What I think the code is - upstream MAP sensor.

The question is has anyone seen these codes & what the fix was?

The car is a 2003 "S" so it has 2 sensors upstream MAP & down stream T-MAP. Both of these have been replaced. Still within 20 minutes the 1239 is back. Sometimes both codes 1239 - 40 which is odd.

This would usually be a leak, more common P107 or P101 which I've seen. I had most of the intake apart & back together = no leaks.

Anyone?

 

al i see in the bible is map low at idle and low upon shutting engine off. resistance in wire? massive hole in a piston lol? very badly bent valve?

 

Nope, none of the above.

I thought it might be a broken or shorted wire NSL. Also thought it might be a broken " the wonderful plastic doda" PITA to replace thinglet, but, no it's good.

 

it's the damn d-9 in your sig; the mini is jealous . i guess you need to verify voltage is getting to dme .
.

 

Thanks herbie.

The voltage looks good, I'll bet there's a bare wire some where, a rub throgh. I have found 2 of those, 1 where the T-MAP rubbed through ( radiator shroud ) & the other was a left rear tail light.
This thing is driving me nuts. I want to get some stuff from RMW but for this problem.

It's a D10, if you need a whole town leveled in a day or less... I thought I might take a trip to Wall Street with it just to demonstrate what it can do, could jump start Cat to a new high.......

 

I don't know if this helps, but I was checking those two codes here at work...

P1239-Secondary Upstream Manifold Air Pressure Sensor Signal Too Low at Engine stop


P1240-Secondary Upstream Manifold Air Pressure Sensor Signal Too Low at Idle Engine Running


Maybe go back to the old school method of spraying carb/brake clean, starting fluid, etc in the general area.

 

Hey Partsman, glad you chimed in. How's going out there?

I'm about as old school as they come, already done the spray trick. I'm going to take it apart again later today.

 

Things are going pretty good, thanks...hopefully with you too.(other than this issue)

I figured you would have tried the spray already...but I thought i'd throw it out there anyway.

Maybe try swapping the sensors' location...they are "supposed" to be the same(with just the front one reading temp) but they are two different part numbers.

 

The sensors are new, installed Saturday. The difference is the extra wire in the harness - plug - T-MAP.

With any luck, I'll know something later today.

 

Did you get two of the same part number?...

...or did you get a "679" for the front on the manifold...and a "648" for the rear at the t-stat housing?

 

They are the same PN 12 14 872 679.

The part I replaced was a 648. I was told that it is the only part & it was compatible with the original piece. And, yes the original pairing was as you said, 679 front, 648 rear. Both parts are "OE" replacement parts..... Experts say so!

Is a 648 available?

Consultant = next after Expert
Expert = next after Jerk
The above run this country, me thinks. I feel for the president.......

 

take it to congress first they're the one's made the banks float all the bad loans . dont you just love new laws? come by my state and do barney's lawn too .

 

Herbie, I think I live in the same state.......

Are we talking higher fees, tolls, taxes, cost of living, insurance - any kind, no jobs state? Oh, I forgot, make the state less attractive for business to
want to come here, state? If so, we both live in the same state.

 

The "648" is available...I have one in stock.
I know you can use either one in either location...but to me, two different part numbers are two different parts.

So, the ones you have are actual MINI parts?

 

I thought the pre-SC was the same response as the Cooper, and the post SC had a different pressure response because of the boost from the blower.

I do know that some who've put the Cooper T-map into an S have had problems....

I'm not looking at any parts tables so I may be blowing out my asssss!

Matt

 

Hmmmm, is right.

The 648 is a cooper part & 679 is an "S" part.

Partsman is the man. They are 2 different parts & need to be ordered as such. cooper & cooper s, makes perfect sense.

Doc, there is a different response. The plug on the T-MAP has an extra wire. I assumed it was the "T" instruction, but, only if the 2 sensors were identical . Even though the sensors look identical I believe they are wired differently bassed on the behavior of this car. A 1239 & 1240 are oppisite codes.

This is clearly an electrical problem.

A little history. A vacuum hose failed that compromised the MAP. Replacing both sensors is kind of a no brainer unless you like living in sensor hell. We have lots of pickup owners out here, most of which have 2 upstream O2 & 1 down, they change 1, the bad 1... sometimes.

What I was told, was, the 2 sensors were the same. Expert advise. So that's what was sent & what I paid for & got.

Ok, Partsman who do I need to visit with the D10 to get the 648?

 

PM me a number where I can reach you tomorrow, and we can work out the details.

 

Steve...did you receive the sensor ok? How is it running now?

 

Hey Partsman, yes I did. I was going to email you an update but I fell off a freeking lader, didn't drive the car for any quality time untill last night & some time today.

Since I have had this car there has been an intermittent flat spot. In May 2005 I took it to the dealer, they said it needed new injectors ( it was still under warranty ). Instead, a Cosworth stock valve head went on with 380s ( not dealer installed ) & still the same problem. The car always run well but for the flat spot. Around that time I found NAM. Read all about the flat spot right here.

I had 1 SEL on the way to Philadelphia 4 years ago but the next day it was gone??????? This last adventure was the last adventure. There was a rub thru on the T-MAP harness ( from the harness that is in the radiator shroud ). Fixed that last Oct. A crack in 1 of the plastic vacuum lines did in the 648 2 weeks ago = 1239. At 1 time there were 7 conflicting codes, all pending, they made no sense at all & no SEL, just a strange flat spot.

Today there is NO flat spot... None. My guess is the plastic vacuum hose was a problem 4 years ago. Fuel mileage around town is down 2mpg but the low end is much stronger. EGT is lower, I need to data log on a trip to see exactly what I'm really looking at. Bottom line, it runs better than new....

Thanks again, I'll look forward to having a beer batter dipped burger, sooner rather than later

 

Holy crap! You fell off a ladder?! Man...hope everything is ok.

Thanks for the update. Glad all is good now.

We'll talk soon...that burger is sounding really good!

 

and get better from the ladder fall! Depending on how tall, those can really eff you up!

On a somewhat related item, I hit a deer a while ago, that severed the T-MAP sensor wiring. The shop that did the repair did a half-asssed job and the T-MAP wiring and thier fix got some surface oxidation and became an intermittant open. What a pain to find, so easy to fix!

Matt

PS, Injectors for a flat spot doesn't sound right to me at all. Injector problem are from un-even flow, poor spray pattern, and less peak flow. These show up at idle (poor pattern with uneven flow) and top end (can't flow enough), not the middle of the RPM band.

 

Everything is ok, thanks to Partsman.
Mechanics gloves don't slide well. A step on the ladder broke, at about 30', almost made it to the ground, sliding the rails, but for the gloves. Body damage was the result of the ladder pummeling the crap out of my leggs. They are a kind of plumb crazzy color right now. This is the kind of stuff that makes you older, should make you wiser.

Doc, flat spot & injectors does not sound right. 1, maybe 2 might screw up, but all at the same time, with a smoothe idle?

 

A family friend died from something similar to what happened to you. Glad it's just bruising.

Really good idles means that the injectors are working pretty well. I don't buy injectors working at idle and top end causing flat spots. I think the service techs that put that forward were just blowing smoke...

 

"A family friend died from something similar to what happened to you. Glad it's just bruising." Sory to hear that. Believe me, on the way down, this is gonna hurt, came to mind. There were 2 safety lines, 1 to secure the ladder. My line slipped.... I did not hit the ground as hard as a couple of jumps I made in the Army, however, I was 41 years younger. The last thing anyone should is, working more than 10' off the ground alone. This May someone was putting a roof an a barn, next town over, sheething it with 1/2" CDX, on a windy day. He was badly injured alone & not able to call for help.

"I think the service techs that put that forward were just blowing smoke..." It does make 1 wonder what they actualy know. When the PS fan went the reservior cracked because the car overheated. I told the tech about the crack. The reservior was not replaced. I had to make another appointment & drive another 100 miles, round trip, to the dealer. So even if you tell them something, you might be talking to potato head.

 

but they seems to be few and far between. There are also many who say whatever comes to mind to get some work or just blow you off. It's sad really...

When I was doing semiconductor production troubleshooting, the guys and gals I worked with loved me because I'd tell them when I could help, and when I couldn't. I'd even send them to people who could help where I didn't get anything from the interaction at all. But the credibility I build meant that they trusted what I said. When I quit my job several of my old customers sought me out to consult just because they trusted my work.

If more service techs were really dedicated to helping solve the problems, and not blowing people off, lots of money would be saved by not doing the wrong thing, lots more made because of repeat business. And people wouldn't talk so much crap about "stealership" service departments.

Matt