First off, please excuse me if this has been asked or if I'm posting the wrong place, I don't come on here enough. I did look for the answer and maybe I'm not finding it.

Today it's 102 degrees out and I've been running my air the last few times I have started my car. Today she acted a little weird, when the air would run she would act like she would stall but she never has and I used my key to open my windows and sunroof but it didn't roll down my passenger window, even though the button in the car rolled it down.

But then I went to go get gas and my baby wouldn't start. The lights would be dim but gradually become normal, the air still ran cold, none of my lights stayed on but she wouldn't start. Everytime I'd try to turn her over the window on the driver's side would nudge down in little bursts without hitting the button. The temp would read 33 degrees then back to 114. After a few tries, she started. I just had my alternator replaced last month and my battery checked, so I am pretty sure it's not those.

Could this possibly due to the excessive heat? I have a CVT 2003 Cooper and I know when the air is running she drives slower and has more lag. I'm wondering if the computer is having some glitches due to the heat or if it's an out and out computer not working. I really hope it's not that. But I don't know if the heat could just cause this to be a temp problem.

Thanks so much for any help you can give me.

 

now my car starts but i get service engine soon and EP which i see is a cvt issue. I'm on the fence of getting a new car. :(

 

How long since you replaced your battery? Our cars are notorious for having strange electrical problems when the battery is weak, batteries most often fail in extreme temperatures.

 

Short trips, especially when accessories are run (AC, wipers, radio) will bring out the worst in a battery. It takes a lot of juice to start a car, then since lots of stuff is running, the charge isn't as strong and the battery doesn't get fully topped off. So, as suggested, it may be the battery showing its weakness.

I suppose it could also be a slipping belt, but I think you would hear that.

 

If you take the car into most auto parts stores they will check the battery condition for free to see if that is your problem. They can also see if other aspects of your electrical system are performing as they should. Easy way to eliminate the battery as the culprit, or identify the battery as the culprit.

 

It's been extremely hot here as well and the A/C has been running at full blast. While stopped at a light I noticed the voltage dropped below 12 volts and the car went into limp mode with a trouble code that the ECU lost communication with the throttle position sensor (Probably due to the voltage drop). Since I still had the original 5 year battery in the car, I replaced it with a new one and all has been fine since.

 

my car is running now. my battery is fine and everything there is fine. i have the hated fault codes p1787 and p1698. i'm gonna try the relearn but i think with 80k miles and a cvt, it's time for annika and i to part ways.