Hi all

I am planning on using the famous 2x4 method for getting my r52 conv. up on jack stands (unless there's a better way...)

my current concern is what jack stands best work with the jack points on the R52 conv. I can see how some jack stands would work much better than others... Any suggestions on what style/size to look for?

Alternately, I'm condsidering machining 4 blocks of aluminum that would go inside the jack point cups and protrude a bit below the bottom of them with a wide base. Is this a good idea or a terrible idea?
This looks like what i'm thinking -- do they work well?
http://www.mossmini.com/Shop/ViewPro...ingFlashBanner

Also, perhaps this is a stupid question, but why don't people get 4 hydraulic jacks, put them under the jack points and work on the car like that?
The problems I forsee would be the jacks bleeding slowly or breaking, which could be protected against with some cinderblocks next to them for protection.
The other problem i can imagine is the jacks rolling... but it seems like they could be chocked to prevent that...

thanks!

 

last question first - and you have the answer: the entire reason for stands is because you should NEVER trust a jack - one of the first safety rules taught in autoshop 101

When selecting stands be aware of their size - height. I foolishly bought a set of 6 ton stands when they were on sale and at their lowest setting they are WAY taller then I need for the MINI or the Mini. WAY overkill. I had a pair of 2 tons which are very good and wanted 2 pair so I could have all 4 wheels off - but I was tempred by an impulse buy when the bigger stands were on sale . . .

I just cut some blocks of hardwood to use as you describe the metal blocks. Easy to do

 

So hydraulic jacks and some cinderblocks for protection aren't a good substitute for the shell game of getting our cars up onto jack stands?

If i go with the inserts for the jack points (metal, wood, hockey puck or otherwise), should i get saddle type jack stands or flat tops?

What's the downside to jack stands that are too high? seems like a lot of room under the car would be nice, the major downside being working from above would get harder... and if the flood jack couldn't get up high enough... anything else?

What's a good height for jack stands?

 

So the reason to put car up on jack stands is store it for the winter , so not to get flat spot on tires ? My tire guy said with new tires you don't need to put them up , just put rubber mat on floor under tires.

 

I have the wheel dollies that are rounded to shape of tire would they be safe over 3 or 4 months.

 

Wheel dollies or ramps are nice, but not helpful if you need to remove the wheels. My first major job is going to be an oil pan gasket/seal job.

 

I prefer hockey pucks to 2x4's though I guess the weight isn't as well distributed...

I followed the example in this link: http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=481910

 

So hydraulic jacks and some cinderblocks for protection aren't a good substitute for the shell game of getting our cars up onto jack stands?

cinderblocks serving as jackstands are fine ... not pretty ... but as many college students looking for shelves have learned ... they work

If i go with the inserts for the jack points (metal, wood, hockey puck or otherwise), should i get saddle type jack stands or flat tops?

You force me to go into more detail then I planned. My my eye, the issue is not slamming the MINI's jack blocks which are easy to break. Using cheapo Harbor Freight jack stands with 'saddle' type heads I find that lowering the weight carefully and slowly is a perfectly adequate way to protect the jack blocks. BTW I've been working on MINIs and Minis for folks out of my garage (at no charge) for commin' on 10 years . . . . if you still worry, put a block in the jack point (I have) but I don't find it necessary anymore.

What's the downside to jack stands that are too high? seems like a lot of room under the car would be nice, the major downside being working from above would get harder... and if the flood jack couldn't get up high enough... anything else?

valid question .... how high does your jack lift . . . . My very low profile jack could not lift enuf to clear the lowest stand setting of a 6 ton stand.... silly me (I did find that if I removed the adjustable part of the stand and just rested the car on the base - it worked.)

 

http://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-640.../dp/B003ULZGFU
that looks pretty neat, any reason not to go with a jack stand like that one if i can find one that starts out low enough to get under the jack points?

Perhaps I can't find one that starts out low enough and yet travels high enough?

 

I've seen several companies come out with combined jack / stand gizmo's and none of them have stayed in production long. Sears/Craftsman had one for a while; problem was a pair of those stands cost way more than a comparable jack and a set of stands. My 07-s needs the jack to be under 6 inches for it to get under the car and be useful... what you post has 11 inches as the bottom . . . and are over $50 each. (I see tractor supply is supposed to have for $30 each)

MINI is a case where sometimes less is more. I bought a small rolling jack and a pair of stands for $29 and it works great for my MINI, Mini, and Honda/s, even an Element if I just sit it on a block of wood. Something like this is a decent starter . . . .

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ier=838181_0_0_

or most any week you can find a HarborFreight jack and a pair of stands and be out the door for under $100.


I'd say approach your question from the other side:

pick your jack keeping in mind the minimum height of the jack is important so it can get under your car; then get a set of stands that will work with the height the jack can lift to..... In most cases the jack is going to be the pricy item and there are a lot of choices to be made; but IMO a jack stand is a jack stand and paying more than Harbor Freight charges is a waste of money.

 

Re: Cinderblocks
Anything that joe-karate can halve with a haw-ya chop I wouldn't trust saving my life when 2500lbs come falling down.

 

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Another low cost option is to get a set of rhino ramps for those times when you don't need all the wheels off the ground, then when you do need to use the jack-stands you can simply put the car up on the ramps and then you can place the floor jack under the sub-frame at the front of the car to lift it up centrally and get the jack stands in place. Then you can put the floor jack under one of the rear control arm connection in the center of the car and do the same with the rear jack stands.

Doing it this way eliminates the possibility of the car tipping the jack stands as you try and lift the other side of the car from the side.

And to answer the OP's original question........the saddle type of stand will work just fine. But the flat top ones are easier to position correctly.

 

I was asking about the wheel dollies for storage about 4 months. would the fact that they are shaped like the wheel help with flat spots.

 

Don't know where you were going with this.

 

It will help, but you are still going to get some deformation of the tire. How severe will it be.......not very. Only a little better than not using anything at all. As long as the tires are inflated properly (36-38) and they don't leak you shouldn't have any problem with flat spots. If they do have a bit of a flat spot it will be cured with a little driving. This allows the tires to heat up and "release" any deformities in the tire.

 

Today, when I was searching about the best jack stands I find this old thread. Please recommend me few jack stands name. I read lots of article about jack stand like this theeffectiveguide.com. This is the 1st time I am going to buy. Thus, I need advice from experience member like you.

 

I would say the advice given above is still relevant. I personally use a low profile hydraulic jack I got from Harbor Freight with a 2' long 2X4 to raise each side of the car. I don't have the inserts and have never had any problems supporting my R50. I just center the jack stands under the jack/lift points and slowly let the jack down. Then I repeat on the opposite side of the car.