaure (IAT) is not in the MAF, it's integrated with the MAP sensor on the passenger side hard-boost tube.
Why such? The ECU wants to read post-intercooler temps to adjust ignition timing, not pre-turbo when the air is compressed and heated.

- Erik

 

If you choose to believe K&N's test results, the connection between oiled air filters and MAF failures is an urban myth:

http://www.knfilters.com/maf/MAFTestresults.htm

Granted, they have a financial interest in supporting their claim but the history and data look fairly extensive.

 

I really do appreciate you sending me the link to this extensive K&N document about K&N filters not making MAFs fail. I wonder if I bring this to the dealership will they not charge me and decide to replace my MAF under warranty. So even if I over oiled my filter (which I did) it still would not cause MAF failure do to the fact that K&N Filter Oil does not have any contaminates in the oil to contaminate the sensor.

In the documents that came with my bill when they said they clean the MAF Sensor, it just states the Filter Oil was all over the sensor, so that would conclude that Filter Oil would be the cause of my MAF Failure. My MAF must be faulty if they say the computer reads that, but it became faulty not by my own doing, but from wear and tear on the engine pushing contaminates into the MAF. So all in all, my MAF should be replaced under warranty, if the computer deals it so to be faulty and not fully operational. Other wise, my car could be idling heavy, stuttering when accelerating and mis-firing for some other known or unknown reason.

 

That really doesn't make sense that it wants to read post temps, they must have some kind of reasoning behind this theory. IMO, pre-temps would make sense, since you would see exactly or close to exactly how hot or cold the air is entering the turbo.

Regardless, I believe your statement about the MAF not requiring any programming, however could you help with where I could purchase or locate the Service Manual?

 

Try putting the stock box back on, cleaning the maf, and disconnecting the battery (followed by pressing on the brake a few times to drain the rest of the residual power in the car), and reconnect everything. It will allow your ecu to readapt to environmental settings and driving... which may help.

 

After thinking about it a little more, if I were to go to the dealership and plead my case that K&N Oil Filter does not cause MAF failure, they could easily come back and say, "Ok, the oil did not cause the MAF to fail, but because you over oiled it, it took the contaminates from the filter thru the oil and then those contaminates inside the oil caused your sensor to fail." Again going back to how would they possibly know this, they wouldn't; unless they had a microscope to see what contaminates were actually on the sensor and they wouldn't be able to do this unless they had the same setup as K&N. So they would really not be able to prove this, but they could definitely just say this and their I am out of luck again. What do you both think?

 

The only issue I would have with putting the stock box back on and performing this procedure is that I do not have the stock filter anymore, because I ripped it when I removed it from unistalling the stock system. I basically just need to purchase another drop-in filter, I guess I could just purchase one from outmotoring.com.

I have read that doing what you state clears and resets the ECU as well as any presets in the car, however, that is a small price to pay for a clean running machine. But how do you know about doing this, and why did you need to do this or have you not done this yourself? Has anybody really done this and no if it reset back to stock settings or if it screws up the ECU and Engine more than what it is now.

 

You want post-temps (after the intercooler) because that's the air entering the combustion chamber.
That temp dictates ignition timing (for knock) and fuel amount.

The amount of "air" entering the turbocharger is irrelivant; the MAF only cares what's being pulled into the system.
Once the intake air is metered it can be measured by pressure (that why two MAP sensors) and temperature which is POST-turbo.
Remember, the ECU thinks of the entire intake system as a control volume; remember your fluid mechanics & thermodynamics class?
So if there's a variance of amount of air going in and out, the ECU not only registers that but also has a fault code for specific instances.

Enterance temps to the turbo are NOT of the ECU concerns.
Only the outbound pressure and post-IC temp are critical to determine stoichometric fuel mixtures.

Amazon.com; search for Bentley Publications.

Or a local auto parts store chain.

- Erik

 

Ok, so it has officially been two weeks since the last post that I made about the MAF Sensor. I still have yet to go back to the Dealer as I believe they were wrong about the MAF Sensor. (however i need to go back because they need to replace my time tensioner chain and fix my timing which was off, they said that it would be under warrranty) Since I last made a post I have install new NGK spark plugs, that I got from Amazon and a new o2 Sensor from Bavarian Autosport, and for the past 4 days the car has been running nice and performance is back up. Now the MAF sensor could still be bad.... but I am improving on mpg. So 6 months the MAF might be an issue, but I did replace the o2 sensor specifically because that was the code on the scanner. N my cylinder 4 was misfiring and I think that was due to the spark plug that I removed and found that the ceramic was cracked and it was burn or firing past the part of the plug that is not suppose to do that. Just wanted to provide an update.

 

I wonder if, in theory, we can delete the MAF since we have 2 MAP sensors reading everything?

 

Euro models dont use maf

 

That's very true and I did notice in some pictures I was looking a little while back, I believe that was the N14 engine.

I wonder what the major difference is? Tune? Or is there just no MAF.

I wonder if the US models can do it? Specifically the N18.

 

https://www.enginebasics.com/EFI%20T...0vs%20MAF.html

 

1) They are correct about aftermarket air filter systems which use oil as a medium for trapping dirt and particles. However, over oiling is not necessarily the reason why. It has always been my estimation that ANY oiled filter in a MINI ( 2009 - up ) using aftermarket oiled filters will eventually need a new MAF Sensor.

The reason is that in most other manufacturer of cars their MAF wire heats up after every engine shut down to 2,000 degrees for few seconds to burn off any impurities which may have attached itself to the wire....MINI's MAF does not do this.

If you have an "aftersales" JCW airbox system ( which takes the round cone style, same filter used in the JCW R53's ) you can replace that oiled type filter with this one from AMSOIL. They have blue high flow dry filters available. They're dry, reusable / cleanable. https://www.ecstuning.com/b-amsoil-p...r/eaau3570~ao/


If you have a factory JCW which came with the standard airbox filter system.....or if you have a stock filter system...this is a dry one also reusable and cleanable....
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-afe-part...ry-s/31-10174/



My second point is this....When it comes to engine managment systems like O2 sensors and such, most folks I know haven't had much luck with aftermarket replacements....eventually codes come up due to ohm resistence conflicts ( maybe due to inferior copper wiring or connectors ? ) and keeps receiving a CEL until a genuine MINI part is installed. That said, I would not be too hasty in giving up your old MAF sensor "as a core" for some other POS aftermarket brand....If it doesn't work and you end up needing to purchase an OEM part, MINI will not take the aftermarket part for their core. Every quarter BMW flags for core returns and that would be high on their list so you would be stuck paying the core fee....

As far as labor goes...yeah it's an simple and easy install. But the work is guaranteed, and it's part of developing a long term relationship with your dealer. Should something else happen later down the road needing monitarial consideration, or their having to ask BMW to step up for you, it's this sort of client loyalty which will get you that help. Basically they'll be in better position with BMW to help you. Additionally, the part is also being installed by a certified and qualified tech. It costs money to maintain and run a large ethical automotive business these days with all the new regulations. One which doesn't take short cuts with respect to training and safety for their techs, proper tools, proper disposal of oil, freon, coolant and other chemicals used throughout the day....even empty cans of brake clean and alike can no longer go into the regular trash or be subjected to hefty fines during spot checks.