Cracked Valve cover
2nd Gear
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 100
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From: Beverly Hills
This was done from the GT28RS Turbos. I think i will have to get the heated coating on the turbo and headers to prevent it. Also got the Thermo covers for it for now.
Neutral
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Cracked valve cover
Hi, anybody have any leads as to where I can get a used valve cover for an R53, in good, non-leaking condition?
I boneheaded and cracked my cover replacing the coil pack. I have done much more complicated things, and I looked at it and said to myself, "how hard can it be?" So, I neglected to do the basic stuff like reading the instructions... :-(
To those who have used JB Weld to mend the crack, how is that working out long term? Would you consider that a permanent fix?
Thanks in advance.
Alex
I boneheaded and cracked my cover replacing the coil pack. I have done much more complicated things, and I looked at it and said to myself, "how hard can it be?" So, I neglected to do the basic stuff like reading the instructions... :-(
To those who have used JB Weld to mend the crack, how is that working out long term? Would you consider that a permanent fix?
Thanks in advance.
Alex
Neutral
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Crofton, MD
It looks like what you ordered is everything you need to do the job, and then some. I did not use the blue loctite on my bolts, the coil bolts have rubber rings that go both top and bottom on the bolts, be sure and reuse them!!!!. they will help keep the bolts in place. Also, the valve cover gasket does not call for any sealent to be applied, I have checked for leakes after putting mine back on and have found none. As for the 9-ft.lbs. of torgue, when you remove the cover bolts, check to see how easy it is to remove them, and try and only use the same pressure to put them back on. 9-lbs is not that much.
Like everyone else, I did the same thing with my MSD coil pack. Luckily it was only about an 1" to 1 1/4" long hairline crack, but still enough pressure to spray oil all over the place. Short term fix, I used similar product too (Plastic Welder) and it seems to be working well. However, I'm still waiting for the excess oil (hopefully not new) to burn off. You mentioned the rubber rings on both TOP and Bottom of the msd coil pack, but the instructions for mine only reference the bottom ones. Are you saying that you re-installed the top rubber rings as well? If so, that might be the reason why mine cracked, because even though it seemed like the bolt was all the way in, it still felt really loose. So, wondering if it really was because I did NOT use the top rubber rings. Thoughts?
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1st Gear
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 28
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Skippy, I just went out to the garage to check and "Yes" I did put rubber rings on both the top and bottom of the coil. On the top their is the rubber ring, a steel washer and the bolt head. With "slight" torque on the bolts, the back pressure from the rubber rings keeps the bolt from backing out. I bought the extra rubber rings at Ace Hardware and they worked great. Geo.
Neutral
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
I made the same exact mistake. Torqued the bolts too tight and "POP". no oil leak. Then i had a header installed and the mechanic did the same thing with a different MSD bolt and "POP". now there is a minor oil leak. priced a new valve cover ($350). I have a horizontal hair line crack about 2" long, midway up the back of the valve cover. Since the cover is its plastic is there any way to seal the crack?
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