Has anyone has issues with the windows not dropping the 1/4 of an inch when you open the door? It catches on the roof trim when you try to close the door. I keep thinking I'm doing something to cause the problem. I have not taken my car to the dealer yet, mainly because I know I will not be able to get the car to replicate the problem for the mechanic. My first factory service is only 1,500 miles away, I will bring it up then.

 

I would wait til your service and presnt them with your list of things to fix, etc. at one time, i.e. software upgrades on page 41 of the manual, etc......

 

I have noticed this happening also. Mostly it occurs when I roll up the windows before shutting the car off with the doors closed. but.. if I open the door, then roll up the window, it will then come back down the 1/4 inch. It seems that with the door open, the window is not allowed to go all the way up, so it comes back down the 1/4 inch. Ive been wondering if holding the window toggle switch in the up postion for too long a time after the window is already up might be causing the problem, but I havent really tested that theory.

 

I had the problem in my Cooper. The A pillar(plastic molding between windscreen and drivers window) lifted because of this and then one day doing about 90mph the pillar blew off. I wondered if it was because of cell phone use(per Mini can screw up electronics) without an external antenna. I have an S now with no problems but I never used that cell phone in the S w/o an external antenna. I have a different cell phone now and so far no problems(and I have used it w/o an external antenna) .

Florida Mini Owners

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2Minis

 

>>I had the problem in my Cooper. The A pillar(plastic molding between windscreen and drivers window) lifted because of this and then one day doing about 90mph the pillar blew off.



Yeah, right. Sure it did.

 

>>Yeah, right. Sure it did.

 

I got it! I got it! Next time your window does this take notice of how far the window overlaps the frame. My bet is that it is less than 1/4". I know when mine did it last it overlapped by so little that I just hit the window with my palm and it popped under the molding. Here's my theorey as to why this happens. The window lift inside the door has a switch that determines that the window is completely up and will need to be lowered to get under the molding. If the window is up to within 1/4" of full up and the switch is not made the CPU does not know to lower the window and you have interference with the molding. Thats why we all experience it after we roll up the window. Apparently, we are not completely rolling the windows all the way up to the stop. Now, if this is correct there are two solutions. The first and most intrusive method is to have you MINI dealer adjust the window lift end of travel switch to prevent the CPU from getting an incorrect signal. This requires them to remove the inner door panel and could result in unwanted rattles after the service. The second is to have your MINI dealer program your windows for auto-up function. This is a good solution because the sensor that tells the lift motor to stop running is the same sensor that tells the CPU that the window is up. You simply can not have this problem when the window is raised automatically. Now, there is still the issue as to whether the passenger side widow can be programmed for auto-up.

I could be wrong, because I'm no expert, but I'd be willing to bet the problem is caused by something very similar to this.

 

I’m with MINI Division. I’m so sorry to read about your problem with your windows. If you want our help with this, please give us a call at (866) ASK MINI.

MINI Division Customer Relations