Did you figure out your P115D issue?

 

Yes thanks. I had missed a clamp on the noisemaker, twice! Runs great now, no super-knock. It took the better part of a day but that included gathering the right tools to clean the port and tearing it down twice looking for my error. When I clean them again I don't think it would take more then an hour or two.

 

I'm thinking of doing this.
Any recommendations on what chemical to use?
I have a couple cans of Seafoam.

 

I used Seafoam as Tintman718 recommended. It worked well. I dribbled some in each cylinder (those this closed valves first) brushed it around a bit then let it soak while I had a I had lunch. After soaking the carbon was really gummy and scraped off easily. Then I brushed (with a set of brass and SS tubing brushs from Harbor Freight) and more seafoam. After each brushing I blew it out with compressed air until everything I could see was clean and dry. Pretty much the way Tintman718 recommended.

 

There is an info rapid from Citroën who designed the engine with BMW on how to clean using their liquid

http://www.mediafire.com/?5vd9f7yw8phrmbd

 

Check engine light came on at 18,000 miles due to carbon buildup. Dealership cleaned it and I've had a remarkable improvement in mpg. Highway results for my 2009 auto S went up to 41.6mpg. That's the best it's ever achieved (previously around 35mpg).

 

Very interesting Dave and appreciated. A few observations re the PDF:

1. interaction of oil installed at factory with certain fuels. That leaves a lot to interpretation (or to the imagination). Was this oil something different than oil recommended for use by the owner. "Certain fuels" don't you love that - now it's your fault because you used brand "X".

2.4.2 Drain the engine oil and replace the oil filter. No mention of replacing oil - of course we can assume the tech will replace oil. But, is the oil the same as what was installed at the factory or is it something available in the market??

Back to the cleaning instructions. Wouldn't it be interesting to know what the product is? After spraying in the first treatment, don't allow it to soak more that 30 min. Why? Would it solidify or is it merely to keep from billing for too much time?

Also note that this document is to replace one written just 8 days earlier. Wonder what was lacking in that one??

Isn't it obvious that they wouldn't hire me - I ask too many questions.

 

I have a few contacts, i'll ask them about the oil interaction etc, and the name of the cleaning fluid... Will post any news here

 

Have you considered a system, like Aqua-mist injection, to keep the engines valve and combustion chamber clean? There are Threads in relation to Aqua-Mist injection.

 

Yes, but this procedure is recommended before you install a meth injection system. You wouldn't want chunks of carbon falling into the combustion chamber, assuming you have significant build up.

 

Good point! Thanks.

 

This is what I vacuumed out of a '10 with 35k. This is what settled out of the solvent (look at the base of the bottle, not the liquid). It was actually the cleanest one I've seen. According to the owner, this car was 90% highway driven.

 

Great stuff... I'm at 44K on my 2007 S... is this what's causing "indigestion" that I'm experiencing? I had the coldstart timing assembly replaced underwarranty at about 25K. Recently, I've noted a few hesitations, and also 'belching' on occasion... 1-2 times a month. When it happens, the TOAD spew's a black cloud on tailgator. Granted, it's funny, and a kind of chitty bang-bang reaction, but I've never had cylinder valves cleaned. I was afraid the turbo was leaking oil as some threads have mentioned, but now... I think I've got some head cleaning in my future????

Please offer advice if I'm describing symptom of a dirty Valve set....?

Cheers

 

Get in there and clean it. Its easy and very low cost. You will also learn a few things about your car. Heres a procedure i put together.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-build-up.html

 

It's very possible that coked-up valves are contributing to your symptoms, but there's no way to be sure unless you perform a cleaning. Signs of excessive build-up would be as you described, which include sputtering and spewing black smoke (misfiring, leading to unburned fuel). Although, symptoms should get progressively worse as build-up continues. In your case, this would indicate that something else might be the issue.

Very nice write-up. Although, you should really elaborate on the the actual cleaning process. Perhaps emphasize that it's crucial to make sure the solvent isn't leaking into the combustion chamber, and if it does to make sure to blow it out before the motor is turned over.
*Also, I find carb cleaner to be VERY noxious especially since you will have to keep your head right above the ports while you clean them. I'm actually surprised you didn't have trouble breathing with that stuff. I really like seafoam, even do it has fumes of it's own.

 

where do we have Mini gurus in East Iowa? are u hidin' them?

 

I have just stumbled across the following company.
http://www.oxy-hydrogen.com/
They claim to make a carbon cleaning machine. Do these already exist or is this a "revolutionary" new treatment?

I have nothing to do with the company and know next to nothing about mechanics. I just thought this might be of benefit to Mini owners as an alternative to Seafoam.

If this system is already old news then apologies for wasting everyone's time!

Unless your combined wisdom tells me otherwise, I might try and give it a go. Whatcha think?

 

Jonny, That's pretty interesting. Not being familiar with the company or their product, I'll be interested to see what testing by independent labs reveals. This the type of thing that should be installed in fleet vehicles to get the coverage they need.

How it would work in a MINI or any other computerized car is a question. Of course there is the issue of cost too.

Perhaps we will hear from a member who has some knowledge of this unit.

 

Well I just did mine at 52,000 miles. Here are my findings.

 

Nice write-up

I have 2 very different engines. An '09 Cooper automatic that is driven on short shopping trips 3 times a week (12K miles on it now) and a '011 MCS automatic that is driven aggressively once it is warmed up (3-1/2K miles on it in a year).

The N-18 has only 1 PCV hose on it's valve cover and that goes to the turbo. I am getting ready to put on an intercooler so I will report what is in there when I get there. Not sure a OCC would work in this one.

The N-12 engine has 2 PCV lines and might benefit from an OCC but since it is NOT driven aggressively I am not sure it would benefit either!

What say you guys???!!??

 

This thread talks to the perceived benefits of an OCC on the N18 design:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-2011-mcs.html

Once you weed through some of the misinformation, you'll see that there is some evidence of marginal benefit during those times when the engine is operated under boost conditions (which is the only time that blow-by gases pass through the can on the "standard" N18 setup).

 

Doesn't the N12 naturally aspirated engine have manifold fuel injection? If it does, then fuel is doing the washing for you.

 

I believe the N-12 is Direct Injected, just not force fed.

 

Hmm interesting. The carbon build-up is such a nuisance though. I always ponder when my R56 bites the dust if I'll buck up and go to R53 land. I will miss the N14 torque though!!!

 

hows that gonna work? You'd have to find a nice low mileage example, ( it's going to be pretty hard to find as time goes on),to replace your younger car. Better off waiting for the next new thing