My Broken 2012 Cooper S
I feel your frustration. A lot of times the dealer is required by the manufacturer to go through diagnostic routines. Even if they suspect they know what's wrongMini may be telling them what to do to eliminate what might not be wrong.
I think getting Mini to rent you a car in your home town sounds like a good idea. Giving them time to fix is better than going back again. cars today are complicated. Don't care which brand you have some issues. Lexus replaced a car for me they could not fix.
It's when things can nit be fixed or constantly break that I get upset. you should get loaner, send a letter to Mini and get an explanation of what is going on .
Hopefully once you are thru this all will be well.
2012 BRG HT due early Oct.
I think getting Mini to rent you a car in your home town sounds like a good idea. Giving them time to fix is better than going back again. cars today are complicated. Don't care which brand you have some issues. Lexus replaced a car for me they could not fix.
It's when things can nit be fixed or constantly break that I get upset. you should get loaner, send a letter to Mini and get an explanation of what is going on .
Hopefully once you are thru this all will be well.
2012 BRG HT due early Oct.
Computer Hackers hit the Road
I just read this article in Automotive News that really get to the complexity issue. Not only do MFG have to deal with mechanical issues now they have to deal with in car computers and virus issues.
This is a quote from the article:
"The entertainment system is as connected to the car as the brakes. Advanced systems today get information about the street from the navigation systems. Navigation runs on the same system as the multimedia applications. If someone attached the navigation system , he cold get access to the full car. "
And, "Researchers at the University of California at San Diego and the University of Washington agree. The team published a paper in August warning that there are plenty of ****** in the automobiles armor. Among their realistic scenarios: A virus enters the vehicle through a downloaded piece of music and interferes with the controls. A hacker attacks the car using the same wireless frequency as its remote keyless entry. Hackers reach into vehicle control units (Maybe even a EME. My add.) by long range broadcast, using the auto's global positioning system as a receiver."
"Those scenarios are based on existing vehicle technology." end quote.
My point is that the car today is so sophisticated that it takes a lot of work sometime to solve the problems. Especially in a high tech car like the Mini.
Anyway, I thought the article was interesting.
I have provided the link below if you want to read the article.
I think the link will work.
http://www.autonews.com/apps/pbcs.dl...309199991/1182
This is a quote from the article:
"The entertainment system is as connected to the car as the brakes. Advanced systems today get information about the street from the navigation systems. Navigation runs on the same system as the multimedia applications. If someone attached the navigation system , he cold get access to the full car. "
And, "Researchers at the University of California at San Diego and the University of Washington agree. The team published a paper in August warning that there are plenty of ****** in the automobiles armor. Among their realistic scenarios: A virus enters the vehicle through a downloaded piece of music and interferes with the controls. A hacker attacks the car using the same wireless frequency as its remote keyless entry. Hackers reach into vehicle control units (Maybe even a EME. My add.) by long range broadcast, using the auto's global positioning system as a receiver."
"Those scenarios are based on existing vehicle technology." end quote.
My point is that the car today is so sophisticated that it takes a lot of work sometime to solve the problems. Especially in a high tech car like the Mini.
Anyway, I thought the article was interesting.
I have provided the link below if you want to read the article.
I think the link will work.
http://www.autonews.com/apps/pbcs.dl...309199991/1182
Heh, and keyless entry systems tend to be several years behind in security measures. There was one point where David Beckham had several BMW X5s stolen because the thieves read a couple of signals from someone using the keyless entry system on the cars, decrypted the signal, and broadcast a fake signal to open the doors.
Hopefully automakers have woken up since that time (more than a couple of years ago now!!) and are using better encryption.
Hopefully automakers have woken up since that time (more than a couple of years ago now!!) and are using better encryption.
Mini has a very unique DNA thanks to the designers and engineers driving product sales; some downstreamers seem to be hanging out for the ride hints the occasional lack of concern and complacency.
The dealers/retailers (in all industries) in some cases wants to make you feel like if you make waves to drive results you’re the bad seed, in reality they do not want their inability to provide good service exposed. Not saying this is the case, but I would suggest calling Mini USA and telling them what you require.
Best of luck,
The dealers/retailers (in all industries) in some cases wants to make you feel like if you make waves to drive results you’re the bad seed, in reality they do not want their inability to provide good service exposed. Not saying this is the case, but I would suggest calling Mini USA and telling them what you require.
Best of luck,
Last edited by HorseWithNoName; Nov 17, 2011 at 02:32 AM. Reason: Edit
But hey, I have been told to expect the car today. It's been 8 days in the shop now, so I'm really hoping to get it back.
I've also been trying to get the dealership to install my missing paddle shifters while they have the car. So far, no word on that.
That doesn't seem to be the case in CA. As far as I know, it needs to have the same problem 3 times within a specified period of time, or it needs to be in the shop at least 20 days for the same problem within 12 months. Something to that extent anyway.
But hey, I have been told to expect the car today. It's been 8 days in the shop now, so I'm really hoping to get it back.
I've also been trying to get the dealership to install my missing paddle shifters while they have the car. So far, no word on that.
But hey, I have been told to expect the car today. It's been 8 days in the shop now, so I'm really hoping to get it back.
I've also been trying to get the dealership to install my missing paddle shifters while they have the car. So far, no word on that.
Hopefully and likely you will never have another major issue other than minor knickknacks.
Sounds like “Road Trip Time” grab a friend this weekend and “break that puppy in right”.
Have fun and be safe...
Sounds like “Road Trip Time” grab a friend this weekend and “break that puppy in right”.
Have fun and be safe...
P.S. The automatic is a great performing transmission, I met my wife for lunch the other day and we ended up side by side at a red light, well you know what happened next and she pulled me off the line. She asked if the John Cooper Works turning kit was designed to make me slower
or did she need to give me driving lessons.
or did she need to give me driving lessons.
Last edited by HorseWithNoName; Nov 17, 2011 at 02:34 AM. Reason: edit
I heard from the dealer's service manager a short time ago. He said the car is running great and all ready to go. I'm hoping to see it when I get home from work.
As for the diagnosis, I have a bit more info for anyone who is still interested and for any future readers of this thread. I'll try to load this up with key search terms...
So the reason the engine got upset was supposedly a "bad" DME. I originally heard "EME", but I have now confirmed that the correct acronym is "DME". I still didn't know what a DME was, so I looked it up. It turns out the "DME" is actually just another name for the ECU. So my ECU went bad.
Just for kicks, here's what Wikipedia has to say about DME...
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Digital Motor Electronics (DME) is a microprocessor based system that controls the ignition, fuel injection, oxygen sensor, and numerous ancillary functions of an automobile. The DME provides raw data to an on-board computer that uses an alphanumeric display to provide you with information such as the average fuel consumption, the driving distance available with the fuel in the tank, average speed, outside temperature, etc.
In the automotive industry, DME is often referred to as the Engine Control Unit (ECU), under the heading of Electronic Engine Management Systems. DME operates by continually monitoring such factors as engine temperature, speed, intake airflow, exhaust gas composition, and even altitude. DME can fine-tune the engine hundreds of times a second to provide maximum performance and efficiency. DME has a fail-safe program in the event of certain electrical faults. Current DME versions also have on-board diagnostics (OBD).
----------------------------------------------------------------------
And why did the ECU go bad? Apparently there was an unshielded wiring harness leading to the oil pressure sensor, and the wiring was getting chafed and/or melted during the first few miles of driving. By the time I reached 200 miles, the unprotected wiring gave out and either shorted or just failed to establish a connection anymore. The next part is a bit lost on me, but apparently this bad wiring somehow toasted the whole ECU. So even after the wiring was replaced, the ECU was dead in the water. After installing a new ECU and waiting the many hours it takes for the new ECU to "mate" with the car, everything now seems to be working as it should.
I'll report back when I receive the vehicle.
As for the diagnosis, I have a bit more info for anyone who is still interested and for any future readers of this thread. I'll try to load this up with key search terms...
So the reason the engine got upset was supposedly a "bad" DME. I originally heard "EME", but I have now confirmed that the correct acronym is "DME". I still didn't know what a DME was, so I looked it up. It turns out the "DME" is actually just another name for the ECU. So my ECU went bad.
Just for kicks, here's what Wikipedia has to say about DME...
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Digital Motor Electronics (DME) is a microprocessor based system that controls the ignition, fuel injection, oxygen sensor, and numerous ancillary functions of an automobile. The DME provides raw data to an on-board computer that uses an alphanumeric display to provide you with information such as the average fuel consumption, the driving distance available with the fuel in the tank, average speed, outside temperature, etc.
In the automotive industry, DME is often referred to as the Engine Control Unit (ECU), under the heading of Electronic Engine Management Systems. DME operates by continually monitoring such factors as engine temperature, speed, intake airflow, exhaust gas composition, and even altitude. DME can fine-tune the engine hundreds of times a second to provide maximum performance and efficiency. DME has a fail-safe program in the event of certain electrical faults. Current DME versions also have on-board diagnostics (OBD).
----------------------------------------------------------------------
And why did the ECU go bad? Apparently there was an unshielded wiring harness leading to the oil pressure sensor, and the wiring was getting chafed and/or melted during the first few miles of driving. By the time I reached 200 miles, the unprotected wiring gave out and either shorted or just failed to establish a connection anymore. The next part is a bit lost on me, but apparently this bad wiring somehow toasted the whole ECU. So even after the wiring was replaced, the ECU was dead in the water. After installing a new ECU and waiting the many hours it takes for the new ECU to "mate" with the car, everything now seems to be working as it should.
I'll report back when I receive the vehicle.
I heard from the dealer's service manager a short time ago. He said the car is running great and all ready to go. I'm hoping to see it when I get home from work.
As for the diagnosis, I have a bit more info for anyone who is still interested and for any future readers of this thread. I'll try to load this up with key search terms...
So the reason the engine got upset was supposedly a "bad" DME. I originally heard "EME", but I have now confirmed that the correct acronym is "DME". I still didn't know what a DME was, so I looked it up. It turns out the "DME" is actually just another name for the ECU. So my ECU went bad.
Just for kicks, here's what Wikipedia has to say about DME...
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Digital Motor Electronics (DME) is a microprocessor based system that controls the ignition, fuel injection, oxygen sensor, and numerous ancillary functions of an automobile. The DME provides raw data to an on-board computer that uses an alphanumeric display to provide you with information such as the average fuel consumption, the driving distance available with the fuel in the tank, average speed, outside temperature, etc.
In the automotive industry, DME is often referred to as the Engine Control Unit (ECU), under the heading of Electronic Engine Management Systems. DME operates by continually monitoring such factors as engine temperature, speed, intake airflow, exhaust gas composition, and even altitude. DME can fine-tune the engine hundreds of times a second to provide maximum performance and efficiency. DME has a fail-safe program in the event of certain electrical faults. Current DME versions also have on-board diagnostics (OBD).
----------------------------------------------------------------------
And why did the ECU go bad? Apparently there was an unshielded wiring harness leading to the oil pressure sensor, and the wiring was getting chafed and/or melted during the first few miles of driving. By the time I reached 200 miles, the unprotected wiring gave out and either shorted or just failed to establish a connection anymore. The next part is a bit lost on me, but apparently this bad wiring somehow toasted the whole ECU. So even after the wiring was replaced, the ECU was dead in the water. After installing a new ECU and waiting the many hours it takes for the new ECU to "mate" with the car, everything now seems to be working as it should.
I'll report back when I receive the vehicle.
As for the diagnosis, I have a bit more info for anyone who is still interested and for any future readers of this thread. I'll try to load this up with key search terms...
So the reason the engine got upset was supposedly a "bad" DME. I originally heard "EME", but I have now confirmed that the correct acronym is "DME". I still didn't know what a DME was, so I looked it up. It turns out the "DME" is actually just another name for the ECU. So my ECU went bad.
Just for kicks, here's what Wikipedia has to say about DME...
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Digital Motor Electronics (DME) is a microprocessor based system that controls the ignition, fuel injection, oxygen sensor, and numerous ancillary functions of an automobile. The DME provides raw data to an on-board computer that uses an alphanumeric display to provide you with information such as the average fuel consumption, the driving distance available with the fuel in the tank, average speed, outside temperature, etc.
In the automotive industry, DME is often referred to as the Engine Control Unit (ECU), under the heading of Electronic Engine Management Systems. DME operates by continually monitoring such factors as engine temperature, speed, intake airflow, exhaust gas composition, and even altitude. DME can fine-tune the engine hundreds of times a second to provide maximum performance and efficiency. DME has a fail-safe program in the event of certain electrical faults. Current DME versions also have on-board diagnostics (OBD).
----------------------------------------------------------------------
And why did the ECU go bad? Apparently there was an unshielded wiring harness leading to the oil pressure sensor, and the wiring was getting chafed and/or melted during the first few miles of driving. By the time I reached 200 miles, the unprotected wiring gave out and either shorted or just failed to establish a connection anymore. The next part is a bit lost on me, but apparently this bad wiring somehow toasted the whole ECU. So even after the wiring was replaced, the ECU was dead in the water. After installing a new ECU and waiting the many hours it takes for the new ECU to "mate" with the car, everything now seems to be working as it should.
I'll report back when I receive the vehicle.
Hope you'll keep us up to date on how things are going (pls include pics).
Also, u may wish to get the diagnosis in writing before writing MINI USA.
Then let us know the outcome after your write MINI about the issue - crazy that a new car should have an oversight like that.
I did not read anything but the original post, so maybe someone has already covered this, but make sure you keep very detailed written notes about timelines and what is going on and all the conversations you have with MINI or the dealer in case you need to Lemon Law the car at some point.
I think most of you have missed the point... Yes, Mini is attempting to make the situation right by the customer, BUT, this type of problem should not have happened to a brand new car just off the lot...
I love my MINI as there is nothing else I have found in the same price range, weight-to-power ratio and that handles like a go kart... That doesn't mean that I'm not looking for a replacement though... If Ford sold the Focus RS in the US, it would be a done deal...
I love my MINI as there is nothing else I have found in the same price range, weight-to-power ratio and that handles like a go kart... That doesn't mean that I'm not looking for a replacement though... If Ford sold the Focus RS in the US, it would be a done deal...
R*C, I know how you feel. Years ago my wife wanted a new Volvo S60. We bought a brand new 2001 S60. Well....... We brought the car home and noticed an oil leak. Took it to the dealer probably 5 or 6 times within the first 3 months of ownership. At the end of the 3 months the dealer offered to take the car back under the lemon law. They replaced the car with a 2003 S60. It gets better....... this car spent 42 days in service the first year. Engine light was always on. They replaced everything. This went on for the first 50K miles until they finally replaced the computer. That fixed it.
Keep your chin up. They will get it back to normal.
Keep your chin up. They will get it back to normal.
Man alive.
.
And why did the ECU go bad? Apparently there was an unshielded wiring harness leading to the oil pressure sensor, and the wiring was getting chafed and/or melted during the first few miles of driving. By the time I reached 200 miles, the unprotected wiring gave out and either shorted or just failed to establish a connection anymore. The next part is a bit lost on me, but apparently this bad wiring somehow toasted the whole ECU. So even after the wiring was replaced, the ECU was dead in the water. After installing a new ECU and waiting the many hours it takes for the new ECU to "mate" with the car, everything now seems to be working as it should.
I'll report back when I receive the vehicle.
And why did the ECU go bad? Apparently there was an unshielded wiring harness leading to the oil pressure sensor, and the wiring was getting chafed and/or melted during the first few miles of driving. By the time I reached 200 miles, the unprotected wiring gave out and either shorted or just failed to establish a connection anymore. The next part is a bit lost on me, but apparently this bad wiring somehow toasted the whole ECU. So even after the wiring was replaced, the ECU was dead in the water. After installing a new ECU and waiting the many hours it takes for the new ECU to "mate" with the car, everything now seems to be working as it should.
I'll report back when I receive the vehicle.
Let us know how she drives for you. Enjoy your new car and Motor On!!
Got it back and all is well. Running great with no problems. I will certainly update if anything else goes wrong. The service manager included about 8 pages of documentation detailing the whole problem and everything that was done. I am satisfied with the service and will rate the service department highly when the survey comes. However, I still plan to take up my beef with MINI USA in writing.
Got it back and all is well. Running great with no problems. I will certainly update if anything else goes wrong. The service manager included about 8 pages of documentation detailing the whole problem and everything that was done. I am satisfied with the service and will rate the service department highly when the survey comes. However, I still plan to take up my beef with MINI USA in writing.


Congrats - glad it worked out. And the 8-page report shows the seriousness they took with the problem, so glad to hear that as well.
Enjoy!
Got it back and all is well. Running great with no problems. I will certainly update if anything else goes wrong. The service manager included about 8 pages of documentation detailing the whole problem and everything that was done. I am satisfied with the service and will rate the service department highly when the survey comes. However, I still plan to take up my beef with MINI USA in writing.


Rotate tires every 5 K no matter what. Check your air pressure and oil level weekly and top off all other fluids at the same time.
If you do that your Mini will hum along for a long time with nary a problem.
That is a great looking ride. Have fun and enjoy it now!!
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