Well, as the name hints, not good. I did a search of possible causes and I saw anywhere from catelyt converter (spelling) issues to the turbo being fried. Granted this came on when it had been parked in rain and 50 degree weather for 4 hours. It seemed a little sluggish and almost hesitant on a few hills on the way back to my apartment. Oh well, heading to the dealer when it opens tomorrow Morning. Sheez, a 2010...

 

What is the engine failure light? Do you mean the check engine light?

 

Engine Failure = no lights...nothing. Check engine light at 2,900 miles is covered by warranty.

 

the dealer here in Des Moines is shipping it to Omaha for the day. Lauren over at service there says it should be ok and back on the road in a day or so. We'll see.

 

I was wondering/thinking the same thing myself. If the check engine light (CEL) comes on, you can take it to most any auto parts store and have them read the code for free. There are thousands of conditions that will set a CEL, it could be just about anything. One of the more common causes is a loose gas cap.

 

I don't think it was the gas cap, because on the way over, I topped it off and made sure that sucker was tight.

 

Thanks for the laugh!!!
Engine failure light!!
I guess if the oil light comes on and you keep driving...it is the same!!

 

Getting Spike back tomorrow. Add another to the list of carbon build up. Service says that premium gas in Iowa is not good enough for Cooper engines. they said to just add a can of fuel injector cleaner every couple of tanks while in Iowa. crazy. at least it wasn't something worse.

 

Sorry to break the news to ya....on a direct injection motor...adding detergent to the gas does nothing to remove carbon....it must be removed by adding cleaner to the intake side....or by removing the intake for physical cleaning.
Unlike a standard motor, on a direct injection motor, the fuel is not sprayed intro the intake, but into the cylinder itself....so any oils, etc that is in the PVC system, can condense, and for carbon on the back of the valves. This is a common problem with ALL MAKES of direct injected motors. It is not hard to avoid, just read the "SEA-FOAM" threads.
Good to hear the car is running good again...
But it sounds like if the dealer did not understand the car enough to fix it without shipping it off (it is a well publicized issue, both within MINI, and the ENTIRE automotive industry)....and then gave you 100% incorrect advise for a DI motor....I would be careful about giving them my $$$.