This weekend I'm replacing the two suspension bushings in the front control arms. I purchased the bushings installed in the carrier housing. I understand that there are 2 bolts in each housing that get torqued to 122 ft lbs. And there is a single bolt in each one that ties the housing to the body. Torque is 44 lbs plus a 1/4 turn.

Question: Is the carrier to body bolt a single use only type bolt. Meaning I have to use a new bolt in that location? The bolt is substantial in size and at 44 lb torque I can't imagine it stretches with that little torque.

Thanks for your response

 

Bentley makes no mention of any single use fasteners related to the control arms, bushings, struts, or indeed anywhere in section 310.

Perhaps someone knows the factory story?

I think you're a doggone professional - but I'd completely buy your theory that with such a low torque spec a stout fastener like that would not require replacement.

Cheers,

Charlie

 

That carrier to body bolt is a stretch bolt and is designated a one time use. I go with the theory that the designers know what they are doing and follow their recommendations especially with a suspension bolt.
Steve

 

My Haynes Manual makes no mention of the replacement of that bolt...however the Haynes manual @ $19.00 is void of a considerable amount of information.

Can you verify the torque spec's for both sets of bolts. Haynes makes no mention on the torque settings on their torque spec page for the suspension components..

 

Technically it is a one time use bolt they say, but I've done well over 100 sets and not replaced that bolt and not had one come loose or fall out so just reuse it. You'll be fine

 

Thanks for your response Way Motor Works. I just picked up 2 at the dealership @ $11.00 each. Since I have them I'll use them.

Do I need to be concerned how the control arm hex end (male) aligns with the hex (female) bushing before pushing it on? I haven't seen any mention on the proper entry alignment of the one into the other. I don't want to find out after the fact that I miss aligned the position putting unnecessary strain on the bushing.

 

I'm actually doing mine this weekend as well... I'm hoping to do it by only lowering the subframe, but I guess I'll see how that goes... got a feeling I'll end up having to drop all together.

 

I'm also going to start by lowering the subframe. If I can't get it done that way, then I'll drop the subframe. I'm trying to avoid messing with separating the ball joints.

I'm fortunate to have use of a car lift so it's like cheating a bit on these projects.

 

Follow-up to project:
Job is complete. Lots of hours. Here's some valuable tips:
#1. Remove sub frame. Just lowering it was of no use.
#2. The steering U-Joint after the bolt is removed slides off the post sideways. It doesn't pull off the stub when you lower the sub frame.
#3. Don't forget to reattach the headlight leveling switch (if your car has one) when you are bolting the ball joint back on to the control arm, before reinstalling the sub frame back in the car.
#4. It helps to have someone assist by guiding the ps fluid reservoir out and back in the car when lowering and then re-installing the sub frame. Also if you don't have access to a car lift, you'll need about 2.5' of height to get the reservoir to clear the under carriage when you drop the sub frame.

The new busings make a huge difference in the feel of the car.

BTY Replace both of them at the same time, even if one side looks ok. Its too much work to do the job twice.

 

Did you use OE, or go Powerflex?

 

I used OEM bushings that came pressed in the carrier housing. I was happy with the way the car felt 10 years ago when I bought it, plus I don't drive nearly as aggressively as I used to.

Regardless which you go with, new bushings make an amazing improvement over the old blown out ones. A lot of noises disappeared including what sounded like a drive shaft clunk between shifts.