molezooka, thanks for posting this thread. If it makes you feel better I went through exactly the same issues/solutions that you did. My steering was getting hard and _everyone_ told me it was the P/S pump. It seemed odd to me because I could he the motor still running. But all my research and calls to the dealer told me to replace the P/S pump. So I did. And, just like you, it did nothing to improve the problem, but did make me a little poorer.

After replacing the pump I came back to exhaustively search for another cause. When I typed in "Steering Problem Not Pump" your thread came up. I read it and said, "oh crap".

I went back to the garage, pulled the lower steering column, and the lower U-joint was rusted and half frozen. Some pentrating oil, light oil, and grease later it was free, but not flopping like it should be. For now, I've put it back in smeared with grease to keep water away for a little while. I'll have to track down a replacement and install it at some point (probably sooner than later). FYI -- I have a 2003 S with 92K miles.

(I bought a new ZF pump and installed it. I tell myself it wasn't a waste of money since it is the revised pump and much quieter. Yea, right.)

Oh yes, minitech - thanks for your excellent diagnosis and instructions.

Interestingly, I have also had a power window problem where the passenger window stops working and all you hear is a solenoid click in the door. After a little while it has always started working oke. I figured "don't fix it, if it ain't broke."

FYI -- My right muffler is pretty much rusted through and I think I'll have to do a cat-back replacement within the next six months.

Figured I'd mention it since all these cars seem to have the same problems in more-or-less the same order.

 

SAE if your steering column u-joint is like mine the extra lube is not going to last very long. I bought a used replacement from Way Motor Works. He was good to deal with and the price was right.

I read somewhere that after disconnecting your battery, you sometimes have to re-teach your windows their limits. If I remember correctly, you just hold the window switch in the up direction for 5 second, and that should fix the problem. Seems too easy but it worked for me. I haven't had a problem since.

And yes I have a busted hanger on my left muffler. Been meaning to get that fixed for a while.

Everything else on the Mini is working fine. Pretty good for 80000 miles.

 

Molezooka I hear what you're saying about the u-joint lube not lasting long. So far it is still working, but I'm waiting as long as I can (until I have to pull it again) to do the replacement (still hurting from buying the redundant steering pump). I did a bunch of searching and found a source for a new OEM one for $100. I'm thinking that it may be better to go with a brand new one with new u-joints - any thoughts?

After disconnecting the battery I did see the ABS warning light come on for the first few miles, but then it shut off - probably some sort of recalibration/boot error is my guess. A couple of days later a really funny thing happened while on the highway -- the traction control light came on and then when I hit the turn signal the alternator light came on too. It was weird. I checked things when I arrived at my destination, but there were no issues. It hasn't happened again. Perhaps another ghost in the machine.

The window eventually did stop working. The solution was to turn the car on, hold the window button down (window was stuck up) and whack the door above the big speaker with the side of my first a couple of times. I found the answer on a thread in the MINI2 forums (thank goodness for the Internet). My theory is that the commutator/bushings somehow hit a dead spot and whacking it moves them just enough to regain contact and start the motor again. Hey, it was a quick and free fix, so I'm not questioning it.

Something to consider before you fix the muffler hanger. To get a new hanger/strap costs between $50-100. I have a busted one and band-aided it with some metal pipe hanging tape. The muffer also has a small hole in it, so I decided to research replacement mufflers. They are all big bucks for the "S" (~$800+), but I found that OBX Racing Sports sells a stainless cat-back exhaust that requires no modifications on my 2003. You can get it for $200+75 shipping on eBay (best deal I could find). It has a lifetime warranty from OBX and the reviews I found of their stuff were all postive.

Oh yea, the other thing to check is the strut bushings (top of the front strut visible from the top over the wheel when the "bonnet" is open). I had the rubber on one of these go about a year ago (rubber cracked/broke).

And I need new tires (summer and snow). I am a one-person economic stimulus program!

 

To test if pump or steering column, jack up front wheels and steer them without turning on the car. If always notchy at the same place, its the column!

A couple days ago I took a fistful of lithium grease and slathered it onto the knuckle without taking it off the car. You might want to get someone with really slender arms to go from under or go through the air box. It's slowly working it's way in and a couple hundred miles later, the hard steering is almost gone.

 

Just found a schematic and it lists the part number as 32306763722.
http://mini.sewellparts.com/oem-cata...-R53-2004.html
I am having the same issues and Mini of Peabody MA helped me diagnose over the phone earlier. I verified here and it makes sense when thinking about the joints in the part.

States that teh part is $141. where did you find it for $100 new?

THANKS for the help everyone.

2003 "S" with 75K.

 

I'll match any price if you can provide a link to where you found it and it is the same part with part number listed and in new condition! I have that item in stock ready to ship!

 

Any chance for a discount code? I was just getting ready to order the part from you, Sewell.

 

I have a 5% off entire order code that will be announced tomorrow. Good now through 4/30/12. Use "april12" at the final checkout screen. It currently is active and can be used in conjuction with your NAM discount that is applied when you are logged into our site.

 

I dont see the NAM discount? When/how does that get applied?

 

When you registered for the site, your entered your information and filled in a section for your forum membership. When logged into the site, the prices you see are discounted automatically. All items should say "N.A. Motoring Price" next to the item amount.

 

I just ordered for $141.68, it looked discounted from 160 but I did not see NAM Price

 

No worries. Always make sure to log in before adding items to your cart so you do not miss out on the NAM price. I went ahead and credited back the difference to you.

 

Thank You. I just logged off and back on and saw the discounted price. Thanks.

 

I saw there was some activity on this thread, so I figured that I might as well come by an post a follow-up.

I had reported at the end of September 2010 that I had pulled the steering column out and freed up the frozen U-joint and then slathered it with bearing grease and worked it some more. The question was how long would that fix last.

The answer is that everything was fine for a little over a year. During the course of the winter I noticed that the steering wheel suddenly had a little play in it. I pulled the column again and discovered some play in the lower U-joint bearings.

Of course, I put the column back in the car and made a mental note that I needed to either fit new bearings, find a used shaft in good shape (from some sunny climate), or buy a new or reman one. Then I promptly forgot to do anything. So the car has some wobble in the wheel at low speed, but so far nothing hazardous or deadly has occurred.

I was leaning toward trying to find a similar car that was being junked and see about negotiating to get the various parts my car now needs. That would be a clock-spring for steering wheel (mine's ok, but I had to solder a loose connection), steering column, and some speakers to replace the ones in the doors (mine are H-K, but I'd put in whatever fit and worked).

The only caveat to this approach is that if you get a steering column with a wonky u-joint then you'll have two bad parts instead of one. Yes, you could fit new bearings, but by then I think you'd have spent as much as getting a new one.

I've toyed with the idea of fitting some sort of CV boot over the exposed u-joint if I do fix it. I'm not sure it's worth the trouble, because the slather of grease I put on in 2010 was almost fully intact when I pulled the column this past winter and it did have the benefit of any boot covering it.

BTW - If anybody out there has any speakers (small upper and large lower ones in the doors) feel free to give me a shout.

 

SAE, check http://www.crutchfield.com/S-oaytaCTqpUS/
, I've had great luck with them in the past.
Everythign is model specific. (Or at least check them for the size, buy the right sized speakers and solder them in).

 

Yes, Crutchfield is a good idea, I hadn't thought of them. A quick look at their website shows they have a large selection (wide price range) of 6.5" (same as OEM) and 5.25" (with free adapter) mid range speakers for the door.

No compatible tweeters showed up and if you look at their instruction guide for the MINI it says, "If you decide to install aftermarket tweeters, you may have to fabricate new mounting brackets. The tweeter opening is oddly shaped, and making a new bracket will require a little ingenuity."

Of course I have a "little ingenuity," that's how I got myself into trouble in the first place. What I need is a "lot of ingenuity."

 

Send me pics I'll see what I can do. I have many engineers and many rednecks for friends. It gets us into a lot of trouble.

 

Well, thank goodness I found this thread before I ordered the P/S pump.
The problem started two days ago and the first thing I checked was the fluid and my heart sank when I saw the reservoir was full. My MCS is a 2003 with 65K miles.
On an interresting note, I also have a broken exhaust hanger on the left muffler like described by others, so the list of common problems provided is appreciated as It gives me a guide to maintenance issues I'm likely to face in the future.
I created a login with Sewell and plan on giving them as much business as possible (on my budget, the NA Motoring discount really helps).

Thanks,

William

 

Thank you all for this great thread.

I have the exact same steering issue where it's stiff at some points and more normal at other points in the rotation. I haven't had the chance to physically check my lower steering column but since the description is dead on I'm hoping this is the case and not the pump/fan as it usually ends up being.

One question: Is it possible to access the lower column simply by removing the storage compartment/center console and then the lower column trim? Or do I need to get under the car?

Thanks!!!!

 

Hello friends! Mam Minika for over a year. I replaced the servo for new and after about a month I started to build from me is difficult to turn the steering wheel. Steering wheel issue such sounds:


Could this be the problem with joint? Or is faulty servo? The steering wheel is in some places very severe and in some places very difficult.

 

I'm in the process of swapping my transmission(03 Mini) from a 5 speed Midland to a 6 speed Getrag. Noticed today while putting it back together that the lower steering shaft u-joint is nearly frozen. Thank goodness for Sewell! I will be ordering a new shaft today.
Anybody think there's a correlation between power steering pump failures and this steering shaft freezing up?

 

Sorry to bump an old thread but I'm have this same issue with my lower steering column u-joint. I can't seem to locate anyone that has this part in stock.

 

We have it: its the newer fix part number.

32306763727 this is the newest version . See the notes on the adjustment for LHD ( left hand drive )

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ks-in-usa.html



Thanks

 

Hey! Thanks for this GREAT thread. I'm having the same issue.
issue. And it would have been ages and wasted money to fix it without this information sharing.

I'm going to grease up mine tomorrow, first wd40 then lithium grase.

How safe is to drive it waiting for the replacement to arrive? Is there a history of loss of steering from the joint completely failing?

 

I don't think that joint would be likely to fail to the extent the steering wheel wouldn't function. It's not turning at high speed like a wheel bearing where it could literally disintegrate. The worst thing I can imagine would be that it could become hard(er) to turn the steering wheel, but no more so than if the PSP failed.

I did buy a "gently used" shaft from a junked MINI to replace the original. It lasted until at least the end of last year when the car was rear ended and the insurance company decided it was time to "put it down." So sad, but I was very pleased with the amount the car was still worth after so many years.

I will reemphasize that the point on the shaft where the joint is located seemed like it was susceptible to the elements. After I put a working joint in, I did my best to smother it in grease.