I cannot get my OEM driving lights to work properly. If anyone has ever done this, they will understand the attachment. These are SUCH an easy install, with only 3 connections under the dash as this is not my first set I installed. EVERY thing works except 1 wire.

To Start, I have Xenons
Below is where i am running into a problem.
Connect Branch A1, GE/BL (yellow blue wire) cable to Pin 4 of the x14260, DID THIS.
This is the wire that is supposed to get juice when the High Beams are turned on...it DOESN'T, and I checked it at the source and nothing.

The Juice from this wire Triggers the Control Relay to Turn on the Driving Lamps when the High Beams are Activated and the Driving light switch is in the ON position.

However, I can jump this off the power on the Control Module. If I do this, I can run the driving lights in all 3 modes, Parking Lights, Running Lights and high beams ONLY if the Driving light switch is ON. Although this is kind of cool, it is NOT the way these lights are intended to run. They should ONLY work in High Beam Mode. I think there are some legal issues as well in some states.

Now, with that said, here is what I need.

Do I have a bad x14260 that will not output the high beam signal to this PIN?
Did they change a 2010 model?
Are the instructions wrong and it is not PIN 4 is should tap into

Sorry for any confusion

http://webpages.charter.net/jimchris...connection.pdf

 

Sorry I can't offer advice. I ran across your post as I was searching for "driving lights" posts. Are they just for added light on the road at night? I see them mentioned as add ons to lots of MINIs, but do they offer a real advantage? I hope you get yours working soon.

 

I installed my driving lights a couple of months ago and I have Xenon lights. Mine work as they are supposed to. Other than a bad module the only thing I can think of is that connector is not fully snapped in.

 

Do they just give you more light on the road or are they for on the track at night or what?

 

Apparently the electrical scheme for ´10 cars are different. My installer is looking for the same PIN and cannot find it. When they do, I let you know or, if anyone knows, the help would be appreciated.

 

Ouch .... won't the dealer print out the install instructions for you? That's my understanding...when you buy the kit they are supposed to provide a copy of the instr' which curiously is not in the box but only on computer.

 

They gave me the instructions that have worked for almost everyone. But the PIN 4 that is to provide the "hot" from the high beams does not receive anything and thus, no activation on the lights...

 

DL's are another set of high beams. So much so that a proper install prevents them from being activated UNLESS the standard high beams are on. In some states DL are completely illegal and must be covered unless 'off-road' .. or so I'm told.

I can count the number of times the number of times I've used my high beams for more than a few minutes at a time over the past 10 years, on one hand. So for me, DL's are more bling than functional. As bling they do enhance the rally look for a MINI and I have installed two sets for MINI owners who didn't even want the wires connected! They just wanted 'the look'. For those who DO drive in places where they use the high beam a lot .... well, I guess the more light the better.

 

My dealer emailed me the instructions, but PIN 4 does NOT throw juice with the high beams, and neither do ANY of the pins in this x14260 module. I'm not sure of the actual fix at this point.

The wiring I believe HAS changed for 2010 models.

This is what I did.

At the Control Module (square relay block) that came with the lights.
I put the RED wire and YELLOW/BLUE wire together.
At about 3 inches from the module, I CUT them at the same length.
Now you have 4 ends, 2 red and 2 yellow/blue
I Stripped all the wires back about 1/4 inch or so
Twisted 1 Red and 1 Yellow/blue together
Twisted the other Red and Yellow/blue together
Used a YELLOW butt connector and hooked them together.
Used Electrical tape to seal everything up.

Here is how the lights work now...

When Car is OFF, they will not turn on

When Car is ON, they WILL come on when you depress the Switch
They will work in EVERY headlight mode, OFF, Parking lights, Running Lights or High Beams. If the car is ON, they can be turned on.



I know this is NOT how they were intended to work, but it is a REALLY easy quick fix to get them working. It is nice to know that they can work all the time. I use them to FLASH oncoming MINIS HELLO!!

NOTE: these are not intended to run with your parking lights or running lights. they are to be run in conjunction with the high beams for more light at night. They are very bright and can blind other oncoming drivers, just be careful and considerate of other vehicles on the road. Sorry to sound like Officer Jim!!

 

FIGURED IT OUT...

Just got this response from my MINI Dealer

"Hi Jim
You are right. I should have remembered this because our techs also ran into this problem and had to submit a case to mini to get it solved. The correct pin is 41 of x14260"

I am out of town right now and cannot verify that this is correct. I will be able to check it on Friday when I return.

If anyone is to try this, TAKE CAUTION and test PIN 41 FIRST with a meter and make sure that this wire gets juice when the High Beams are turned on and no juice when they are OFF.

 

I just got out of the place from the guy that was installing it for me and, although he could make it, he did not count the exact pin for me to tell everybody here (SHAME).

In this way, we now see it is possible (mine is OK) and know the correct pin.

Thanks!

 

CONFIRMED

I just tapped into PIN 41 of the x14260 and this IS the High Beam Turn ON for a 2010 MINI. The YELLOW/BLUE wire must be connected to PIN 41

If you are installing driving lights, PIN 4 will NOT work on a 2010 car.

 

For just under $800, I avoided all of this...

I wish I had some skills and the time, but unfortunately, I'm the schmo that keeps MINI techs employed. And then they do this to your existing grille because they can't figure out how to remove a badge holder...



That hole on the right is where my badge used to be. I'm gonna have a tough time selling this in the Marketplace!

 

Interesting. I have a 2010 CS and the 41 position is in use. My car is Canadian though. I used Position 4. /Will let you know if this worked!

 

4 didn't work - there is a yllow and red wire in in 41 did you tap into another wire or was the hole clear?

 

Ok you just tap in using the 5 wire connector you get with the kit.

All works perfectly. I have updated instructions if anyone needs them. Just PM me.

 

stealership wants to charge me $470 for the install, I think that is a bit steep, even at 100$/hour which I figure is what they are charging, I cannot imagine this would take more than 2 hours to do...

 

My Dealership say that BMW allow less than 2 hours but it takes 5.

Took me 6 hours but I took my time and had to figure out the pin problem....