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starter removal advice

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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 01:26 PM
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graefeln
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starter removal advice

In the middle of replacing my starter, dropped the headers, removed the heat shield, blah blah blah... anyways, I can't seem to figure out a good way to removal the lower bolt that holds the starter to the transmission andi was really hoping someone here would have advice on how to better reach it. There isn't much room to work with and I guess I am looking for advice on a better approach. A different tool (other than a simple socket wrench/breaker bar), a better angle of coming at it (top, bottom...), anything really would be appreciated.

Thank you all in advance.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 01:45 PM
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It looks like a dickens of a job with the subframe in place. Did you remove the EPS cooling fan?
 
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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 02:12 PM
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Yup... it gives a little more room, but not really enough to even turn the breaker bar enough to get it started... aside from this last bolt, it really hasn't been to hard of a job, though I admit, I cheated a bit - couldn't get the rusted bolts off the exhaust flange, so I just cut the exhaust (cheaper to get it welded than to get those bolts out)...
 
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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 02:42 PM
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I haven't done mine. I'm actually going to do it on the bench, since I pulled my drivetrain for a trans swap. But I did note how challenging the job appears. Without having done it, or having my new Bentley book in hand (just ordered) I'd say your best bet might be going in through the driver side wheel well (might need to pull liner, but that's a 10 minute job) with a REALLY long 3/8" drive extension, or all your extensions connected. Harbor Freight is your friend for specialty tools you will only use for one job.

I currently have a bit of an easier time accessing my starter:
 
Attached Thumbnails starter removal advice-img_0144.jpg  

Last edited by Blackbomber; Jan 5, 2011 at 03:17 PM.
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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 12:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Blackbomber
I haven't done mine. I'm actually going to do it on the bench, since I pulled my drivetrain for a trans swap. But I did note how challenging the job appears. Without having done it, or having my new Bentley book in hand (just ordered) I'd say your best bet might be going in through the driver side wheel well (might need to pull liner, but that's a 10 minute job) with a REALLY long 3/8" drive extension, or all your extensions connected. Harbor Freight is your friend for specialty tools you will only use for one job.

I currently have a bit of an easier time accessing my starter:
That is the ticket. If I remember even with the subframe down I still had 24in of 1/2in driver extension and an impact wrench to get that sucker off.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 04:09 AM
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Some Guy, thanks for further clarification. I underestimated the torque required to remove the starter. I probably should not speak not having done it. I've not had my car even a week yet.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2011 | 02:21 AM
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Your advice was good. I dont exactly remember but aside from the fact that the starter itself sees quite a bit of force under cranking I think those bolts also help hold the transmission on, which would be more reason as to why they are ridiculous.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2011 | 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by graefeln
couldn't get the rusted bolts off the exhaust flange, so I just cut the exhaust (cheaper to get it welded than to get those bolts out)...
Yup - this happened to me too - completely rusted at the flange. My solution was to remove the entire exhaust in tact - muffler and all!

Ultimately it was the bolts holding the starter on that made my day unsuccessful for the reasons you mentioned...just not enough room to get those bolts started. I may give it another try and buy a ratcheting breaker bar or put a long metal pipe on my normal 3/8" ratchet...

...or bring it to the shop. Anyone know what ballpark labor cost should be for replacing the starter?
 
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