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Stock Problems/IssuesDiscussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.
difficult to over t' with a standard wrench .. and you are never taking it back off!!!!!!
That rational is generally safe with a steel oil pan, but with the MINI's softer aluminum oil sump, I give more credence to proper torque specs, but you're right, one is unlikely to overtorque using a standard short wrench.
One last thought here, and this is a common sense point, but when final torquing the Fumoto, make sure the "handle" portion of the valve is pointing upward, as it could easily be sheared off by striking an object on the roadway (quickly dumping all your oil) if protruding below the bottom of the oil pan.
If the drain plug was overtorqued while the oil pan was really hot, and the plug itself was able to cool down, then there is a good bite on it. This may be contributing to why it's so hard to remove.
+1 on breaker bar. If you don't have one, see if you can find a 2-3' long pipe to slide over the end of the ratchet handle. The goal is additional leverage. At this point, heating up the pan would probably help, too. Yes, it is amazing the drain plug would be put back with an impact wrench. Heck, on most designs, the oil stops draining the instant the plug is put into place before any tightening occurs.
If you round off the corners, you can either try the next socket size up (metric or standard), or you can take a hammer and tap the socket onto the bolt. If you do the latter, consider the possibility the socket will be tossed.
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For the curious, the following sizes are fairly cross-compatible (with only a small amount of slack involved):
8 mm - 5/16 in (fairly spot-on match)
11 mm - 7/16 in (7/16 is larger)
13 mm - 1/2 in (13mm is larger)
14 mm - 9/16 in (fairly spot-on match)
16 mm - 5/8 in (fairly spot-on match)
19 mm - 3/4 in (fairly spot-on match)
The size that always gets you is 10mm. 3/8 is too small, and 7/16 is too large. Rarely does anyone have a 13/32 wrench laying around.
Metric system! I remember when I was in 6th grade (1971) they were saying we would be converted over in ten years. Just another communist plot!
Metric system! I remember when I was in 6th grade (1971) they were saying we would be converted over in ten years. Just another communist plot!
The rest of the world and even the Brits have moved on with metric, but not this country. Mini is almost all communist. There is at least one imperial thread in the Mini. That is today's quiz for y'all.
If the drain plug was overtorqued while the oil pan was really hot, and the plug itself was able to cool down, then there is a good bite on it. This may be contributing to why it's so hard to remove.
On the surface this seems reasonable. However if you think the oil change process, unless you hire Speedy Gonzales at Jiffy Lube the pan would have been way cooled when the plug is replaced. Over-torque by grease monkeys is the leading cause.
I wonder if anyone ever get seriously burnt by hot oil at those speedy in-and-out oil change places.
One last thought here, and this is a common sense point, but when final torquing the Fumoto, make sure the "handle" portion of the valve is pointing upward, as it could easily be sheared off by striking an object on the roadway (quickly dumping all your oil) if protruding below the bottom of the oil pan.
I too were hung up for the need to use the LC-10 secure clip. That is until I bought the Fumoto and found out it is a ball valve . Also from inspection of the design of the spring-loaded lever, I feel no need for the LC-10, especially if the lever is orientated out of harm's way.
LC10 may not be needed, but it costs practically nothing for extra mind peace.
If you buy the valve direct one is included, but much more than on Amazon plus shipping. Amazon gives discount, but no LC10. Buy the LC10 alone is more. It is one of those sellers' game and I refuse to let them win. It is % delta that matters, not just a few bucks thinking.
I got mine new and cost less than people selling their used one here.
I just bought mine on Amazon with the clip for cheap...but mine is now a M16 due to the PO stripping the pan out and putting an oversided M14 self tapping drain plug in it
at Jiffy Lube the pan would have been way cooled when the plug is replaced. Over-torque by grease monkeys is the leading cause.
. Also from inspection of the design of the spring-loaded lever, I feel no need for the LC-10, especially if the lever is orientated out of harm's way.
It is % delta that matters, not just a few bucks thinking.
