There are a bunch of them here in the Phoenix area.. most are primarily BMW shops, or are general European specialists.

Even $1600 is outrageous.

 

My dealer just quoted $2500 (parts and labor) to replace the clutch of my R56 MCS, or $3900 if the flywheel has to be replaced also. I'm not going to pay them to drop the tranny to inspect the clutch, so I don't get stuck in the "sunk cost" trap.

"Well, you've incurred most of the labor cost to replace it anyway ..."

They told me upfront that they clutch wear isn't covered under warranty. If they don't step up to cover it, they're not getting a dime from me.

 

I complained to the service manager. Now they say they're going to cover it. Sweet.

 

OMIGAWD.

So, with (essentially) all the labor already covered, that means a flywheel must cost $1400. Riiiiiiiiight. Is it gold plated?

Amazing - they rip you off on the initial amount, and figure that since you bought that fleecing, that they may as well up the ante on the additional work.

Unbelievable. These guys should be in prison.

 

Flywheel is $1100, plus taxe$, maybe a little more labor, and slight rounding up (by me) to the nearest $100. Dual mass flywheels aren't cheap, and most aren't amenable to resurfacing.

I was starting to look at alternatives, and noticed that OS Giken has a clutch/flywheel for the R56. I've got one of their clutches in an E36 bimmer, and really like the part -- simple yet stout. It's $1900 for the R56 (including a metal throw-out bearing). Versus maybe $1500 from the dealer for the stock parts. If I was buying, the choice would be pretty simple. Glad I won't be writing a check for this one.

 

last I inquired, full clutch and dual mass flywheel replacement at my dealer was roughly $3,000. dual mass flywheels cant be trued or resurfaced so it's prudent to replace both at the same time. this wouldnt be so bad if the oem clutches werent so spotty, reliability-wise.

OP glad you're getting it replaced. so many dealers are trying to dodge this now, it's disheartening

 

"It never was completely normal from the time that I purchased it. I in my ignorance assumed that the little slipping under hard acceleration was a function of the traction control more than anything else."

Well now, there's the answer right there, and now you know why the previous ownder traded it in too. From my perspective, the dealership that sold the car should have caught this, and should pay for the clutch - period.

BTW, a slipping clutch is never "right", OK?

You were complicit because you kept driving it - to the point that it would go almost to red line on the highway - c'mon now - you know that's not right.

What you should have done was take it right back to where you bought it the first time it slipped and made them fix it.

I think paying $600 is probably a good lesson for you.

Good luck, and I hope you get years of fun out of your MINI from here on out!

 

The original clutch on my '09 was shot after 4,700 miles and replaced at no cost. The second one went after another 9,000 miles. Fortunately, it was again was replaced at no cost "this time". This is my third Mini and the first time I've had even one clutch burn out. I know how to drive. Why is this happening? I don't want to have to spend $2,600 after another 5-10k miles.
I'm thinking I ought to stop by and show them that I know how to use the clutch properly just to protect myself for the future.

 

Lateral G,
thanks for the good photos. They show plenty of signs of slippage. Notice how a few of the rivet heads are milled down and there are heat marks and scoring on the flywheel. These characteristics indicate someone was using this clutch well after it required replacement. Like you said, now you know. Very glad to hear your are receiving a lot of assitance from the dealer's shop. That is quite a happy ending.