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Hatchback problem

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Old Jun 12, 2010 | 01:44 PM
  #1  
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Hatchback problem

(Reposted from Classi mini section)

Hi everyone

I have a 2006 mini. A few days ago I noticed that the hatchback no longer closed properly, the problem being that it does not close flush. In other words, when I close it on the right hand side there is now a large gap (large enough to stick my fingers in and large enough that the trunk open indicator light is on) while on the right hand side the door is close to not closing. This problem started a few days ago as a really minor thing, the hatch was slightly off, something you would hardly notice, and over the course of the this week has now progressed to the problem I describe. If it progresses much further I will soon be unable to close the trunk.

Anyone have any experience with this?

Thanks!
 
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Old Jun 12, 2010 | 02:56 PM
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The rubber bumpers on each side of the hatch adjust in & out. That may help your problem, If not remove the plastic trip piece from the inside bottom of the hatch opening. That will expose 2 torx bolts that hold the latch in place. It may also need to be adjusted.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2010 | 03:11 PM
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sounds like his problem is more serious....

check the condition of the hinges at the top.....almost sounds like one is loose. I even recall some posts here of them breaking
 
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Old Jun 12, 2010 | 03:22 PM
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Good call Capt. I do remember a tech posting here about breaking hatch hinges. My car is an 06 & it uses the same hinges as the earlier cars. Late 06 on have a beefier hinge.

Lube those hinges folks!
 
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Old Jun 14, 2010 | 08:12 AM
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Kind of an add-on to this issue, I have noticed that sometimes my hatch gets water in it? Where does that come from? All weather stripping seems to be intact.
 
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Old Jun 14, 2010 | 08:25 AM
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Hockeyman, try the top brake light, the handle, and the bolts holding the wing on. I would check the tightness on the wing bolts(dont remove it), take off the top brake light and put dielectric grease on the seal and reattach, do the same with the handle. I believe the handle is the biggest culprit.
 
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Old Jun 14, 2010 | 08:54 AM
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Thank you mah Lord, I will check those immediately. Oddly enough, it's not a regular occurrence. Of course there's not much rain where I live so it must be from washing. Maybe when rinsing I am focusing the water in a particular spot prone to the problem. I would imagine there are rubber gaskets for each of the things you mentioned. I am curious on the handle......you mean from just below the MINI emblem....the (in my case) red trim piece?
 
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Old Jun 14, 2010 | 09:00 AM
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Hockeyman, Yes the whole handle comes off, there is a wiring harness(our handles are electrical, so no moving parts attached) hooked up to it though. You can disconnect it while you clean and lube it, but make sure it doesnt fall back into the hole, or you will have to remove the inside trim panel to get at it. I want to find some type of waterproof membrane to cut a gasket out of to go behind that piece, I am sure it is the major issue behind water leaking into the hatch. If water keeps getting in it will start effecting the latch, in my case the latch kept opening on its own. Which reminds me, load up the wiring harness plug with dielectric grease as well, that will prevent water from leaking into the plug and opening the latch on its own.
 

Last edited by lordgrinz; Jun 14, 2010 at 09:12 AM.
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Old Jun 14, 2010 | 10:27 AM
  #9  
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Much obliged, my lord. -A Fish Called Wanda

Headed to get some parts now. I am also going to look into a material for gasket. If I find something I will reply and let you know what I come up with.....

Thanks again.
 
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Old Jun 14, 2010 | 10:34 AM
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Another quick Q, do you pull the plug apart, apply the dielectric to the actual connections then reconnect? or is it topical? kinda cover the plug with it?
 
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Old Jun 14, 2010 | 11:22 AM
  #11  
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Hockeyman, Yes you just squeeze it into the plug when you pull it apart, it just helps displace the water so it doesn't get in so easy. The dielectric grease is good for a lot of things, use it on the rubber moldings for your doors to keep them from drying out and cracking, you can also use it on the posts on the ignition coil, etc.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2010 | 03:17 PM
  #12  
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Lordgrinz

Mr Lord,
I read your thread on the rear latch hatch fix. Were you ever able to locate a weather strip membrane to cover the rear latch hatch panel? I have the same problem as well, I removed the 4 torx screws of the rear latch panel, cleaned out the corrosion in the contacts and wrapped electrical tape around wiring and black connectors, I placed the panel back and tightened up the screws, although would like to place some sort of membrane like gasket before tightening it down, any thoughts on what kind of material to use? Thanks
 
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Old Jul 17, 2010 | 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Jcrtho
Mr Lord,
I read your thread on the rear latch hatch fix. Were you ever able to locate a weather strip membrane to cover the rear latch hatch panel? I have the same problem as well, I removed the 4 torx screws of the rear latch panel, cleaned out the corrosion in the contacts and wrapped electrical tape around wiring and black connectors, I placed the panel back and tightened up the screws, although would like to place some sort of membrane like gasket before tightening it down, any thoughts on what kind of material to use? Thanks
I brushed some liquid "form a gasket" (gasket maker) onto the foam after I cleaned it...then assembled it....worked great!!
 

Last edited by ZippyNH; Jul 17, 2010 at 05:26 PM.
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Old Jul 17, 2010 | 04:57 PM
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Zippynh

"liquid form" is that a sort if weather stripping? Where is the " foam" located? Is that the black rubber under the latch panel? Thanks
 
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Old Jul 17, 2010 | 05:24 PM
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In the auto parts store, you can buy sheets of rubber, and trim it to make a gasket, or buy stuff in a tube, and brush/squirt it on. When you reapply the hatch handle, it will tighten up the space between the handle, and the body, making it watertight. The orgional gasket is expanded foam...very light, and compressable. After cleaning the gasket, I found it pretty thin..to thin to be fully functional. Gasket maker is a bit different than RTV Silcone...that stuff is too sticky, and will glue the handle it in place. Gasket maker is more like a liquid rubber...and dries to form a gasket.
Just be sure to spray the switch with some contact cleaner, and if the rubber that covers the switch on the bottom of the handle is ripped/torn, it is a temporay fix...just buy a new handle. They come in chrome, and primed, ready for paint...youv could wrap a new one in the plastic carbonfiber sheets...looks pretty good, and saves you needed paint!
 
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Old Jul 17, 2010 | 05:32 PM
  #16  
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From: Southern NH
Originally Posted by Jcrtho
"liquid form" is that a sort if weather stripping? Where is the " foam" located? Is that the black rubber under the latch panel? Thanks
The back stuff under weather stripping is more likely a tacky rubber/glue product that functions as glue to keep the rubber stuck on the ridge.
It sounds like you are refering to the big rubber seal around the door...the post I was responding to was about the handle gasket that is attatched to the rear door...when it leaks, the door fails to open through normal means, and you must use the underseat pull cable on later gen1 cars to open it. The solution is to remove it, clean it, and reinstall/replace it.
 
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