So, first off, hi. Just picked up an '02 R53 two weeks ago. I've been frequenting the site trying to find everything I can about the thing so I can get everything I need to get taken care of done within the 3,000 mile 3 month warranty they gave me... Already fixed a ton of issues by myself (creaks, rattles, etc.)

Bought and test drove the car on cold days, never got to check the AC to see if it worked... Well, it didn't.

Also had the car overheat on me once while leaving it idle for a while...

Didn't connect the dots until now that my radiator fan might not work but it made itself apparent pretty spectacularly a few minutes ago.

Tried the AC again, to give it some time and make sure it in actuality didn't work before taking it back to the dealer (before being sure my radiator fan didn't work) and... BANG. A little smoke came out the hood. Immediately went to check on it and saw that the AC radiator fitting on the right side (looking at the car) popped and covered everything in green.

I was just wondering if anybody has been through this and if this is just due to overheating or if there's something else that could be the cause?

Is it okay to drive about 30 mins to the dealer like this?

I've got a host of other questions I'd like to ask but I want to keep the thread on topic.

 

Sounds to me like your radiator blew - if it did - do not drive it!

Have it towed - you need a new radiator. Also, if the fan's not coming on, that could be why your A/C didn't work - they're interconnected.

 

I meant AC condenser sorry.

Radiator seems fine.

 

If coolant is OK and your can pressurize the system with no leaks, and it doesn't overheat, then drive it to the dealer. From your other comments I would suspect the low speed setting on the fan is out causing an overheat especially when trying the A/C. If not, flat bed it.

Get them to determine if the low speed fan is out and I bet when it is, have them replace the radiator fan (entire assy). Look here on the site for something like "Low Speed fan we need a solution" for all the gory details.

It looks like they are going to have to replace the A/C condenser and probably the A/C unit. To do that, they will have to remove the front end to put it in "service mode". Radiator fan replacement at the same time makes sense, even if you have to buy the part and have them do it. ($100 or so from Rockauto)

 

I'm 95% sure that if the a/c condenser sprung a leak, the escaping freon gas would be colorless and well, a gas. Drops of green everywhere mean coolant, and the wrong kind at that. BMW coolant is a blue-purple color. Do not drive the car.

 

Yup. Have the dealer flat bed it back.

 

MINIs can use the green stuff. If your radiator is good (no leaks), it could be the thermostat housing leaking. Make sure your coolant bottle isn't cracked either. If your coolant system is working and not losing coolant, then you're safe to drive it to the dealer. Sorry you got pulled into problems.

 

Drove it back and it's in their hands. Got a beater loaner, I miss the Mini already... I've got pics of the engine I'll post tomorrow. Again I've got a few issues that I want to ask questions about but I dont want to clog up the board or this thread so I'm stuck...

While getting pictures I found what looks to be an oil leak on the left side of the cylinder head, and I also got a video I'd like an expert opinion on... Might be the beginnings of a dying supercharger. While the dealer has the car apart to replace the fan, is there a way to get the mechanic to see if there's anything wrong with the S/C?

I also am hearing a tapping at WOT with the windows down, reflecting off of the curb... Valve tap or supercharger noise?

Had a few problems come up within the first 2 weeks of ownership, and it's making me dread passing 3,000 miles. Hope this thing lasts a few years while keeping my bank account intact. I wanted to do some simple mods but I'm fearing that after hearing the noises by the SC...

I'm at 76,000 by the way.

 

Don't get discouraged by reading all these boards. Remember, only people with problems post here. I have over 90K on my 2002 MCS and it still pulls hard and makes me smile every time I drive it.

My baby leaks a little too, but barely noticeable between oil changes at 5K miles each time. Once I missed an oil change and I think it lost 1/2 a quart in about 10K miles.

You can check the oil in the SC, there are two plugs, one at the front, and one at the rear. If your dealer has the front end in service mode, the front is easy to check (just behind the dipstick), the rear one requires you to remove the water pump. Unfortunately, the rear one is the one that will show if there's an issue, and it's the hardest one to get to (typical!)

Stay in touch ...

 

The first drive after signing the papers, the O2 sensor went out so it just felt like a bad omen to me...

One more thing I will get a video of is a rattle in the exhaust at about 3k. It's a metal on metal rattle sound, even though I've checked the hangers and everything seems fine. Wondering if there's a leak or a crack or a busted baffle inside the muffler.

'Nother thing, I've got the cold clutch squeal and the warm clutch creak. They said they aren't going to do anything about it because the clutch is still fully functional... Any problems down the line from that? And when I finally get fed up and change out the clutch, what can I do to assure this doesn't come back? Aftermarket clutch/flywheel?

Again I'm just super worried about sorting everything out before I start to be the one footing the bill for these issues... Thanks for any help. When I'm not so paranoid anymore I'll start sharing the fun I'm having with the thing. Sorry if these last few posts are all over the place, typing out stuff on my phone makes it hard to edit/get my thoughts out all at one time.

 

I have "chewbaka" clutch when it's cold too. I will eventually replace it, but only with an OEM dual mass flywheel and oem clutch. I've read too much about vibrations with an aftermarket clutch and fw.

 

Leaky somethin' or other. Is that bolt supposed to be missing? And does this look serious at all?



Explosion pics.


It's crying.









They said they fixed the fuse causing the fan to shut off but I'm afraid maybe the PS fan is seized and causing that fuse to blow... We'll see I guess.

They're also making me pay for the reservoir tank that was obviously defective before I bought the car. I'm not happy about that.

They're gonna replace the condenser, hopefully that gets me back in the car. The beater they gave me is so terrible.

What's the best way to see if the power steering fan works?

 

get underneath, it's easy to see, it looks like a heavy duty computer fan Just be sure it moves. If it doesn't, two bolts and one connector. Clean it shoot it w/WD-40 and see if you can get it going.

Mine blew the same fuse this spring. I was able to clean it up, and it's been working now for a few months.

BTW, the expansion tank is a common failure.

 

Thats disconnected!!

 

Expansion tank is $30 and 10 minutes, If they charge you anything more than $50 tell them to shove off, and do it yourself.

 

Yep, that was the explosion. Bolt snapped and everything.

After all that's cleaned up I'll probably be down for an intake Jarid!

 

You told me this a little too late, they want $117.50! I'll see if I can get them to cancel that and do it myself.

 

If you can do the expansion tank yourself all you have to do is:

1. drain it with a turkey baster, or a shopvac with a small hose end.
2. unscrew the top mounting screw
3. remove the hoses (preferably replacing the clamps to the typical screw type)
4. (optional) Remove the coil pack (4 screws and 1 cable) Note: If you do this please disconnect the negative lead from your battery.
5. Tip the tank forward and remove it (If you didn't do step 4 it will take some coaxing)
6. Repeat in reverse order.

 

"I also am hearing a tapping at WOT with the windows down, reflecting off of the curb... Valve tap or supercharger noise?"
That "tapping" noise could be a deteriorating crank pulley. (There are many threads on this; do a search.) Some have described the sound as clattering under hard acceleration above 3K RPM, more noticeable when reflected off a wall on the right with the passenger window down. The crank pulley has a built-in "harmonic balancer," which is a hard rubber donut that tends to disintegrate over time, resulting in pulley wobble. BMW/Mini addressed this around 2005 in a TSB and with a redesigned crank pulley. Many owners, myself included, have tried in vain to get "deaf" dealers to acknowledge the defect, so we continued to drive with the clatter for years and many thousands of miles until belt replacement time. At 60K I had my belt and crank pulley replaced, along with the belt tensioner (added a DT safety stop) and a rew, 15% supercharger reduction pulley. The result: no more clatter, and more robust acceleration. I highly recommend these mods. Good luck!

 

omni that post made my day, thanks.

Waiting 'til the warranty ends, then picking up an intake, Milltek exhaust, a pulley, and a tune. Any good Philly area tuner recommendations?

 

Which crank pulley did you get. OEM size or reduced? I'm gonna need this too.

 

Gear Head: I chose the "improved" OEM crank pulley (same dia. as original) because I didn't want to overdrive the alternator.

Mister E: I don't know of any Philly area shops. If you're willing to spend a day and venture a little to the south, I highly recommend Behe Performance in Glenwood, MD (about 10 mi. west of I695 - the Baltimore beltway - and just south of I70). See: http://www.luckydoggarage.com/
They've done a lot of tuning on Minis, and can do a proprietary reflash of the ECU that's designed to complement a 15% reduction S/C pulley. They did mine, and I'm very pleased with the results. Search these forums for other positive references to that shop.

 

Helix, none better!

 

I second Helix. You'll be hard pressed to find a better Mini shop in the NE.

LuckyDog is good if you're in Maryland. I have had some personal issues with the management, though John Behe is extremely knowledgeable and competant.

 

Yeah, not true on the color.... Mine came from the factory with green fluid. Dye color does not indicate which group they are in.