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  #376  
Old 03-15-2010, 10:39 AM
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My tensioner was just replaced under SIM#11-02-07. Chain checked out fine. Tech had the car for a week while I was out of town and he said every AM it started fine, no noises. when I picked it up this AM it had not been started since sat, and it was much quieter than before, minus the faint ticktick of the DI. Let's hope this holds.

I was also told that if it reappears the full monty will be done, but my SA was confident that all will OK.
 
  #377  
Old 03-15-2010, 04:48 PM
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Just found out that BMW has issued yet another SIM for the tensioner debacle just 2 weeks ago. Had mine done a month ago and it's already making noises after 3K. BTW, the repair kit (SIM 110207) was listed on the dealers work sheet as "MISC BODY EQUIPMENT"!!!! Unbelievable.
 
  #378  
Old 03-16-2010, 09:46 AM
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Ohh man! So that means the last round of fixes didnt work and they have yet one more fix! Does anyone know what the newest kit contains for replacement parts?
 
  #379  
Old 03-16-2010, 10:34 AM
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Model: MINI Cooper S Camden
Build Date: 2010
Miles: 1200+
Duration: 30 - 60 seconds
Frequency: Everyday in the morning until this week
RPM range: 1000 - 2500
Ambient Temp: 50 - 55
Oil: OEM

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Was a regular occurance until this week when the morning temperature went up (now 70+). I called the dealer the first time it happened and was told it's "normal". Decided to wait and see. I am going to insist they fix the issue when I take the car in.
 
  #380  
Old 03-16-2010, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by skippydog
Ohh man! So that means the last round of fixes didnt work and they have yet one more fix! Does anyone know what the newest kit contains for replacement parts?
I can't confirm, but was told it contains some kinda longer bolt. Perhaps to put more tension on the chain? BTW, is this one reason why BMW is switching to German made R56 engines?
 
  #381  
Old 03-18-2010, 07:55 AM
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Model: r56 S manual
Build Date: 2008
Miles: 28k
Duration: 5-15 min
Frequency: cold days
RPM range: 1k to 2k
Ambient Temp: <50
Oil: oem

Just sent mine in to the dealership yesterday after two entire winters of this nonsense rattle. Had a video and everything but they said they couldnt do anything unless i left it over night and they heard it the next morning. Its freakin spring, of course its not going to rattle. As much as I wanted to just leave, figured I wasnt going anywhere so I let them take it for a night.
Got a call this morning and lil baxter rattled! Never been so excited to hear it. The car hasnt rattled since last month!
Question is, what exactly is involved with replacing the chain tensioner. Obviously the front bumper, fmic needs to go off. Anything else major? Im just worried because Im not to sure how competent the mechanics are and I want to look in the right places to see if they messed up.
 
  #382  
Old 03-26-2010, 12:47 PM
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Model: R55 S manual
Build Date: April 2008
Miles: 38k
Duration: 5-10 seconds normally never more than 15
Frequency: cold days
RPM range: 1k to 2k
Ambient Temp: <30
Oil: oem

Well that was until last Friday. Last Friday I had the car throw CEL's for misfire on all cylinders and the car ran very rough. Had car picked up by roadside assistance and the dealer delivered it back to me today.

Dealer replaced three valves valve seats and basically did a full valve job on the car. That is what i was told by the service department when they called to schedule the delivery back to me this morning.

Well the flatbed driver gets it off the truck and I go and start the car. It sounds horrible. Worse than I ever heard it before, and this time it does not stop. After 1-1/2 minutes it has reduced in volume but has not gone away. So I get in the car and drive it after a full warm up of about 5 minutes and over a mile drive it is no longer making the sound.

I was smart about this and recorded the sound so that I could e-mail it to the dealer. After the listened to it they are taking it back and going to fix it.

Why they did not do the tensioner when they had the thing apart I do not know but they surely will be doing it now.

It's to bad I have no place to put the sound file where you all can listen to it. It really sounded bad. I'll let you all know what the result is.
 
  #383  
Old 03-30-2010, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by pillar
Question is, what exactly is involved with replacing the chain tensioner. Obviously the front bumper, fmic needs to go off. Anything else major? Im just worried because Im not to sure how competent the mechanics are and I want to look in the right places to see if they messed up.
Model: R56 S manual
Build Date: 12/2007
Miles: 33k
Duration: 1-2min
Frequency: intermittent when it moves less than 50ft and then sits overnight
RPM range: 1k to 2k
Ambient Temp: <50
Oil: Oem/Mobil 1

Mine's in for this today. Hopefully they won't balk at working with the Alta FMIC I installed...I didn't realize they had to go in through the front bumper to get to these components.
 
  #384  
Old 03-30-2010, 10:31 AM
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To do the SIM-11-02-07 tensioner replacement, the techs go in thru the right front wheel well. Wheel and inner liner are removed, which exposes the engine front and tensioner access.
 
  #385  
Old 03-30-2010, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by oldMGguy
To do the SIM-11-02-07 tensioner replacement, the techs go in thru the right front wheel well. Wheel and inner liner are removed, which exposes the engine front and tensioner access.
That's a relief. I wouldn't wish that "remove-and-reinstall" on my worst enemy. That Alta FMIC was a real bear.
 
  #386  
Old 04-01-2010, 10:00 AM
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Ok, the MINI's home now with a new tensioner. We'll see if this does the trick.
 
  #387  
Old 04-13-2010, 12:45 AM
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So, will I be LUCKY enough to see this issue? I have an OCT 2009 Build Clubman S.
 
  #388  
Old 04-13-2010, 08:35 AM
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I would rather get the problem at this point then the alternative. I would like to have the replacement tensioner done for the piece of mind. Having a faulty component like that makes me a bit scared every time I am at WOT. I really don't want to have my new mini in for a head job.
 
  #389  
Old 04-13-2010, 11:18 AM
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Want tp pass on a nearly hard learned lesson about the death rattle. At 20K I thought I was OK until one AM I started up with the windows down! With them up, didn't hear it. Dealer repaired and after 5K all is well. If possible, I'd strongly suggest you get into a "windows down" AM start up routine. Especially if you're deaf as a post like me, LoL.
 
  #390  
Old 04-16-2010, 04:25 PM
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Good suggestion Dwight. I had my music up and never heard the noise until it was too late. Solution was a new engine under warranty.Been good ever since.
 
  #391  
Old 04-17-2010, 01:57 PM
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Model: Cooper S manual
Build Date: January 2009
Miles: 14K
Duration: 1 minute
Frequency when it moves a short distance and then sits overnight
RPM range: 1k to 2k
Ambient Temp: 70
Oil: oem

Well, It just happened to me for the first time. I've known about this issue since right after I got the car and I was just waiting for it to happen. Well, it finally did and I called the dealer that same day. Took it in 2 days later. They just called and said they're replacing the tensioner (surprise surprise).
Hopefully it all works out well.
 
  #392  
Old 04-18-2010, 04:24 AM
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Hope this is the correct thread to post this question. When did they start applying the tensioner and timing chain fix at the factory. I have a late November build Clubman S and am wondering if I should be looking out for this. Thanks in advance.
 
  #393  
Old 04-18-2010, 05:24 AM
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According to Motoringfile.com the last fix to this issue was released in January 2010, with it being implemented into production models March of this year.

http://www.motoringfile.com/2010/01/...problem-again/

Take it for what it is, because you're not going to see much of anything "official" on R56 cold start, MINI handles these on a "case-by-case" basis.
 
  #394  
Old 04-19-2010, 09:47 AM
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I need to bring in my clubman S for this fix. What exactly should I be saying / asking for? I want to make sure they will be aware exactly what needs to be fixed and I'm not so sure myself at this point. The temperature is now warm so I doubt it is reproducible so. Hopefully they won't need to hear it first.

Thanks!
 
  #395  
Old 04-19-2010, 11:44 AM
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Where?

Where is the best spot to get a clear sound so I know what I'm looking for. I've seen a few Utube videos but I want to make sure I've got it straight.

Any help is appreciated.
 
  #396  
Old 04-23-2010, 08:01 AM
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Originally Posted by flintdragon
I need to bring in my clubman S for this fix. What exactly should I be saying / asking for? I want to make sure they will be aware exactly what needs to be fixed and I'm not so sure myself at this point. The temperature is now warm so I doubt it is reproducible so. Hopefully they won't need to hear it first.

Thanks!
well crap, they are not going to fix it. Apparently they think the noise is normal (of course they aren't able to reproduce).
 
  #397  
Old 04-23-2010, 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by flintdragon
well crap, they are not going to fix it. Apparently they think the noise is normal (of course they aren't able to reproduce).

In warm climates, the car has to sit at least 12hrs before the death rattle can be heard. Get a mechanic's stethascope ($5) and put the probe on the chain cover. If you hear anything but a steady whirring, the tensioner is going South! Had to force my "dealer" to let mine sit overnight to hear it rattle.
 
  #398  
Old 04-23-2010, 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Dwight Walhood
In warm climates, the car has to sit at least 12hrs before the death rattle can be heard. Get a mechanic's stethascope ($5) and put the probe on the chain cover. If you hear anything but a steady whirring, the tensioner is going South! Had to force my "dealer" to let mine sit overnight to hear it rattle.
I need to bring back the car to get other things fixed (they have to order the parts). They said they will keep the car overnight to see if they can hear anything the next morning. I'm doubtful especially now that it is warmer.

One thing he mentioned was that the noise is just more of an annoyance than anything else. He assured me that if the problem is really there, there wasn't any long term detrimental side effects. Is that true?
 
  #399  
Old 04-23-2010, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by flintdragon
I need to bring back the car to get other things fixed (they have to order the parts). They said they will keep the car overnight to see if they can hear anything the next morning. I'm doubtful especially now that it is warmer.

One thing he mentioned was that the noise is just more of an annoyance than anything else. He assured me that if the problem is really there, there wasn't any long term detrimental side effects. Is that true?

FIND ANOTHER DEALER!!! The only "minor" long term problem is complete engine failure . I think our dealers are related.
 
  #400  
Old 04-27-2010, 12:00 PM
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Model: 2007 Mini Cooper S (R56)
Build Date: ---
Miles: 52,000
Duration: 30 seconds to 1 minute
Frequency: A minimum of three times a month

RPM range: 800 to 1,100
Ambient Temp: mid 60's
Oil: OEM

Any other relevant information:
I had my HPFP and fuel rail replaced at 49,730 and this issue still occurs. It is quite violent during the winter. I almost always start the car with the nose down as my parking spot at home and work are sloped that way.
 


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