I too have a loose metallic noise that lasts for about 20 seconds, usually shortly after I start it. It then appears to go away and not come back until I start it again. I have a 2006 Cooper Convertable S with 28,000 miles on it. Is this the death rattle that people are referring to? If it is what are the signs that it is getting worse and what am I looking at replaceing and how much would it cost? I thought it could have been a loose fan assembly but now am begining to wonder. Thank goodness for this forum as I have heard that some degree of rattling is a normal sound for this engine. I agree with thoose that wonder how is someone supposed to know about this and do feel on cars with such low milage Mini makes a grave error if it does not make this right. It reminds me of when GM permitted the paint that was literally peeling of it's cars to become driving billboards on why not to own GM. People are not wrong to expect a realitively trouble free driving experience for at least 60,000 miles regardless of the years owned. Especially since most of us have had cars that were trouble free with well over 100,000 miles. To have a relatively chronic problem ruin an engine with less then 40,000 miles on it would not be permitted of a domestic, Japanese, or Korean manufacturer and should not be the standard that Mini sets for itself. I do love my Mini however and hope I don't have to fork over any more money as I just spent $450.00 fixing a thermostat leak that I am not sure is really fixed.

 

This happened to my stock 2007 R56 turbo recently and I go out of warranty in November 2011. Worst sound I've ever heard come out of a car. Thankfully, it was repaired and I'm hoping all is well. I must admit that I am amongst the numbers who wonder if I can afford to keep this car after warranty runs out. I love the car and paid to extend the maintenance, but the warranty extension is really expensive (but sounds like it could be cheaper than not having it!!).

 

My story isn't all that different except with a better outcome. I, too, have a 2007 R56 with 50k miles that just rolled over out of warranty. I got it last year with 27k. Recently, my check engine light was popping on and off. I was vaguely aware of the "cold start" noise issue but didn't put two and two together. Topping off the oil level always made the noise always go away. We don't have too many cold days in L.A. so I figured it wasn't that big of a deal. Boy was I wrong.

Fortunately for me, I had my regular mechanic (Minicorsa) look at it and discovered that the tensioner had sheared off. He replaced it in less than an hour, including a run to the dealer. The part itself was only $25 from the dealer and is a pretty cheap looking plastic thing. I can see why the dealer had 25 in stock. They must be replacing these daily as R56s get to the end of warranty.

And for the record, I took it to the dealer not a month after I got it to find out what the deal was with the engine noise. I was told it was perfectly normal until the engine warmed up. I could see how a regular person might let this slide. This sounds like it should have been a recall rather than a "wait until it breaks" kind of thing.

 

cdelp, the cold start chatter/death rattle due to the timing chain tensioner is only an issue for R56 (2nd Gen) MCS models. If you have strange noises from your 2006, it is something else.

 

Well, I agree that a car should be reliable, I guess I grew up in a different time, when in order for your car to start each morning the owner had to be pretty involved. Keep the battery water topped off along with the radiator. Check the oil level and tire pressures weekly and top off as needed. New points, plugs condensor and air filter every 6,000 miles along with the oil change and on and on......

Nowadays people treat their cars like a computer - you turn it on and it's supposed to just work. Well, let me tell you how much work it is to keep my computer working - it's far more than my Clubman S!

My point it that folks today are not really knowledgeable about their car, how the engine works, what the parts are in there and what they do and so on, any more than most folks are about what's inside their comuputer and how it works. They just expect it to work......and I don't fault them for this, it's how the industry and life in general have progressed.

I guess I'm saying that for those folks there will be surpises and disappointments from time to time, because as long as machines are made by men, things will fail.....and while you can't often "fix" a dead plant, you can repair a car, it does not have to be replaced just because one component has failed.

 

WELL SAID Dave.

 

Interesting what aarchitect said about topping off the oil made the sound better initially. That's exactly what I experienced, but I'm really happy I decided to have the thing checked out or else the damage could have been a lot worse.

 

The fact that MINI issued a recall on the tensioner (i.e. acknowledging it was bad) may be you only hope here. I wouldn't talk to the dealer though. I'd go straight to MINI USA.

 

I don't think there's been a recall (although perhaps there should be -- but that's another topic); just a part revision. There's a difference from a legalistic standpoint...

 

Just a quick note to say that we recently heard / had the "death rattle"...

Took it to the dealership and the said that there was a technical bulletin out about this issue. Replaced the timing chain, tensioner, and guides.

2007 MCS hatchback with 49,500 miles and warranty date of June 2010.

Trying to buy an extended warranty today - wish me luck!!

 

I just bought a 5yr./100k warranty (till April 2016) from my Credit Union today - Route 66 "Easy Street" (factory like coverage). The loan officer rolled the $2163 cost into my auto loan (had paid my 2007 "S" down to $8,800).

I asked her if the Branch would back me up if I had problems with Route 66 - the Branch manager said "yes" - so I went with them instead of the MINI 100k/6yr. ($3600) which would have expired in Oct. 2014.

I am at 49k, so still have some Factory warranty - took it into independent mechanic last week for "end of warranty check", who found "oil leak" - was transmission seal (dealer kept it 4 days to drop transmission). This week he did front brakes for $440.

i had vacuum pump failure, bent valves, timing belt replacement a year ago at 33k.

Next step: rear wiper delete (parts at Lowes for $2.49!

 

Just having this done.... it is cause buy low oil pressure and causes the tensioner to fail, thus stretcing out the chain and destroying your vales and etc. Just had this done at 52,000 miles thank god for extended warranty!

 

I got it... it is worth every penny!!!

 

Definitely bought an extended warranty for the same reason.
Going naked without warranty protection can get lots more expensive than the warranty itself, so the warranty offers peace of mind and cost savings in the long run.

 

Look into extended warranty from paragon motor club. 5yr 100K fairly reasonable.

 

specially when you want to crank more HP out of an engine

 

Your 2006 Convertible S has the same motor as my 2006 Cooper S - a supercharger. So no, not the same rattle - check gen 1 forum as there are some supercharger failures that maybe preceded with the sound you are hearing

I am told the thermostat gasket design is not up to par and will need replacing more than once; my car at 38+k miles as had one already, as well as recently having it's passenger side motor mount self destruct. If these cars weren't so fun when they ran, I'd have a toyota.

 

i just noticed a knocking sound similar to what everyone is describing but it wasnt at start up. I just got my oil changed around 4 and then drove about 50 miles to my friends house, parked and then about 2 hours later drove it around the block about 2 miles, when coming up to a stop sign i heard it. Went back to his house and it was gone! Mini just checked the car over and said it was in tip top shape, do you think this could all just be in my head? even though my friend heard it as well, maybe just something in the dash rattleing or should i be conserned?

 

i heard it again and it was after it warmed up and driving a little and only when the clutch is released and in neutral.... throughout bearing? what do yall think?

 

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...d.php?t=244114

 

First thing to do with a suspected timing chain rattle: check your oil level. Low oil level will produce a rattle because of the way the tensioner is designed, and these turbocharged MINI's are known oil consumers.

Being a 2007, your MINI is almost certainly outside of warranty (4 years from in-service date). If the tensioner and/or timing chain need to be replaced, and you're not adept at such things yourself (and I don't think this repair is a particularly simple DIY), you can look for independent mechanics in your area who specialize in MINI's. The labor costs will be much lower than a dealer.

 

Just parked my 2007 MCS last night after hearing the timing chain rattle get worse over the last few days. It's an obvious unique sound, not a simple rattle. After reading this thread and numerous others, I'm not going to risk cratering my engine. I drove very modest over the last few days (rpm below 2200) and maybe it's cuz I've been listening more, but it was making me nervous.
So, I ordered the tensioner part earlier this week and parked the car last night. I noticed it was more obvious when the temp was cooler. Houston is suppose to drop into the low 40's tonight and I'd rather be on the safe side and not drive the car until it's fixed.
I just hope the tensioner buys me more time. I would imagine the full Tensioner Assembly will need to be replaced at some point, but if the tensioner bolt can take me through for another few months, then I can do the Assembly. Still researching, but I'm thinking of doing the Timing Chain myself, just need to get the repair manual.

 

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...d.php?t=244114

 

After 3 months I only had 1.5 quarts left in the motor. I believe the OCC/Dual Boost Port should keep/catch most oil normally used, but I've never experienced a motor that "used" so much oil. I have zero leaks and very perplexed with this oil usage. It's definitely made me keep a closer eye on the oil level.
I've accepted the design of the engine and dismiss it as "nature of the beast". The responsibility ulitmately falls on the owner, but it is a little disconcerning that I have to monitor the oil as closely as I do.

I did notice one interesting thing. The film on the rear of the car if you don't wash it for a couple of weeks is almost like a dried oil film. If you look at the design of the engine you can see that the turbo (the act of pulling the air) is ejecting the oil from the car in a very very light mist through the exhaust.

It will be interesting to see the difference once the OCC/Dual Boost Port is installed.

 

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...d.php?t=244114