Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.

Oil on spark plug

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Old Sep 27, 2010 | 01:12 PM
  #1  
Cali44redrocket's Avatar
Cali44redrocket
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Oil on spark plug

So I went to go to work today and as I started my car I noticed it just wasn't running right. So I just took it around the block....had no power at all, and a CEL came on. I read the codes as P0300 and P0304. Well reset the codes, and started the car, same results. Then decided to take the plugs out and check them. They are fouled, which after 40,000 it's time to change them anyways. However....on the #1 plug it was soaked in oil. I'm kind of nervous and freaking out a bit as to what would have caused this problem!
I have lots of aftermarket work done on my car....only internal change is a Crower Cam Shaft. Was no problems at all recently.....changed oil two weekends ago, and all was well!
Help!!!!
 
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Old Sep 27, 2010 | 01:45 PM
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Herleman
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From: Port Orange, Florida
On my Lotus it meant that a valve had hit the piston top and cracked it. Are you comfortable that the cam did not provide too much lift to the valve(s)? I have no idea how much clearance there is in ther on the Gen I motor. Anybody?????
 
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Old Sep 27, 2010 | 01:56 PM
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From: Darien, CT
You might have to do a compression test to see if your fears are justified. Then proceed according to the results.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2010 | 01:57 PM
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Cali44redrocket
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Well from what I've seen it seems like either a cracked valve like you said....or a bad valve guide. Anybody had any times dealing with this? How can you tell if that's really it? I don't see any metal shards in the oil either.

Anyways...>I attached pics of the plugs too
 
Attached Thumbnails Oil on spark plug-2010-09-27-13.42.28.jpg   Oil on spark plug-2010-09-27-13.42.15.jpg  
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Old Sep 27, 2010 | 06:01 PM
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Cali44redrocket
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Well did compression test and everything was good....all 4 cylinders were spot on....nothing off there.
I also tightened down and retorqued down the valve train, cleared all the CEL cods, changed the plugs, ran seafoam through engine, put everything back together and it runs well now. Guess we'll see if things stay running well.
Seems odd to me that out of no place it started giving big problems though....there were no signs at all, then boom! Oh well.....thanks for your help everybody.

But still wondering if theres a way to check the valve guides and make sure that they are in good shape. Is it better, cheaper to upgrade the whole cylinder head to an aftermarket or just upgrade the valve bodies and valves in the stock "S" head? Thanks!
 
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